Boring an internal taper

JC

JC

Coos Cues
I have a desire to bore an internal taper on my handle wood using my taper bar. What I have in mind is to taper the handle section of my full cores and slide the handle wood over the core from the joint end and glue it with titebond 2. .775 at the small end and .795 or so at the big end over 13 inches. Just enough taper to allow the pieces to slide together and the glue to squeeze out with very minimal glue clearance when joined.

So my question is if anyone knows from experience if a 5/8 rod with the aluminum cutting inserts would be ridged enough to accomplish this task. Or would it chatter to death? The longest boring bar I can find 5/8 is 8 inches. Of course they have boring metal in mind not wood. So I would have to build one.

I know a reamer will work but I don't really want to shell out the dough for one.

Thoughts? Other than what is wrong with me? It's something I've been thinking about for a while and really want to try.

Thanks
 
conetip

conetip

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You can make a line bore set up. So the boring bar is feed through a linear ball race, parallel to the lathe bed. You use the carriage to feed the bore bar through the pair of supports. The work piece and work head is on the taper that is required to be bored. As it is supported at both ends, it has less chatter compared to a single over hung bar.
It becomes quite a specialised setup though. The other way is to have a taper slide that is next to the head assembly with the taper bar and supported at each end.
 
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Snooker Theory

Snooker Theory

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
whammo57 said:
you are wasting you time and efforts on something that is no value added................

Kim
Click to expand...

Do you mind sharing how you accomplished this technique, if you haven't tried it, how do you know there is no value in doing it?

I enjoy reading about cue making, not questioning your judgment, just curious as to why. Thanks
 
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JoeyInCali

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
I have a 7" big boring bar with insert.
I use it to step core handles.
It does chatter if you take out a lot of wood.
I power feed a .005-.010" cut for the last pass.
I can only imagine the chatter if you butt it to the taper bar to taper bore.
 
H

HQueen

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
To post #3:

It is his time and efforts. To use as he sees fit.
Seriously, if you have nothing positive to offer then why respond?
 
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JC

JC

Coos Cues
Thanks for the replies, even you Kim.:smile:

I decided only a reamer is going to accomplish what I want on the handle. Just like the one I have for forearms.

Which is to eliminate poly glue from my full core cue and the necessary air space between the wood it requires.

No way this is not better than a poly glue with .006-.008 air space in there. With either titebond or west system.

Expensive but worth the effort IMO. Have to order three reamers minimum to have it made and they last forever so if anyone else see's value in this for your handle hit me up in PM.

Otherwise carry on.

Here is a photo of a tapered forearm mock up with my other reamer showing the glue line with titebond 2. In real practice I put some shallow glue relief rings on the core. This was just a test of the glue line.

010 [1600x1200].jpg


012 [1600x1200].jpg
 
conetip

conetip

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
That is real nice JC.
You know for sure that there is no voids in the layup.
 
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