Tomāto - Tomäto :wink:
Ferrule that is most chalk repelent
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Tomāto - Tomäto :wink:
w0409@aol.com
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Terry Oerfner can provide a ferrule that will not stain!
SnapshotCues.com
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Another vote for ivory. Nothing man-made is even close.
But of course you won't have a low squirt cue with ivory, if that is your preference.
But of course you won't have a low squirt cue with ivory, if that is your preference.
Ivory>Ivor-x>micarta>lbm(the old stuff)
If your chalk ends up with a hole drilled down into it, you are not doing it the way the pros do. And you are probably not getting a smooth, even coat of chalk on your tip. You can figure that pretty much no one at the pool hall knows how to chalk because all the pool hall chalk is drilled. Go to a pro tournament and look at the chalk. No drilling. Maybe there's an important reason for that.
This. If your ferrule is getting chalk on it you are chalking wrong.
MOST ferrules today absorb chalk no matter how you chalk.
If it there's a ring on the ferrule, you're spinning the chalk.
I can tell you I refuse to use the new melamine ferrules because they are pitty.
They are just horrible . They have pits that need filling . But, the will eventually become dirty.
Ivor-X was just like ivory in terms of smoothness and having no weaves and pits.
I have a few feet of rods of it but am not selling them.
I have a few feet of the really older clean Mason Micarta .
I use them as standard ferrules now.
If it there's a ring on the ferrule, you're spinning the chalk.
I can tell you I refuse to use the new melamine ferrules because they are pitty.
They are just horrible . They have pits that need filling . But, the will eventually become dirty.
Ivor-X was just like ivory in terms of smoothness and having no weaves and pits.
I have a few feet of rods of it but am not selling them.
I have a few feet of the really older clean Mason Micarta .
I use them as standard ferrules now.
All ferrules get chalk on them regardless of how you chalk. The problem is that there is are materials that aren’t pure. Voids in the material, how clean of a cut it makes, and other material faults lead to ferrules that require extra steps to keep them looking clean. Ivorine-4, what Schon uses now, requires a sealer to prevent chalk from impregnating the material. Same goes for the new LBM ferrules. The difference is that with good materials, I can lick my fingertip, and wipe my ferrule clean. Bad materials require extensive cleaning/chemicals/methods to keep clean and prevent it from getting dirty. Ivory, Ivor-X, micarta, and most phenolics start clean and stay clean.
Discolored Ferrules Look Awful.....Toothpaste Will Clean The Ferrrules or GO Ivory
Simple........Do Not Rotate The Chalk Or The Cue When Applying.
You just brush the chalk on the cue tip lightly and do it every shot.
The chalk will not cake on your cue tip or flake onto the cloth.....Voila!
If you do this, the chalk wears evenly, you minimize cue shaft blue discolorization.
More importantly, you can pretty much use any chalk and it performs just as good
as any “premium” chalk and there isn’t any difference in chalk brand performance
when you properly chalk your cue tip after every shot which allows you to also set
and manage your pace of play that helps avoid rushing and making a stupid mistake.
Dr. Dave produced empirical information about chalk & concluded there isn’t advantage
any chalk offers over other brands when the player chalks his cue after every shot.
Getting back to the original topic, if you apply chalk correctly, it will last longer and you
will minimize the chalk accumulation on your cue’s ferrule and shaft at the same time.
If you want to eliminate chalk on your ferrules, switch to Ivory or else clean them often.
Matt B.
Simple........Do Not Rotate The Chalk Or The Cue When Applying.
You just brush the chalk on the cue tip lightly and do it every shot.
The chalk will not cake on your cue tip or flake onto the cloth.....Voila!
If you do this, the chalk wears evenly, you minimize cue shaft blue discolorization.
More importantly, you can pretty much use any chalk and it performs just as good
as any “premium” chalk and there isn’t any difference in chalk brand performance
when you properly chalk your cue tip after every shot which allows you to also set
and manage your pace of play that helps avoid rushing and making a stupid mistake.
Dr. Dave produced empirical information about chalk & concluded there isn’t advantage
any chalk offers over other brands when the player chalks his cue after every shot.
