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How do you Aim Off to compensate for sidespin
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How do you Aim Off to compensate for sidespin - 09-18-2017, 01:54 AM

In many instances, you have to aim off to compensate for sidespin.

In my scenario, you need to cut a half ball on the right hand side of the object ball for the object ball to go into the left hand corner pocket. Due to sidespin, you need to compensate by aiming to cut the ball thinner, let say somewhere between three eighth to one quarter ball.

My questions are:

1. Do you immediately aim at the approximate three eighth to one quarter ball as you place your bridge hand on the table, or
2. Do you look at the point of contact (which is not where you aim since it is point of contact to point of contact) and then shift it slightly to the right and focus on this new point of contact, and then stoop and aim at this new point of contact, or
3. Do you aim at the original point of contact, go down for the shot and then shift your bridge hand by moving it sideways (like crab) to the left and aiming slightly to the right of the object ball, or
4. As in s/no 3, but you pivot your bridge hand at your forefinger and rotate clockwise hence changing your aiming line.


When you watch the pro, you don't see them moving their bridge hand. In some junior world championships, I did see some younger players shifting their bridge hand to compensate for their sidespins.

How do you do it and what do you think is the best method when you have to compensate for sidespin?

For me, I use pivoting and not parallel aiming for my sidespin. I used to aim at the original point and then compensate by shifting my bridge hand (not sure whether I rotate or move sideways). I found it cumbersome and the end results are not ideal. Thereafter, I change to looking at a different point on the object ball from the actual contact point. That works well as long as the new contact point I am focusing on is still on the object ball. Sometimes, the contact point falls out of the object ball and that is when I have a real problem aiming off. Accuracy suffers.

Over the weekend, I tried another method and it works well. What I do is, I shift my "V" by moving my thumb. In the case scenario above, what I do is to move my thumb upwards. That inevitably shift the "V" to the left. Your true line of aim has changed and it is now pointing slightly to the right of the object ball from your original aim.


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Last edited by precisepotting; 09-18-2017 at 02:13 AM.
  
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09-18-2017, 02:43 AM

When I played regular shafts, tuck and roll (BHE).

With LD shafts, its easier for me to just build it into the aiming process.
  
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Side Spin Technique
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336Robin
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Side Spin Technique - 09-18-2017, 02:50 AM

There is a way to do it and a formula for it- for the type of shaft you play with, based on distance and stroke pressure, trust me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by precisepotting View Post
In many instances, you have to aim off to compensate for sidespin.

In my scenario, you need to cut a half ball on the right hand side of the object ball for the object ball to go into the left hand corner pocket. Due to sidespin, you need to compensate by aiming to cut the ball thinner, let say somewhere between three eighth to one quarter ball.

My questions are:

1. Do you immediately aim at the approximate three eighth to one quarter ball as you place your bridge hand on the table, or
2. Do you look at the point of contact (which is not where you aim since it is point of contact to point of contact) and then shift it slightly to the right and focus on this new point of contact, and then stoop and aim at this new point of contact, or
3. Do you aim at the original point of contact, go down for the shot and then shift your bridge hand by moving it sideways (like crab) to the left and aiming slightly to the right of the object ball, or
4. As in s/no 3, but you pivot your bridge hand at your forefinger and rotate clockwise hence changing your aiming line.


When you watch the pro, you don't see them moving their bridge hand. In some junior world championships, I did see some younger players shifting their bridge hand to compensate for their sidespins.

How do you do it and what do you think is the best method when you have to compensate for sidespin?

For me, I use pivoting and not parallel aiming for my sidespin. I used to aim at the original point and then compensate by shifting my bridge hand (not sure whether I rotate or move sideways). I found it cumbersome and the end results are not ideal. Thereafter, I change to looking at a different point on the object ball from the actual contact point. That works well as long as the new contact point I am focusing on is still on the object ball. Sometimes, the contact point falls out of the object ball and that is when I have a real problem aiming off. Accuracy suffers.

Over the weekend, I tried another method and it works well. What I do is, I shift my "V" by moving my thumb. In the case scenario above, what I do is to move my thumb upwards. That inevitably shift the "V" to the left. Your true line of aim has changed and it is now pointing slightly to the right of the object ball from your original aim.


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Last edited by 336Robin; 09-18-2017 at 02:54 AM.
  
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09-18-2017, 05:02 AM

None of that really.

