Kamui Tip Info Moori and Advise...

MotorCityCue

Motor City cue
Silver Member
Kamui Tips are probably one of the most consistent tips available. The clear models were invented because many installers and regular players were not installing them properly, either using too much glue or waiting too long after applying the glue to the tip, etc... I feel that the "Clear" models might change the feel slightly but not much and are less likely to be glued on incorrectly.

I recommend the Kamui "Black" or "Clear Black" Series but I also stock the "Natural" (Brown)series as well. The SS (Super Soft) feels like a soft and has a lot of grap but will mushroom a few times until it is really broken in, trimmed and re-burnished (a great bar box tip). The S (Soft) feels more like a medium-soft or medium and is my preferred tip of choice and it is a great place to start. It will mushroom a little bit at first but will not mushroom after the tip is broken in, trimmed and re-burnished once or twice. The M (Medium) is a harder tip that has a "click" sound to it and does not really mushroom at all although I would scuff it with a nickel or dime shaper a little more often, as it can glaze over a little more easily like harder tips tend to do. It is definitely a better tip for getting a little more high follow on a shot and for snappier stroke shots, etc

DO NOT USE TIP PRIKS or PORCUPINES or TAPPERS (paddle type) Shooters that use those tools are basically creating more nap to the tip but it all gets smashed down and your tip will disappear more rapidly and you become a cue repairman's best friend. Tip Priks and Tappers also create flat spots on your tip especially when they are used the way many players I see use them (like they are hitting a racquet ball) I recommended scuffers like the "Willard's" or the "Ultimate Tool" types. Depending on the tip and the hardness, one or the other, metal or sandpaper will work better.

Players that overly chalk are just sanding off the tip and over-loading it, which can cause miscuing. Also chalking with well used chalk that is shaped like a large hole will sand your ferrule down, basically putting a nice groove in the middle of it. I also see a lot of players chalking their cues in a straight up position which just "showers" the shaft with chalk causing a blue mess. As we all know most pool table cloth is not cleaned regularly so our bridge hands always turn blue and then we transfer a lot of chalk to the shaft that way.

Note, when you miscue, take a look at your tip and 9 times out of 10, players are not anywhere near the middle or off center of the tip, but at the very edge of the tip. Their are no tips in the industry that won't miscue when you are hitting that far out of the perimeter of the cueball! If you think you need to be that far out on the perimeter of a cue ball to make a shot it is probably just better to play a different shot or a safety instead.

In the past Moori tips from Japan were the premier tip to use. Years ago Mr. Moori stopped sending the tips to the USA. He only sold them in Japan I believe. They are made at his home, not in some factory or something. Just recently I was able to get some new Moori mediums from my distributor. Mr. Moori only sent out "Mediums" recently to the USA. The "Slow (Soft) and "Quick" (Hard) models are not available at this time.

Any other Moori tips sold in the past few years were either older stock or have been counterfeits and that's why Moori has gotten a bad reputation. I HAVE BRAND NEW REAL MOORI MEDIUMS!!!

I sell and install several types of tips, some of which are listed on my repair site: http://www.motorcitycuerepair.com I include a shaft clean-up, seal and wax and am an expert at removing most dents and dings without sanding the crap out of your shaft like most lazy cue repair men do. There are techniques to removing dents and getting the chalk stains out (taking 600 grade paper to your shaft is NOT THE ANSWER! Hope this info has helped
 
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