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HQueen
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10-12-2019, 05:18 AM

Any finish, once cured, has hardly any weight to it at all. While I have never attempted to weigh it, I’d be surprised if was even 1/10th of an ounce. I am open to any correction if someone has hard data.
Besides the obvious difference between oil and a usual auto clear, I wonder if there is a difference in how the cue vibrates when you hit a ball, the wave that travels down the cue that we describe as the “hit” of a cue. I have read that Balabushka used an oil finish. Is that a factor in how his cues hit?
Southwest has their satin/pacifier cues that have an oil finish. Do they play different from their regular cues?
  
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10-12-2019, 09:16 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by HQueen View Post
Any finish, once cured, has hardly any weight to it at all. While I have never attempted to weigh it, I’d be surprised if was even 1/10th of an ounce. I am open to any correction if someone has hard data.
Besides the obvious difference between oil and a usual auto clear, I wonder if there is a difference in how the cue vibrates when you hit a ball, the wave that travels down the cue that we describe as the “hit” of a cue. I have read that Balabushka used an oil finish. Is that a factor in how his cues hit?
Southwest has their satin/pacifier cues that have an oil finish. Do they play different from their regular cues?
If there was a remarkable difference we all be playing with unfinished cues. Makers tend to use what's available at their particular era and ease of application.

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10-12-2019, 02:52 PM

Ease of application doesn’t factor in finishing cues. If it did most would probably use catalyzed lacquer which dries in minutes.
  
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10-12-2019, 04:35 PM

Okay, so now you have all of us laughing, Thank you

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10-12-2019, 06:57 PM

Do you ever have a valid response or just BS? I responded to your post. You say everyone is laughing. You stated ease of application. Lacquer dries in minutes. Totally dry. Sand. Spray again. What is easier than that?
  
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10-13-2019, 04:52 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by HQueen View Post
Do you ever have a valid response or just BS? I responded to your post. You say everyone is laughing. You stated ease of application. Lacquer dries in minutes. Totally dry. Sand. Spray again. What is easier than that?
I got to know a box maker who specialty was lacquer, she would coat 50 times.
(photo downloaded from the web)
I was never invited to her workshop, but I was allowed to peruse the selling area.
Lacquer is Amazing stuff when done right.
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HQueen
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10-13-2019, 07:48 PM

I have a background in the cabinet business. We used lacquer a lot. Easy to spray, dries extremely fast. I tried it on a sneaky pete years ago. I just didn’t like the feel in my hands. Not nearly as durable as other finishes. But it certainly has viable applications.
  
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10-13-2019, 10:44 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by HQueen View Post
I have a background in the cabinet business. We used lacquer a lot. Easy to spray, dries extremely fast. I tried it on a sneaky pete years ago. I just didn’t like the feel in my hands. Not nearly as durable as other finishes. But it certainly has viable applications.
They also turn yellow then orange.

Easiest finish is to NOT spray.
Setting up to spray is a pain in the aahs.

Friction polish is probably the easiest one to apply.
Woodturners' Finish is easy too.

I hate the time and setup needed to spray auto clear, but it's the best .


  
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10-15-2019, 05:24 AM

I have done several oil finished gun stocks it is a LONG process that really does not apply to cues. Reason is the secret to getting the smooth high gloss finish is wet sanding while the oil is wet to create a slurry of oil and saw dust that fills the grain. It takes several of these wet sandings to get the grain filled before you can start adding more thin layers of oil to achieve the smooth finish. That is great on a walnut stock but most cues have a mixture of light and dark woods, veneers, and trim rings that are not wood etc. and that slurry would just make every thing a blotchy mess. Could it be done on a simple cue? Sure but the labor would not make it cost effective. There are short cuts that can produce decent results and that is what you see on most oil finished cues.


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10-15-2019, 05:37 AM

You are correct. My friend the gunsmith I made a cue for explained his process in the same way you explained it. His cue was very simple and his oil finish was incredible.
  
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10-15-2019, 08:03 AM

simplest finish is french polish + some carnauba wax (Tre-wax, e.g.)
It's also more durable than many think, except those that want an automotive finish.
However, the shellac can repaired in short time with minimal effort, any time. The car finish requires strip and re-do.

One caveat - true french polish is quite thin and looks miles deep.
If familiarity is with thick spray finishes, don't make the error of spraying and building up a thickness, which can be chippy.

Lacquer gets sticky and yellows from perspiration and hand oils. Shellac does not. Though alcohol (beverages?) will cut it/mar it.

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10-15-2019, 07:57 PM

As far as auto finishing, you don’t have to strip the finish to refinish, just sand to rough up and then spray it.
  
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10-16-2019, 03:06 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by HQueen View Post
Any finish, once cured, has hardly any weight to it at all. While I have never attempted to weigh it, I’d be surprised if was even 1/10th of an ounce. I am open to any correction if someone has hard data.
Besides the obvious difference between oil and a usual auto clear, I wonder if there is a difference in how the cue vibrates when you hit a ball, the wave that travels down the cue that we describe as the “hit” of a cue. I have read that Balabushka used an oil finish. Is that a factor in how his cues hit?
Southwest has their satin/pacifier cues that have an oil finish. Do they play different from their regular cues?
What's the most common finish on custom made pool cues, and about how many mils/inches thick?

Eddie
  
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10-16-2019, 03:47 PM

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Originally Posted by EddieBme View Post
What's the most common finish on custom made pool cues, and about how many mils/inches thick?

Eddie
Probably epoxy basecoat and auto clear on top.
About .003" to .006".
Production cues most likely have UV or "powdercoat".
They can be much thicker .


  
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In Question of Wood Finish
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In Question of Wood Finish - 10-17-2019, 01:34 AM

I've seen USA McDermott cues from a generation ago where I think there were using a high tech UV? That stuff was like 1/32 thick,LOL.

One of my first customers for something other than a tip or ferrule brought me a new shaft but wanted it to fit a different joint style McD butt where the pin fit nice and "waxy",the first time I had ever felt a fit this nice on a shaft,and the joint was perfectly centered as well,just .016 oversized.

After I resized it,and blended back as nice as I could get it,I still never touched bare wood,the finish was that thick and tough . It looked like it had been cleared again after wet Micro Mesh,unfortunately this was before cell phone pics were a thing.

I also did an experiment where I used a guitar repair technique where I used thin CA glue and drop-filled a spot about the size of a cigarette burn on the butt sleeve and blended it back to where you had to look for it,all without actually touching real wood. Tommy D.


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