How would you start this rack?

Dan White

Dan White

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You've made the break ball and here is your layout. Your only shots are the 7 or cutting the 1 into the 7. As long as you don't hit the very left edge of the 7 with the 1, the combo will go. So the combo is slightly lower percentage than if you were just shooting the 1 without the 7 there.

Other notes: the 4 ball passes the 3 and the 1 passes the 9 for the left side pocket. Cutting the 6 in the left corner from the foot rail after hitting the 7 would be a difficult shot because the 2 is in the the way, so it would have to be a sharp cut angle.

What's your choice and why?
 

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Texas Carom Club

Texas Carom Club

9ball did to billiards what hiphop did to america
Silver Member
7 first, soft hit to be just off the rail to either shoot the one down table then the 2 in the same corner as the 7
or after the 7 go after the 6 in the other corner,softer hit
and go from there

I see that 6 cut as no more steep a cut than some break shots

Can even go 1 rail into the 7 for getting on the 6 better
 
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alstl

alstl

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
7 ball - I would go forward one rail off the short rail and try to get on the 4 with 1 as insurance
 
PhilosopherKing

PhilosopherKing

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Besides shooting directly at the 7, what else is there: 1,7 combo and into the stack? 14, 13, 7?

Depending on how the shot and the 4,6, and 1 look while actually at the table, there's a slight chance I'd use inside to open the 13 and14 off the 7.
 
Dan White

Dan White

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thanks for the replies. I think I still like my solution better. :D Let me explain and see if I can change any minds:

This is a tricky rack in that if you don't play the first shot correctly, you might be safe or at best left with a potentially difficult shot on the 1. I want a plan that gives me easy shots and easy back up shots.

Option 1: cut the one combo into the 7 - I would only do this as a last resort because of losing the cue ball and potential for bad clusters to form.

Option 2: pocket the 7 and play position on the 4 with the 1 as a backup. I would play this if I didn't have a better option (Option 3, IMO). The problem is that the 7 is pretty straight in and you need a bit of force follow to get the cue ball up for the 4. Your target range is AT BEST 6 inches between the blocking 2 ball and the blocking cluster. My 1 ball backup might or might not be a backup, or at least a long shot at an angle.

Option 3: (best IMO): Play the 7 with the idea of bumping into the 2. Why bump the 2? If you try to play for the 6 in the corner, it is a severe cut where you will lose the cue ball and send more than one ball up table. If you try to get closer to the 2 to lessen the angle on the 6, you might end up snookering yourself.

By bumping the 2 a good 4 or 6 inches, you open up the 6, 4, or even 3 as your next shot. You would also have either the 2 or the 1 up table as backup if needed.

I think bumping the 2 is also pretty forgiving. If I completely miss the 2 to the right (as we see in the photo) I will end up for the 4 or 1 as in option 2 as worst case. If I miss the 2 to the left, I'll touch the 10/11 and have the 3,4 or 2 to shoot. If I bump the 2 from either side rather than square on I'm still favored to get a simple shot.

Yes, I have some time on my hands today.
 
J

john coloccia

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Curious why everyone tends to go one rail for the 4 instead of drawing off the 7. If I draw off the 7, the cue ball will drift to the right a bit, heading in the "right" direction for a nice shot on the 1 in the side, or even the 6 in the left corner, if I miss my mark on the 4. I think if you go rail first the cue ball will tend to drift towards the pack and you have to be really precise or you're in trouble.

Anyhow, just curious about the shot selection.
 
Texas Carom Club

Texas Carom Club

9ball did to billiards what hiphop did to america
Silver Member
john coloccia said:
Curious why everyone tends to go one rail for the 4 instead of drawing off the 7. If I draw off the 7, the cue ball will drift to the right a bit, heading in the "right" direction for a nice shot on the 1 in the side, or even the 6 in the left corner, if I miss my mark on the 4. I think if you go rail first the cue ball will tend to drift towards the pack and you have to be really precise or you're in trouble.

Anyhow, just curious about the shot selection.
Click to expand...


That's a fine touch to draw into an easy position to put that one in the side, if I wanted those to go there I'd go 1 rail off the 7 to come up on the one ball

Just easier for me the 7 would need to be closer for to feel comfortable enough to draw
 
J

john coloccia

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
beneath_the_sur said:
That's a fine touch to draw into an easy position to put that one in the side, if I wanted those to go there I'd go 1 rail off the 7 to come up on the one ball

Just easier for me the 7 would need to be closer for to feel comfortable enough to draw
Click to expand...

I think if you aim to just nudge the 13 ball full, if you come up short you still have the 4 (which is what you want in the first place), if you come long you still have the 6, and maybe even an easy shot on the 13 in the far corner, and if you're anywhere around where you want you have the 4,6 easily, the 1 with a bit of effort, and maybe even the 3. I think you actually have a pretty big target.

Maybe this is why my high run is only in the 30s...I'm not assessing shots properly.
 
michael4

michael4

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
john coloccia said:
Curious why everyone tends to go one rail for the 4 instead of drawing off the 7. If I draw off the 7, the cue ball will drift to the right a bit, heading in the "right" direction for a nice shot on the 1 in the side, or even the 6 in the left corner, if I miss my mark on the 4. I think if you go rail first the cue ball will tend to drift towards the pack and you have to be really precise or you're in trouble.

