How thick should should a ca finish over epoxy be. Thanks
Ca finish
- Thread starter tomatoetom
- Start date
Thanks. Just one jump but I ddn't' want to spray one butt.
Be sure to use a respirator and long sleeve shirt. Cyano vapors can cause acute respiratory issues and skin allergy. Also, chronic issues such as asthma, reproduction and even cancer.
Cyano is a great place product. And It seems safe in small doses, as used around the house in normal uses. But the amount of fumes from use as a finish, one should take the necessary precautions. Your kids or grandkids will thank you.
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Cyano is a great place product. And It seems safe in small doses, as used around the house in normal uses. But the amount of fumes from use as a finish, one should take the necessary precautions. Your kids or grandkids will thank you.
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As per safety instructions with ALL the chemicals that are used in the average wood working shop! At the risk of sounding not so positive>>> It's chemicals that will end up getting us all in the end, one way or another. 99% of people in this world can not get away from any chemical that is a good chemical.
Answer to the OP's question....In finishing any product with any type of finish, general rule of thumb is thinner is better 99% of the time. I spray 2 part clear as my finish. .001-.0015 thick maximum is my target. Plenty of coating and more than enough to last over years and years of service. I've seen some turned products that have a clear finish just slathered all over it way to thick. Not a good situation.
Why bother with CA if you already have an epoxy coat?
Do one more epoxy coat.
Wet sand it to 1000.
Then do another epoxy coat.
Do one more epoxy coat.
Wet sand it to 1000.
Then do another epoxy coat.
CA is harder than epoxy. Harder = Higher (better) shine
With a little knowledge and a little elbow you can manufacture a super high gloss.
Many guys use it because of the speed of being able to get from bare wood to a high gloss in a matter of just a few hours.
Final cuts before noon...at the hall after supper selling your wares!
You know the old saying...When in doubt pout!....or was that punt?
I don't use a epoxy finish, but i've found Menzerna glosswax 16 and a G quality mop will take away all scratches left after wet sanding to about 1200 grit. Then buff with a finer compound and a WDR type mop.
Thank you all for the replies.. I have some ideas now.
I would stay away from CA finish.
A lot of automotive paint shops can put catalised clear coat in a rattle can with a nice nozzle on them. It will last for a few day to a week before it sets up in the can. Very economical way to get a quality coating. But still need to use proper protection like respirator and gloves.
Thanks Pete I have one near me I think I'll try that.
In case you are not familiar with cat finishes -
Most will do permanent damage to your lungs without good, fresh, active charcoal respirator, some high isocyanates, (urethanes) not even that is not good enough. Air supplied hood is better. You might or might not notice it esp when young, but it will gradually kill you painfully. (without thorough, good protection) For what? a shiny finish?
Also, verify pot life recommended by manufacturer. Most will spray and activate for up to a week. None i know of (admittedly out of the field for some time) has a pot life much longer than 24 hrs. Near the end of the advised life especially hot weather, the finish gets increased risk of seeding up. It starts looking like lint or dirt in the finish, but it is hot spots of catalyzed finish. Once that happens, it's difficult to clear up a finish that will routinely be seen at close quarters. Even if you catch and sand it after the first happenstance, it will need a fresh clear coat over. Continuing to spray the seeded up mix & "hoping" is a fast losing game that will cause a strip & refinish session.
Most cat finishes have a re-coat window where the finish will bond and blend (rather than layer) with earlier coats. If you miss that window, then it is necessary to (usually) wait 24 hours for near full cure of prior coats, to avoid lifting them. If you spray 2 coats (or more) be careful to observe the re-coat window.
Basically get the data sheets on whatever product you will be using, and read them before ordering the material. I had not heard of the rattle can option, but if so, would want to know which solvents and perhaps retarder might be optimal for the expected conditions. Generally with modern finishes you want the least (or none) dilution that will allow spraying, but there will be options of choice based on condition and temp if it is necessary to add them.
Great finishes if you play by strictly by the chemical rules and observe safety procedures.
Good luck!
smt <--------bug spit and polish for me
This. If you're smelling it, it's killing you. Long term effects too.