Hello Forum/Guys, :smile:
JM's "Captain" Bob Manzino's LACEWOOD Cue.
Everybody loves the "Captain's " works..
I was very fortunate to have JM ask me for Cue Caps, as,
his MANZINO Cue had a lot of nice design elements.
I did the Lacewood "Scalloped" Panels in A Axis Substitution, because
of the wide width.
I " drew " the panel shape , compensating for the "Across the curve" dimensions and XY Coordinates, and,
made the inlays in A axis ( Rotating).
I make the Lacewood Panel Inlays a bit oversize, from a slightly over size Diameter "Tube/Sleeve".
This is to Insure the Inlay sits "high", over the Cap's Ebony Body.
I then do the test Pockets on another Sleeve/tube.
I also use these test Pockets to see the Panel's Spacing around the circumference.
A "4 Point" indexing Design was too far apart. A "6 Point" indexing was too narrow.
An indexing of 5 Points was used. That is 10 points. :wink:
After I glue in the Panels into the Ebony Body, I turn down the outside diameter and make a collet/sleeve to fit over the body.
This sleeve/collar/collet holds the Main Body and also covers/secures the Lacewood Panels in place from pushing outward.
Now, I can chuck up the Main Ebony Body and machine the inside diameter/bore.
Those Lacewood Panel inlays have the lower sections protruding into the inside bore.
That interrupted cut of those protrusions creates a havoc, and,
increases the shock and the tendency to push the Lacewood Panels outward.
After I machine the bore to a specific Inside Diameter, I make a Ebony Sleeve/Flange, to glue in the Main Body for rigidity,
and to captivate the Panels from the inside. :smile:
Machining the Crown Points is another "adventure".
Can you imagine cracking one of those Spear Points after all that inlay work?
:embarrassed2:
This is not an advertisement.
Some guys might want to know how I do things.
A Axis Substitution is a method that was know way back.
Thank you JM.
Thanks for viewing guys
Alton :smile:
JM's "Captain" Bob Manzino's LACEWOOD Cue.
Everybody loves the "Captain's " works..
I was very fortunate to have JM ask me for Cue Caps, as,
his MANZINO Cue had a lot of nice design elements.
I did the Lacewood "Scalloped" Panels in A Axis Substitution, because
of the wide width.
I " drew " the panel shape , compensating for the "Across the curve" dimensions and XY Coordinates, and,
made the inlays in A axis ( Rotating).
I make the Lacewood Panel Inlays a bit oversize, from a slightly over size Diameter "Tube/Sleeve".
This is to Insure the Inlay sits "high", over the Cap's Ebony Body.
I then do the test Pockets on another Sleeve/tube.
I also use these test Pockets to see the Panel's Spacing around the circumference.
A "4 Point" indexing Design was too far apart. A "6 Point" indexing was too narrow.
An indexing of 5 Points was used. That is 10 points. :wink:
After I glue in the Panels into the Ebony Body, I turn down the outside diameter and make a collet/sleeve to fit over the body.
This sleeve/collar/collet holds the Main Body and also covers/secures the Lacewood Panels in place from pushing outward.
Now, I can chuck up the Main Ebony Body and machine the inside diameter/bore.
Those Lacewood Panel inlays have the lower sections protruding into the inside bore.
That interrupted cut of those protrusions creates a havoc, and,
increases the shock and the tendency to push the Lacewood Panels outward.
After I machine the bore to a specific Inside Diameter, I make a Ebony Sleeve/Flange, to glue in the Main Body for rigidity,
and to captivate the Panels from the inside. :smile:
Machining the Crown Points is another "adventure".
Can you imagine cracking one of those Spear Points after all that inlay work?
:embarrassed2:
This is not an advertisement.
Some guys might want to know how I do things.
A Axis Substitution is a method that was know way back.
Thank you JM.
Thanks for viewing guys
Alton :smile: