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QuicSlick Shaft Maint. System - Billiard Engineering
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QuicSlick Shaft Maint. System - Billiard Engineering - 02-13-2018, 02:45 PM

I am an owner of Billiard Engineering. I am looking for 2 honest reviews of our QuicSlick Shaft Maintenance System and will send one free to the first 2 people to email me (keith@billiardengineering.com) with their name and address. All I ask is an honest review in this forum.

Here are 2 links to two other reviews:

1. http://billiardproductreviews.com/2017/05/25/qiucslick/

2. On page 36: http://www.sneakypetemafia.com/sneak...a-magazine-12/
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headmuses
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02-25-2018, 09:22 PM

QuicSlick Shaft Maintenance System Evaluation

Step 1: Wipe down shaft with denatured alcohol and a clean paper towel to remove chalk dust and hand oils and sweat. (Paper towel had a lot of blue/black residue, I am assuming chalk and oils and dirt)

Step2: Rub down shaft with Mr. Clean original magic erasers to pull dirt out of the shaft. (Eraser had lots of blue and black color on it after the first pass)

Step 3: Repeat Steps 1 & 2 until Magic Eraser is no longer picking up dirt or chalk. (It took three passes of step 1 & 2 for the eraser to come away pretty much clean on the shaft I was testing)

Step 4: Use QuicSlick Blue Film up and down the shaft while rotating the shaft until full coverage has been obtained. (After one pass of ten full shaft length strokes the Blue Film was loaded up with a white very fine powdery residue. (I am assuming this is a very fine film of shaft wood dust sanded away)

Step5: Use QuicSlick Green Film up and down the shaft the same amount as the blue film. (After one pass of the same ten full shaft lengths, I noticed there was a minimal amount of white very fine powdery residue. You could still make out the BE Logo on the film. AND the shaft was very noticeably smoother and slicker)

Step 6: Use QuicSlick Yellow Film repeating the up and down and rotating movements as before.( After one pass of the same ten full shaft lengths …Oh my God!!!!! The shaft was better than brand new…This is a rock hard maple shaft made by Dan Dishaw, I am serious, it is smooth as glass, and there is hardly any residue on the Yellow Film.)


Summary: I think many out there are very uneasy of using any kind of abrasive product on their pool cue shafts, so am I. But seriously folks…this product takes off the barest minimum of shaft material possible properly and evenly, and you end up with a result of a shaft that is better than new. If you follow the instructions properly, and you prepare your cue shaft with a little pre-cleaning, you will find the results very satisfying. I am not associated in any way with Billiard Engineering, I just answered to the offer to try the product and evaluate it. I for one would say yes to this product, it is very well thought out, well made; the film holder it comes with is just what you need to apply the proper even pressure when using the films. Great product LtColombo.

AZ Member Headmuses
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Last edited by headmuses; 02-26-2018 at 06:08 AM. Reason: Cleaned up spacing issue from my posting.
  
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02-25-2018, 09:31 PM

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02-26-2018, 12:13 AM

Thanks for the comprehensive review

Seems a lot like the Nicks edge microfilms, just with the tube added to around the paper I like the edge so I'm sure these work just as great.
  
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02-26-2018, 06:11 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimmo H. View Post
Thanks for the comprehensive review

Seems a lot like the Nicks edge microfilms, just with the tube added to around the paper I like the edge so I'm sure these work just as great.
The tube gives you even coverage and pressure while using the micro films. This gives you a smooth finish all around.
  
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02-26-2018, 11:45 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by headmuses View Post
The tube gives you even coverage and pressure while using the micro films. This gives you a smooth finish all around.
I bet we've all seen some guy's shaft that is shaped like an hourglass after so many time using his hands
to run sandpaper down it. The natural tendency is to squeeze your hand just as the sandpaper leaves
the ferrule and hit the top of the shaft, and this makes it an hourglass shape.

A tool like yours should reduce that effect, I'd think. But the grain of your paper is probably not rough
enough to matter one way or the other. What do you think?



Jeff Livingston
  
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02-26-2018, 01:41 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by chefjeff View Post
I bet we've all seen some guy's shaft that is shaped like an hourglass after so many time using his hands
to run sandpaper down it. The natural tendency is to squeeze your hand just as the sandpaper leaves
the ferrule and hit the top of the shaft, and this makes it an hourglass shape.

A tool like yours should reduce that effect, I'd think. But the grain of your paper is probably not rough
enough to matter one way or the other. What do you think?



Jeff Livingston
The rubber tube holds the film evenly, so when you place the shaft onto it, the film is wrapped around the shaft, and the rubber is held in your hand. You apply the amount of pressure you desire. When I used the blue film, I held it very lightly so as not to take off too much by accident. I barely put pressure on it while going up and down and rotating the shaft. I did pretty much the same for the green film but added slightly more pressure. The yellow film was where I applied the most pressure and got a very smooth glass like finish. The tool gives the film the support so you get even pressure at all times. I really think you wont get the "hourglass" shape you described. Thanks for the input. I am going to do all of my playing shafts tonight.

Cheers

Headmuses.
  
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02-26-2018, 01:43 PM

Jeff,

Once you go thru the 3 grits the first time, there shouldn't be any need to use any of the films other than to burnish the shaft with the yellow (super fine) film. You can even use a magic eraser to get the chalk off and then just burnish again with the yellow to get that glass smooth feel.

While it is true that even a little off the shaft over a long time is still a lot, the question becomes how little? The yellow is so fine it would take a very very long time to start to see any reduction in shaft diameter if just using the yellow.

We provide the other two grits because we have no idea how rough the shaft is when the QuicSlick is initially used.

LtColombo
  
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03-02-2018, 09:02 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by LtColombo View Post
Jeff,

Once you go thru the 3 grits the first time, there shouldn't be any need to use any of the films other than to burnish the shaft with the yellow (super fine) film. You can even use a magic eraser to get the chalk off and then just burnish again with the yellow to get that glass smooth feel.

While it is true that even a little off the shaft over a long time is still a lot, the question becomes how little? The yellow is so fine it would take a very very long time to start to see any reduction in shaft diameter if just using the yellow.

We provide the other two grits because we have no idea how rough the shaft is when the QuicSlick is initially used.

LtColombo
After a long night of league play, I got home, wiped my playing shaft down with a little denatured alcohol, a quick rub down with a Magic Eraser, then a few light passes with the yellow film, resulted in the smooth glass like finish with no noticeable buildup on the yellow film. I agree over a very long time you would probably start to see some reduction in diameter, but judging by what was left on the yellow film after doing this only a second time, this will take a very long time.

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03-02-2018, 09:48 AM

You may not even need the alcohol or the magic eraser. I carry a cloth towel that I dry my hands with when I use the restroom. I'll take the damp towel and wipe the shaft before & after each night's play. If the towel is too damp you can re-burnish with the burnishing block and yellow film. I know from many wipes with the towel how wet is too wet. I play 3 nights a week and find myself only needing to re-burnish no more than once every couple of months.
  
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