Would Cork be good???
Please read the thread?
Should anyone bother to reply, given the fact you are showing you aren't reading?
Would Cork be good???
Please read the thread?
Should anyone bother to reply, given the fact you are showing you aren't reading?
"I know leather isn't for me since it will mush and look like a dead snake in a few weeks.
So either it's linen wrap or wrapless, but I can't determine which one will be the best option for a guy who sweats in the palm a lot.
My style of playing is that I hold the cue butt firm, kind of tightly when I shoot.
I am going to order a meucci and it got the option to have it coated = wrapless. Or just request a linen wrap instead, so I need help."
I'm sorry that I somehow offended you by my adding a question to this.
I did read this but was asking about an option not mentioned, figuring some of the experts (perhaps like you sir) might know about it (I believe Cork is also a "type" or wrap for cues I'd heard).
Your response reminds me of one by Mr. Lufrigno (or whatever his name screenname is)...
Whatever cue you like....wrap a layer of blue painter's (masking) tape over the wrap. Seriously.
You'll thank me later. You're welcome.
"I know leather isn't for me since it will mush and look like a dead snake in a few weeks.
So either it's linen wrap or wrapless, but I can't determine which one will be the best option for a guy who sweats in the palm a lot.
My style of playing is that I hold the cue butt firm, kind of tightly when I shoot.
I am going to order a meucci and it got the option to have it coated = wrapless. Or just request a linen wrap instead, so I need help."
I'm sorry that I somehow offended you by my adding a question to this.
I did read this but was asking about an option not mentioned, figuring some of the experts (perhaps like you sir) might know about it (I believe Cork is also a "type" or wrap for cues I'd heard).
Your response reminds me of one by Mr. Lufrigno (or whatever his name screenname is)...
Whatever cue you like....wrap a layer of blue painter's (masking) tape over the wrap. Seriously.
You'll thank me later. You're welcome.
GF was in Tulsa yrs ago and asked me to go to hardware store for electrical tape. He covered the wrap of his Scruggs with it. Funny you mentioned him.Gary flannery?
Is that your REAL name?
Linen will provide you a far better grip for your sweaty hand issues, but will also break down quick and need to be re-wrapped regularly, depending on how much you play and how much you sweat. A wrapless will require no maintenance ever.I know leather isn't for me since it will mush and look like a dead snake in a few weeks.
So either it's linen wrap or wrapless, but I can't determine which one will be the best option for a guy who sweats in the palm a lot.
My style of playing is that I hold the cue butt firm, kind of tightly when I shoot.
I am going to order a meucci and it got the option to have it coated = wrapless. Or just request a linen wrap instead, so I need help.
Oil rubbed is my favorite too, but current lacquers are nice, given their refinement over the years. Thin, light and really pop the color changes under them
A friend of mine got Drysol from the doctor and hasn't had sweaty hands since. Said its the greatest thing ever.
Do you treat the oil rubbed finish every so often? If so, with something like walnut oil or carnauba wax?
I have used tung oil successfully on many shafts. A quality tung oil will leave a clear finish that is slick and very resistant to dirt, chalk and moisture. Tung oil, as most know, is most commonly used to treat teak trim on sailboats.
As for applying, be sure to clean and smooth the shaft, but do not burnish. Apply a very thin coat of tung oil (be sure it's pure tung oil and not something that includes polymers, say, tung oil plus polyurethane). Be sure to apply a thin coat. Too thick a coat will be must more difficult to rub off.
Allow the coating to dry at least a couple of hours, or better, overnight. Next, take a cotton rag and start rubbing. Tung oil is difficult to remove, so plan on expending some elbow grease.
But once you get the excess rubbed off, and polish the resulting finish, the shaft will become remarkably slick and the finish is very hard, very durable. The worst thing is, for a week or so, is the surface will be so hard and smooth, it will be slightly tacky until it get microscopically roughed up. I found using talc solved that pretty well.
The shaft will require minimal maintenence. All I've ever done since applying the finish is dampen a rag, wipe down the shaft, burnish and play. The shaft will be resistant to bluing.
I still have 4-5 shafts I have treated 20+ years ago and I've never done anything else to them. There is some yellowing, probably more than natural aging, but it's pretty slight and looks fine. It is not a strong yellow like linseed oil.
Be aware, tung oil in its liquid state is poisonous. Once it dries, that's not an issue.
I'm currently using Mike Gulyassy's "Shaft Freeze" for my new shafts. Mike lives close by, so it's easy for me to get him to treat my shafts. I would say Shaft Freeze does what tung oil does (clean, slick surface and protects the wood). I don't see much advantage one way or the other. But given that I am a lazy sort, it's worth $30 to pay Mike to do it.
I'd think it does need to be redone occasionally and obviously, frequency would vary with use characteristics.
I believe it is tung oil that is used.
Sorry to not have more qualified input, but you are getting this from a user...Yuknow?
https://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=296749