I just visualize the path the cueball needs to take to make the object ball and then shoot it to go down that path. I find my mind is able to visualize that even when putting spin on the ball. I never really aim with my cue like your talking about, just adjust everything until the visualition in my mind seems right. I've found this works best for me and is more accurate than when I try to aim and make some regimented adjustments.
  
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09-18-2017, 06:42 AM

Good lord, how do enjoy this game, thinking about all that crap ??
You have a automated compensating super computer on top of your shoulders. Get in touch with it, and pour gas on all the rest
  
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09-18-2017, 07:10 AM





You just need to practice.

Pool is nothing but repetition and memory.

All the same basic shots come up every game.

Simple game with long sticks and round balls.

The balls only go where you hit them.


Hit balls and watch where they go then adjust.









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09-18-2017, 07:39 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by precisepotting View Post

1. Do you immediately aim at the approximate three eighth to one quarter ball as you place your bridge hand on the table, or
2. Do you look at the point of contact (which is not where you aim since it is point of contact to point of contact) and then shift it slightly to the right and focus on this new point of contact, and then stoop and aim at this new point of contact, or
3. Do you aim at the original point of contact, go down for the shot and then shift your bridge hand by moving it sideways (like crab) to the left and aiming slightly to the right of the object ball, or
4. As in s/no 3, but you pivot your bridge hand at your forefinger and rotate clockwise hence changing your aiming line.
Number 2 sounds like back-hand english, and number 3 sounds like front-hand english (described here). I don't really understand number 4.

I guess I try to use the advice in the article I linked: Front-hand when not as much compensation is required, back-hand when more is required.
  
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09-18-2017, 07:40 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by slide13 View Post
None of that really.

I just visualize the path the cueball needs to take to make the object ball and then shoot it to go down that path. I find my mind is able to visualize that even when putting spin on the ball. I never really aim with my cue like your talking about, just adjust everything until the visualition in my mind seems right. I've found this works best for me and is more accurate than when I try to aim and make some regimented adjustments.
Pretty much what I do ^^^

I read somewhere that when Steve Mizerak was asked how he aimed and if he used a object ball contact point etc, Mizerak said something like, he didn't mess with all that. He just hit the balls and they went in. Like stated before, it's muscle memory. After you've shot a few thousand balls you get the hang of it....... to some degree.
  
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09-18-2017, 07:52 AM

Every cue is different - to include LD shafts. You've got to figure your cue out. Speed, distance, tips of english, and basic quality of your fundamentals all affect your aim.

"Focused" practice when you're breaking in a new cue will help you quickly ascertain how to aim with different types and tips of english, etc.


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09-18-2017, 09:15 AM

Muscle memory.
  
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09-18-2017, 09:23 AM

It is automatic, I think I shoot the ball to the same spot with or without english, meaning I dont do any compensation that I notice. In my mind I shoot the cueball to the exact same spot on the object ball english or not.
Jason
  
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09-18-2017, 09:24 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by precisepotting View Post
In many instances, you have to aim off to compensate for sidespin.

In my scenario, you need to cut a half ball on the right hand side of the object ball for the object ball to go into the left hand corner pocket. Due to sidespin, you need to compensate by aiming to cut the ball thinner, let say somewhere between three eighth to one quarter ball.
Instead of changing your aim, you can change the amount of sidespin;
alternately, you can change the speed (faster means less side spin effect)
and in limited circumstances, change the draw/follow to side relationship.

Finally, you can readdress why you are using so much sidespin, and the trajectory of the CB after contact.

There are many (MANY) options.
  
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09-18-2017, 09:35 AM

Maybe I wrote in a wrong manner. Most do not seem to comprehend my question.

In essence, when and if you need to compensate for sidespin, do you compensate before you go down or after you go down for your shot.
  
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09-18-2017, 09:52 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by precisepotting View Post
Maybe I wrote in a wrong manner. Most do not seem to comprehend my question.

In essence, when and if you need to compensate for sidespin, do you compensate before you go down or after you go down for your shot.
A little of both, sometimes but not others. It's all based on when you do it though.
  
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09-18-2017, 09:55 AM

Before the shot that way I have one, and only one body allignment with respect to the cue ball. The idea that someone can get down on the ball and then change the plane of their cue and still be able to troubleshoot their misses is something I can't comprehend.
  
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