Anyhow, just curious about the shot selection.
Click to expand...

^^ this is what I do, leaving the 1 ball for insurance if I dont get the shot I want after drawing back from the 7.

(the 1-7 combo seems crazy to me)
 
JAMSGOLF

JAMSGOLF

Golf & Pool-I'm addicted!
Silver Member
OK, so this is a total newbie player response here (I just started playing straight pool awhile back), but I would shoot the 7 with about 1/2 table draw straight back in order to get shape on the 1. Then I'd shoot the 1 in the same pocket breaking the cluster with the 2 being the next ball to shoot.
 
JAMSGOLF

JAMSGOLF

Golf & Pool-I'm addicted!
Silver Member
JAMSGOLF said:
OK, so this is a total newbie player response here (I just started playing straight pool awhile back), but I would shoot the 7 with about 1/2 table draw straight back in order to get shape on the 1. Then I'd shoot the 1 in the same pocket breaking the cluster with the 2 being the next ball to shoot.
Click to expand...

If I drew too much then the 3 ball is the next one...with top left should break out the cluster from the back side and the 2 would then become my next shot...
 
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J

john coloccia

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
JAMSGOLF said:
OK, so this is a total newbie player response here (I just started playing straight pool awhile back), but I would shoot the 7 with about 1/2 table draw straight back in order to get shape on the 1. Then I'd shoot the 1 in the same pocket breaking the cluster with the 2 being the next ball to shoot.
Click to expand...

You run a real risk of making a complete mess on the top rail. All the balls are going that way, and it's already congested. You're just as likely to tie everything up as you are to separate them...maybe even more so. It's good to clear out that area first, or to go into them towards the center of the table.
 
JAMSGOLF

JAMSGOLF

Golf & Pool-I'm addicted!
Silver Member
john coloccia said:
You run a real risk of making a complete mess on the top rail. All the balls are going that way, and it's already congested. You're just as likely to tie everything up as you are to separate them...maybe even more so. It's good to clear out that area first, or to go into them towards the center of the table.
Click to expand...

JAMSGOLF said:
If I drew too much then the 3 ball is the next one...with top left should break out the cluster from the back side and the 2 would then become my next shot...
Click to expand...

So then you're saying this is the better option?
 
J

john coloccia

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
JAMSGOLF said:
So then you're saying this is the better option?
Click to expand...

With ONLY those two options available? Honestly, I personally don't like either option. I'd probably take the 1 if I absolutely had to, and just deal with the mess from there. The 3 would probably be a better option if it worked, but there's so much that can go wrong that I would look for something else. Most of us want to go after that 4 ball first. :)

The thing is that if you take more difficult and uncertain shots, especially ones that break up clusters, and something goes wrong, even a beginner 14.1 player like me can run a good 10 or 15 balls. Do that 2 or 3 times during a game, and you may as well be spotting me 30 points. Do that against a good player a couple of times, and they'll run out on you.
 
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JAMSGOLF

JAMSGOLF

Golf & Pool-I'm addicted!
Silver Member
john coloccia said:
With ONLY those two options available? Honestly, I personally don't like either option. I'd probably take the 1 if I absolutely had to, and just deal with the mess from there. The 3 would probably be a better option if it worked, but there's so much that can go wrong that I would look for something else. Most of us want to go after that 4 ball first. :)

The thing is that if you take more difficult and uncertain shots, especially ones that break up clusters, and something goes wrong, even a beginner 14.1 player like me can run a good 10 or 15 balls. Do that 2 or 3 times during a game, and you may as well be spotting me 30 points. Do that against a good player a couple of times, and they'll run out on you.
Click to expand...

Dangit! I thought for sure I was starting to think like a straight pool shooter! :embarrassed2:

I see I've still got a long way to go!
 
Bob Jewett

Bob Jewett

AZB Osmium Member
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The cue ball is a diamond past the side pockets, and you are shooting at the 7 on a partial diagonal. Does that change anyone's choice?

Personally, I like option 2. Option 3 is a non-starter for me. Maybe using the bridge after one cushion I'd be lucky to get anywhere close to the right fullness to have anything predictable.

If I get the right angle on the 4, it would be 4, 3, break with the 6 playing position on the 2.
 
Dan White

Dan White

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Bob Jewett said:
The cue ball is a diamond past the side pockets, and you are shooting at the 7 on a partial diagonal. Does that change anyone's choice?
Click to expand...

I'm on the tall side, so the reach didn't enter into my thoughts.

Personally, I like option 2. Option 3 is a non-starter for me. Maybe using the bridge after one cushion I'd be lucky to get anywhere close to the right fullness to have anything predictable.

If I get the right angle on the 4, it would be 4, 3, break with the 6 playing position on the 2.
Click to expand...

re bold. Really? I'm surprised that you don't care for my brilliant choice! :eek: There is plenty of angle to get from the 7 to the 2. Is there anything you think a mistake in my thinking for Option 3? Why is is a non-starter?
 
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