Top 10 Secrets of a Good Draw Shot

Patrick Johnson

Fish of the Day
Silver Member
For a 10" bridge length, the cue angle change between max draw and max follow is about 6 degrees
Yes, we often mention that the cue extending over the rail dictates some downward angle, but in fact it's the bridge height (and length) that determines the downward angle because a typical bridge is as high as a rail and closer to the CB.

With a typical bridge height and length (say 2" & 10") the cue has a downward angle of 2° when applying maximum follow. Plus 2-3° of downward squirt makes plenty of downward force to hop the CB on every firm shot.

pj
chgo
 
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chrishogan14

Registered
Samm Diep and I just posted a new video demonstrating the Top 10 tips for improving your draw shot. Actually, most of the advice applies to all shots, but the focus is on how to get good draw. Here it is:


Check it out. The tips (with YouTube time-stamp links) include:

1. Chalk Up (0:40)
2. Aim Low and Carefully (1:28)
3. Warm-Up and Check (2:13)
---- 3a. Eye Pattern (2:36)
4. Keep Cue Level (3:36)
5. Go Back Slow (4:23)
6. Accelerate Smoothly (5:09)
---- 6a. Draw Distance Control (5:52)
7. Keep Your Grip Relaxed (6:48)
8. Be Still (8:52)
9. Don’t Drop Your Elbow (9:20)
10. Finish the Stroke (10:55)

Useful Draw Practice Drills (12:16)
---- side pocket drill (12:19)
---- BU Exam I - F4 - Progressive Practice drill (12:55)
---- Three-times-the-angle "good action" draw drill (13:42)

I look forward to hearing what you guys think about the video.

Enjoy,
Dave
Dr Dave,

First, let me say thanks so much for all the wonderful science driven content that you have created and shared. For a pastime so steeped in anecdotal references, the introduction of true empirical evidence is a breath of fresh air!!

As with your other videos, I enjoyed this one as well.

I would be curious as to your thoughts on the following:

9 of the 10 points seems to deal with the "mechanics" of the stroke, but the first point ("chalking") is a bit more equipment related. Along those lines, I'm wondering if you experimented with cue tip shape as it applies to good application of spin? Might you consider including a well maintained/shaped tip as a component towards a good draw shot?

Again, great video!!!

Chris
 

dr_dave

Instructional Author
Gold Member
Silver Member
Samm Diep and I just posted a new video demonstrating the Top 10 tips for improving your draw shot. Actually, most of the advice applies to all shots, but the focus is on how to get good draw. Here it is:


Check it out. The tips (with YouTube time-stamp links) include:

1. Chalk Up (0:40)
2. Aim Low and Carefully (1:28)
3. Warm-Up and Check (2:13)
---- 3a. Eye Pattern (2:36)
4. Keep Cue Level (3:36)
5. Go Back Slow (4:23)
6. Accelerate Smoothly (5:09)
---- 6a. Draw Distance Control (5:52)
7. Keep Your Grip Relaxed (6:48)
8. Be Still (8:52)
9. Don’t Drop Your Elbow (9:20)
10. Finish the Stroke (10:55)

Useful Draw Practice Drills (12:16)
---- side pocket drill (12:19)
---- BU Exam I - F4 - Progressive Practice drill (12:55)
---- Three-times-the-angle "good action" draw drill (13:42)

I look forward to hearing what you guys think about the video.
Dr Dave,

First, let me say thanks so much for all the wonderful science driven content that you have created and shared. For a pastime so steeped in anecdotal references, the introduction of true empirical evidence is a breath of fresh air!!

As with your other videos, I enjoyed this one as well.
I'm glad to hear it. Thank you.


I would be curious as to your thoughts on the following:

9 of the 10 points seems to deal with the "mechanics" of the stroke, but the first point ("chalking") is a bit more equipment related. Along those lines, I'm wondering if you experimented with cue tip shape as it applies to good application of spin? Might you consider including a well maintained/shaped tip as a component towards a good draw shot?
Good point. This would have been good to include in the video (as part of the first item).

FYI, I have a lot of info and illustrations relating to tip shape here:

tip size and shape resource page

See the excellent illustrations and conclusions on the page quoted from Patrick Johnson. They show and summarize the important points very well.

The tip needs to be round enough to apply maximum draw, but making it rounder doesn't really help. Also, with a less-round tip you need to aim lower to create the same tip contact point on the ball.

Regards,
Dave
 

Pete

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I see a lot of folks say to slightly elevate the butt of the cue. I do that to some degree from time to time.
 

dr_dave

Instructional Author
Gold Member
Silver Member
I see a lot of folks say to slightly elevate the butt of the cue. I do that to some degree from time to time.
Often, with a draw shot, this can't be avoided (especially with a shorter bridge length, or when bridging close to a rail) since you need to get the tip low.

Regards,
Dave
 

Pete

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Often, with a draw shot, this can't be avoided (especially with a shorter bridge length, or when bridging close to a rail) since you need to get the tip low.

Regards,
Dave

Dave can you do a quick video showing the Revo 12.4 taper compared to say a Pro taper?
 

dr_dave

Instructional Author
Gold Member
Silver Member
Dave can you do a quick video showing the Revo 12.4 taper compared to say a Pro taper?
Honestly, I think that would be a fairly boring video. However, there is some info on tapers here:

cue taper resource page

And I just took measurements on my 12.4 Revo. Here they are:

distance from tip: shaft diameter
0 in: 12.4 mm
2 in: 12.5 mm
5 in: 13 mm
10 in: 13.5 mm
15 in: 14 mm

Regards,
Dave
 

buckshotshoey

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm glad to hear it. Thank you.


Good point. This would have been good to include in the video (as part of the first item).

FYI, I have a lot of info and illustrations relating to tip shape here:

tip size and shape resource page

See the excellent illustrations and conclusions on the page quoted from Patrick Johnson. They show and summarize the important points very well.

The tip needs to be round enough to apply maximum draw, but making it rounder doesn't really help. Also, with a less-round tip you need to aim lower to create the same tip contact point on the ball.

Regards,
Dave

I use a 12.7mm shaft. I use a plastic tip shaper that I modified to a "penny" radius. Used a heat gun to make it pliable and formed it full length to a penny. I think it gives the best of both worlds.
 
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