West system 207

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Has anyone tried the newer version of this hardener as a base coat or a topcoat? It's supposed to be water clear, is it? Can it be buffed as a topcoat? Any input appreciated. Thanks.
Dave
 

rhncue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Has anyone tried the newer version of this hardener as a base coat or a topcoat? It's supposed to be water clear, is it? Can it be buffed as a topcoat? Any input appreciated. Thanks.
Dave

It's pretty clear when fresh but as with most hardeners, it will get very dark with age. I would imagine that when fresh it does as advertised. I have a large container of hardener that I bought some time ago but had never used. When I decided to try it it was very dark so about a year ago I bought another, smaller can. It is very dark now.

Dick
 

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
Hi,

Here is the data for 207 as of May 2011.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/Product-Data-PDFs/105207-Technical-Data.pdf

The 105 resin has yellow tint to it and must be mixed with the 207.

G5 is clear on both Resin and Hardener. If you recoat G5 within 5 minutes you get a very clear monolithic coat without yellowing and you don't have to sand until all coats are applied.

I apply 4 coats to my cues which builds up .012 and then I sand down about half to get a flat substrate and I don't worry about burning through.

I usually wait 12 to 24 hours before sand depending on humidity. To get a great job your cue, room, and G5 must be over 70 degrees. I usually have the cue and room and 75 to 80 degrees and microwave the G5 to 85 degrees. That seems to be the ideal. If you go too hot on he G5 is sets up too fast.

JMO of coarse,

Rick
 
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Guerra Cues

I build one cue at a time
Silver Member
Has anyone tried the newer version of this hardener as a base coat or a topcoat? It's supposed to be water clear, is it? Can it be buffed as a topcoat? Any input appreciated. Thanks.
Dave

Dave,
I use it for gluing rings, A joint, base coat, etc.
Usually for A joint I use 206 but 207 is not that much different it just dries quicker.
I have a piece of maple that brushed the left over from gluing and the other day I sanded it and buffed it really quick and I was pleasantly surprised. Looks clear. I am going to let it set for a few more months to see how it will turn out, but so far looks good.
 

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Thanks guys for the responses. According to the west system website and all ads, it supposed to have UV protection built in to a degree nowadays and is supposed to stay crystal clear, but I know how that can go. I am currently using the 205 hardener with the 105 resin for construction and have just started to use it as a base coat and have found it to be relatively clear overall. I like the fact that you use the pumps and it all works out, no sticky messes hours or days later to clean up due to a mistake in the ratio.
Rick, I've read many times that the G5 turned yellow, after using as a base coat, you haven't had that happen? Have they changed their product or is there some miss-information out there that I read? I like the idea of applying epoxy every 20 minutes then be done with it rather than applying a layer then waiting 4 hours for the next coat.. etc.
Dave
 

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
Dave,

My CM friend has been using it for 11 years and I have for over 7 years and I have seen no yellowing. I saw a test done by Cue Components where that was said but I think they exposed the material to intense UV light exposure.

Both my friend and I use PPG High Solids Polyurethane that has UV inhibitors built into there formula maybe that is a factor?

I have beta cues that I gave away to my league players since 2004 with white joints and butt caps and I see no change in the hue of the white whatsoever.

Rick
 
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mark smith

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
West System feedback

I have used the 207 for years as a sealer always, a finish coat where the customer wants cheap, and to a far lesser extent as an adhesive. Once cured it can be wet sanded and with practice a fairly decent final finish can be applied, I do this with powder free latex gloves. This is done on replacement shafts where the folks don't want to wait until I have enough work ready to spray. It is a thinner formula with a slower cure time than 205 so this can allow more 'wicking' in to the wood thereby causing glue starvation in critical structure joints. I stopped using the pumps for mixing ratios several years ago due to wasted material, the West System small batch scale is awesome. With it I mix amounts as small as 9/10ths of gram. If memory serves using pump strokes the measured final weight is about 23 grams. The $40 scale has paid for itsself many times over.
 

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
207

I have found that once the hardner turns dark and you use it, the fiinish will turn yellow sooner or later. Otherwise it works fine.

Mario
 

Lexicologist71

Rabid Schuler fanatic
Silver Member
Hi,

Here is the data for 207 as of May 2011.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/Product-Data-PDFs/105207-Technical-Data.pdf

The 105 resin has yellow tint to it and must be mixed with the 207.

G5 is clear on both Resin and Hardener. If you recoat G5 within 5 minutes you get a very clear monolithic coat without yellowing and you don't have to sand until all coats are applied.

I apply 4 coats to my cues which builds up .012 and then I sand down about half to get a flat substrate and I don't worry about burning through.

I usually wait 12 to 24 hours before sand depending on humidity. To get a great job your cue, room, and G5 must be over 70 degrees. I usually have the cue and room and 75 to 80 degrees and microwave the G5 to 85 degrees. That seems to be the ideal. If you go too hot on he G5 is sets up too fast.

JMO of coarse,

Rick

I heated my Cue Cote as well, past 85 degrees. It was runny and had no bubbles, but it cooled very quickly on the cue and ended up too thick to stay flat. I was most unhappy when I had to sand off big crystal clear nipples of epoxy.
 

fishinpoolplay

Registered
west system

hi Dave, the west has a very slight amber in color,i have tried as a sealer not to happy about that. some wood really gas out, so you still have to seal it. i m just working with a daly s product. i can get that in canada,can t get resolute if your state side you can get at cue components my concern right now is how the wood will finish out .dalys say a very slight darking ,they also claim the wood is conditioned . i won t know till i take a couple cuts,reards nick
 
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