Finish

PocketPooler said:

Im sure this has been brought thousands of times, so I apologize in advance.

Im a few hours away from finishing my first cue, and my teacher uses polyurethane to finish his cues. I do not like the yellowing of poly. I want a clearcoat that isnt overly complicated for my level of building yet that has the clarity of a lacquer with the durability of a poly, or better. Im sure there are plenty of clear polys or the like, but which one(s) do you prefer or what are some pros and cons of some on the market?

Thanks.

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I am pretty new to making cues . and have been using west system 105/ 207 epoxy
There are issues temp controlled room , dust issues and the piece needs to turn for hours .
Getting the bubbles out .

I think allot of cue makers are switching to Solaerz UV finish , I know I am

mortuarymike-nv said:

I am pretty new to making cues . and have been using west system 105/ 207 epoxy
There are issues temp controlled room , dust issues and the piece needs to turn for hours .
Getting the bubbles out .

I think allot of cue makers are switching to Solaerz UV finish , I know I am

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Good luck with that nasty smelling toxic fume.

I`m a novice when it comes to finishing, so I would love to hear from more experienced cue makers.
I have had good success with B.S.I finish cure and U-pol S2085 acrylic clear.
I spray with a A.N.I R150 gun (0.8 nozzle)
I use 3M products for polishing.
A spray booth with good lightin and ventilation, for a dust free enviroment is next on my list.

PocketPooler said:

Im sure this has been brought thousands of times, so I apologize in advance.

Im a few hours away from finishing my first cue, and my teacher uses polyurethane to finish his cues. I do not like the yellowing of poly. I want a clearcoat that isnt overly complicated for my level of building yet that has the clarity of a lacquer with the durability of a poly, or better. Im sure there are plenty of clear polys or the like, but which one(s) do you prefer or what are some pros and cons of some on the market?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Most polyurethane clear coats today have a U/V inhibitor and yellowing is not something you need to worry about.

IMO most people who don't spay on a finish don't want to invest the money in a booth set up with 12" piping, explosion proof fans, multiple spin fixtures with variable DC controllers, temperature controlled environment ect. $ 3500.00 and up.

That being said a few of my friends have started to use Soloraz and like it. It seems to be very good but let's see how the cue looks in a few years. That's how you have to judge a system overall.

There are a ton of procedure details on any clear coat application. Find the one that works for you with your own two eyes looking down the road.

Rick