Where to use wood based on grain structure?
- Thread starter Mike81
- Start date
The worst thing you can do aesthetically. Curly amplifies the wide grain and ,imo, looks horrible. Nothing says quality build better than a quality foundation.
Scrap the wide grain and always use tight, straight grain in every piece of wood in your cue.
PS This goes for Ivory too
Scrap the wide grain and always use tight, straight grain in every piece of wood in your cue.
PS This goes for Ivory too
Coring solves the problem of using your curly maple. It can be used as a front, handle, or butt sleeve. If you like it, any quality cue maker can utilize the curly.
Thanks. I figured coring was the answer. If used as a handle without coring how does it would it change the overall dynamic of the cue? I’m assuming it’s less dense cause of the lack of growth rings. So would it hit like crap even if it’s used as a handle ?
You want it cored as a handle too.
Depending on the forearm weight, you can even use purpleheart or rosewood core for the handle.
JC
Coos Cues
What rosewood do you use for cores?
Not to be a stickler, but Bolivian "rosewood" is not a true rosewood, either. I know you are aware of that, but not everyone is.
Give it a sweet name and they will buy it.
This is not automatic.
Sometimes young fast growing hardwood is actually denser.
Some OG, mellow material is not so dense.
But well selected OG will probably be more stable.
The wide grain stuff is "often" less so.
If you like the look, intelligent coring can help both ways. (increase stability, change mass & apparent density.
If you are making cues, try it. We all learn from failed experiments, and sometimes we are surprised and the experiment is a success.
smt
you are totally over thinking it............... you ... nor anyone else would ever notice a different feel of the cue..................
Kim
So, a stabilized spalted maple front will not benefit from a purpleheart core in regards to hit?