Getting back to the original topic, if you apply chalk correctly, it will last longer and you
will minimize the chalk accumulation on your cue’s ferrule and shaft at the same time.
If you want to eliminate chalk on your ferrules, switch to Ivory or else clean them often.
Matt B.
Tereo48
Registered
Snapshot Pro Tungsten Carbide Ferrules are impervious to chalk. They will never scratch or stain. Please visit SnapshotCues.com for more information.
https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/sB8AAOSwJa1ZrADW/$/Snapshot-Pro-Premium-Tungsten-Carbide-Cue-Stick-Ferrule-_1.jpg[/IMG]
https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/sB8AAOSwJa1ZrADW/$/Snapshot-Pro-Premium-Tungsten-Carbide-Cue-Stick-Ferrule-_1.jpg[/IMG]
acrylic, the solid surface stuff
do I recommend?
not necessarily, it's born out of working with which I have, trial and error on different ways of doing things.
Been in play in all this session, cue chalk doesn't stick, leave any residue.
The sights get dirty though, everybody's common issue. :smile:
triangle tip.
I'd and do go along with Matt B on the use of chalk.
do I recommend?
not necessarily, it's born out of working with which I have, trial and error on different ways of doing things.
Been in play in all this session, cue chalk doesn't stick, leave any residue.
The sights get dirty though, everybody's common issue. :smile:
triangle tip.
I'd and do go along with Matt B on the use of chalk.
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Ivor-X is the best man-made ferrule I have found for polishing after the old Cyro/Implex stuff
Ivor-X is/was great. :smile: Contact Kelly Peterson, and give the Tomahawk a try, if you haven't. You might like it.
For me the best ferrule is to go no ferrule now. I've played many years with standard shafts & old school ferrules which came together with my Prather cues. Now I started to learn the cue building ...after building the cue I wanted for myself and having played for a year with it I can say I'm in love with the feeling of my ferrule less shaft. As it was already mentioned the key for keeping it clean is your chalking technique and the right choice of the color of the chalk may help as well. I've also built a few LD shafts using tomahawk material for the customer and my previous playing Prather cue. I was happy with the result too.
. I've played many years with standard shafts & old school ferrules which came together with my Prather cues. Now I started to learn the cue building ...after building the cue I wanted for myself and having played for a year with it I can say I'm in love with the feeling of my ferrule less shaft. As it was already mentioned the key for keeping it clean is your chalking technique and the right choice of the color of the chalk may help as well. I've also built a few LD shafts using tomahawk material for the customer and my previous playing Prather cue. I was happy with the result too.Attachments
I'll second all of what Bavafongoul said, as that is how I have been chalking for a while now. My old shooter has an ivory ferule and no stains but I never was in the habit of drilling the chalk - used more of a rocking motion but now just wipe it across the tip enough to keep it covered.
Regarding eliminating the ferrule, I now essentially have that on my custom shooter and breaker. The shooter has a short brass ferrule and the breaker has titanium. Each is fitted to the outside of the shaft that has been turned down enough for the metal to be a very snug fit with the end of the wood flush with the metal. It makes for a very solid feeling hit, compared to other shafts I have used. That with the fact that the shaft is solid maple does not make it an LD shaft but I've always shot backhand english so have not felt the need for an LD shaft.
As a side note, my local cue maker was asked to replace the tip on a Predator belonging to a local shooter that was a seriously sloppy driller, to the point that the shaft had a groove worn in it.
Regarding eliminating the ferrule, I now essentially have that on my custom shooter and breaker. The shooter has a short brass ferrule and the breaker has titanium. Each is fitted to the outside of the shaft that has been turned down enough for the metal to be a very snug fit with the end of the wood flush with the metal. It makes for a very solid feeling hit, compared to other shafts I have used. That with the fact that the shaft is solid maple does not make it an LD shaft but I've always shot backhand english so have not felt the need for an LD shaft.
As a side note, my local cue maker was asked to replace the tip on a Predator belonging to a local shooter that was a seriously sloppy driller, to the point that the shaft had a groove worn in it.