Could something like this work for a pool slate?
How would you use it if the slate is screwed to the frame of the table, and the table is assembled?
My question would be the same ask RKC's but RKC do you think in theory and with further development especially in how you would attach the slate to the aluminum profile it could work and reliably so?
I've seen the Rasson 9ft, the newest one, and the leveling system is only useful when setting the table up, not after it's been fully assembled. And since you like to point out things, then on the same table, point out that the rail design is a disaster, and after about 3-5 recoveries you're going to be screwed recovering the rails.
I haven't seen one of these yet, so I can't comment on the design.
The intended design of this leveling system is to allow for adjustments throughout the life of the table. Whether it works in practice, I don't know. But, that is the intent, according to the company's literature.
Look at where the levelers are. Picture where the rail bolts are, then picture the 3 piece slate, and where the levelers are in relation to the slate seams. Now picture this exact same leveling system on any GC. Picture the slate screws holding the slate seams in place, and all the slate screws mounting the slate to the frame, then picture the heads of the slate mounting screws/bolts covered with cloth, and rails bolted on. How is it going to work to adjust the level of the slate 6 months down the road once the table has acclimated to its environment, and needs to be fine tuned for level....again. That is the very reason there's so many GC's out of level around the country in pool rooms and homes. No seems to want to relieve the slates during the recovery because it takes extra time, and most don't know how to correctly level the slates in the first place. Would it blow your mind if I told you 99% of the so called table mechanics in this country can't even use the Diamond leveling system correctly? Hell, they can't even use the Brunswick leveling system correctly, which is why they still use wedges instead of the leveling system. And as far as that goes, you can't even come back on the GC4, 5, or 6 and use the leveling system without taking the table apart so you can ack of on the mounting screws....and you CAN'T level the slates without being able to back off on the slate seam screws first....which requires taking the tables apart, and pulling up the bed cloth.
But these tables are not Gold Crowns... They are Rasson tables. I'm not sure why you are making a comparison. The design seems fairly clever, in that the slate screw threads into a sliding block. There is an adjuster on the bottom side. It seems that you should be able to make the adjustments from the bottom side of the table, without a need to access the slate screw.
The OP asked if this design could be used on pool table slate. I'm not sure why he would ask, as this is the exact design that is used on select Rasson pool tables. I just figured that he was trolling, so I posted the link to the Rasson page.
I'm not looking to argue with you. I really don't care. I've not yet worked on a Rasson Victory table, and likely won't get the opportunity. I live in an area where Brunswick Gold Crown I's and Olhausen residential tables are in abundance.
Ok, I understand that, but just a though here. When you level the seams of the slate, do you only shim one side of the slate to make the seam flat, or if needed, do you shim both sides of the seam until its flat and level? How many leveling points are at the seam of the slate with the pictured leveling system?