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  (#16)
martin35
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11-26-2018, 10:34 AM

The sander I used to shape facing
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bradsh98
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11-26-2018, 01:29 PM

Martin,

It's looking pretty good. However, I recommend that your facings extend to the back of the featherstrip groove. This will make them sit tighter against the pocket, which prevents balls from hitting the exposed wood.

Nice work.


Geoff Bradshaw
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martin35
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11-26-2018, 01:51 PM

Thank you for your comment Geoff, itís nice to get input from the proís. Regarding my facing, do you think adding a piece to extend them could work or should I start over ?

Martin
  
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  (#19)
bradsh98
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11-27-2018, 06:22 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by martin35 View Post
Thank you for your comment Geoff, itís nice to get input from the proís. Regarding my facing, do you think adding a piece to extend them could work or should I start over ?

Martin
I thought about that... If it were me, I would start over.

However, you may be able to add a piece. To do so, it would probably be best to cut the facing a bit further ahead, so that your patch is a larger piece. Also be sure to bond the two pieces of rubber together. Keep in mind, cyanoacrylate adhesive will make the joint very hard. Use neoprene contact cement at the joint, just like you would use to bond the facing to the wood.

It looks like you will have to patch some wood, so that you have a flat, smooth surface for the extended rubber to bond to.


Geoff Bradshaw
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I play with a Hammond Custom Cue. You should too.
  
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martin35
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11-27-2018, 08:02 AM

It looks like you will have to patch some wood, so that you have a flat, smooth surface for the extended rubber to bond to.[/QUOTE]

I think so also because the extensions I've added stop at the end of the featherstrip groove. I think it will be probably better to remove the facing, extend the wood and install new facing. My only worry is to damage the cushion by removing the facing...

Anyway, I think I'll wait until I fit the pocket to see how much of a gap I have between the end of the facing and the beginning of the pocket.

Thanks Geoff

Last edited by martin35; 11-28-2018 at 04:22 PM.
  
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JoeyInCali
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11-27-2018, 02:32 PM

Did you use Diamond black cushions?
I don't think they're a drop-in replacement for Monarch cushions.

4.75" corners will play very generous.
If you are going to replace the facings, I think going with a thicker set so the corner pockets get close 4.5" will be better .
  
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bradsh98
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11-27-2018, 02:53 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyInCali View Post
Did you use Diamond black cushions?
I don't think they're a drop-in replacement for Monarch cushions.

4.75" corners will play very generous.
If you are going to replace the facings, I think going with a thicker set so the corner pockets get close 4.5" will be better .
Note: He did replace the face of the sub-rail, and modified the height and face angle.

It's all a matter of opinion on the pocket size.. I do a lot of 4.75" corners for casual players. 4.5" for serious players.

For me, pocket entry angles ALWAYS stay the same, at 141 degrees. The downward angle may change, depending on the table. Shorter shelves require shallower downward angle. Deeper shelves require a steeper angle. I generally cut all older Brunswick tables (Gold Crown, Anniversary, Etc..) at 12 degrees. I never go less than 10 degrees or more than 14 degrees, on any table.


Geoff Bradshaw
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I play with a Hammond Custom Cue. You should too.

Last edited by bradsh98; 11-27-2018 at 02:55 PM.
  
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martin35
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11-28-2018, 07:59 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by bradsh98 View Post
Note: He did replace the face of the sub-rail, and modified the height and face angle.

It's all a matter of opinion on the pocket size.. I do a lot of 4.75" corners for casual players. 4.5" for serious players.

For me, pocket entry angles ALWAYS stay the same, at 141 degrees. The downward angle may change, depending on the table. Shorter shelves require shallower downward angle. Deeper shelves require a steeper angle. I generally cut all older Brunswick tables (Gold Crown, Anniversary, Etc..) at 12 degrees. I never go less than 10 degrees or more than 14 degrees, on any table.
Geoff

You are right all along.

I redid the subrail nose at 1-11/16 high with a down angle of 23.5deg. I’m ending up with my K55 cushion nose at a hair bellow 1-7/16” and the playing surface is right on 50x100.

Regarding the pocket I think I will like the 4-3/4” opening since I’m really just a casual player and the table is intended for the family and friends.

As for the angles it’s been a tough choice. Since I’m not an expert by any mean and don’t pretend to understand all the subtilties of opening angle, down angle and shelf depth and all their interactions, I’ve tried to take a decision based on various data and opinion found on the forum but I’ve not been able to found a consensus. Since the original Brunswick angle seems to be 142Deg, I kept that that and add some down angle at 14 deg. since it could, I think, probably help. Hopefully I did the right choice.

Thanks for the comments guy

Martin

Last edited by martin35; 11-28-2018 at 08:09 AM.
  
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bradsh98
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11-28-2018, 08:26 AM

I think that you will be just fine with your pocket angles. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.


Geoff Bradshaw
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UPDATE Frame conversion
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martin35
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UPDATE Frame conversion - 02-03-2019, 12:39 PM

After some thought I've decided to modify the frame to make it similar to the original. Not really because it was necessary but more for the fun of doing it.

Here is what I did :

-Glue laminated some 2x10 (roughly)
-Resized my existing frame to match to original dimension (I goof up on the lenght but it's another story)
-Glue and screw everything together
-Add reinforcement block all around
-Widen the cross-members to match the new frame height and add 3 new one
lenghtwise
-Plane the top surface with a rigged-up router sled and a 1-1/2" mortising bit
-Cut the outside edges to final dimensions.
-Sand, paint and seal the top surface.


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Last edited by martin35; 02-05-2019 at 08:36 PM.
  
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Some more pictures
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martin35
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Some more pictures - 02-03-2019, 12:41 PM

Some more pictures

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02-03-2019, 12:46 PM

Next step :

I'm done sanding and removing all the old finish on my rails, sanded and repaint the bottom.

There's a lot of burn mark to get rid of on the top rails . Lot of work to come....

I'll keep you posted.

Martin

PS Sorry but my workshop is a total mess, way too much stuff. It's looking better these days after some clean-up.

Last edited by martin35; 02-05-2019 at 08:39 PM.
  
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02-03-2019, 12:47 PM

Looking solid!
  
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02-03-2019, 12:58 PM

Way to go Martin!!! Happy you decided to restore/ rebuild it. Looking forward to seeing your finished table. It is gonna be special!


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02-03-2019, 03:01 PM

Wow!! Awesome job! I love the jig you made with the router, looks like you effectively made a 50 inch planer/joiner with it. I see you transcribed the serial numbers to the new section with stamps, very classy.

The frame looks wider than a stock Anniversary frame...maybe longer to? I just noticed the cutouts at the side pocket wrap around much further than mine. I hope that doesn't create interference issues, I would imagine the new drop pockets are going to have to be cut quite a bit to accommodate that extra width? I just looked at my table and don't think that would work for mine unless I bored holes all the way through the frame to gain access to the rail bolts. I take it you must have a different setup?

Last edited by Lawnboy77; 02-03-2019 at 03:23 PM. Reason: Just noticed a possible interference issue
  
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