DRO upgrade

Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
So I finally, after about 6 years of having the parts, got around to installing a DRO on my drum sander. No more guessing how much to turn it. Had to make a couple of brackets, but overall pretty easy to install. The display has magnets on the back to hold it to the sander frame.
Dave
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cueman

cueman

AzB Gold Member
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Silver Member
That looks pretty cool. If I used mine more I might add something like that to it.
 
JC

JC

Coos Cues
Dave38 said:
I actually will be using mine more now that I can use it accurately. The DRO price is cheap....https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-12-LCD-D...hash=item5683427836:m:m_hZgd228lvU48pePSp657A
It takes some time to make the bracket and drill/tap some holes but I would say about 3 hours start to finish the most.
Dave
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I bought an i gauging DRO for my jet lathe from E bay and spent a good chunk of time installing it and getting it just perfect. Man it worked good, until..............I turned on my router mounted to the tool post. The vibrations scrambled the slide and it lost track of where it was.

Threw it in the garbage and bought a well used travadial. Should have done that in the first place. No comparison whatsoever even if the router hadn't messed with it.

Your mileage may vary if you don't vibrate the thing just wrong.

JC
 
str8eight

str8eight

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
JC said:
I bought an i gauging DRO for my jet lathe from E bay and spent a good chunk of time installing it and getting it just perfect. Man it worked good, until..............I turned on my router mounted to the tool post. The vibrations scrambled the slide and it lost track of where it was.

Threw it in the garbage and bought a well used travadial. Should have done that in the first place. No comparison whatsoever even if the router hadn't messed with it.

Your mileage may vary if you don't vibrate the thing just wrong.

JC
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That's unfortunate you had problems with yours. I have two installed on my lathe and an earthquake wouldn't move them.

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BarenbruggeCues

BarenbruggeCues

Unregistered User
Silver Member
JC said:
I bought an i gauging DRO for my jet lathe from E bay and spent a good chunk of time installing it and getting it just perfect. Man it worked good, until..............I turned on my router mounted to the tool post. The vibrations scrambled the slide and it lost track of where it was.

Threw it in the garbage and bought a well used travadial. Should have done that in the first place. No comparison whatsoever even if the router hadn't messed with it.

Your mileage may vary if you don't vibrate the thing just wrong.

JC
Click to expand...

Go dig it out and I'll send you my address.
The plug going into the readout was loose and probably did not have a proper connection.
I had to make an adjustment to mine and it now works fine...router running full tilt with the lathe running at the same time also. ;)
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Michael Webb said:
Looks nice Dave.
What do you use the drum sander for?
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Basically anything that needs to be accurately made flat, so point wood, inlay stuff for rings etc. Plus any other project I may get involved with

As far as the IGAGE brand, so far they work well, have a 3ft one on my deluxe cuesmith.
dro deluxe.jpg
 
Michael Webb

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Dave38 said:
Basically anything that needs to be accurately made flat, so point wood, inlay stuff for rings etc. Plus any other project I may get involved with

As far as the IGAGE brand, so far they work well, have a 3ft one on my deluxe cuesmith
Click to expand...

Nice. I always wondered about drum sanders but chose to get a jointer.
 
Dave38

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
I have used a jointer, but found it to be a pain to keep the fence squared to the table, and it liked to chatter when doing hardwoods, a pain to re-sharped, or replace blades, not to mention more dangerous to operate. Plus my shop is small and it got cramped having both pieces of machinery. I currently use my CNC to square up 2 sides, then drum sand the 2 opposite sides and then a quick pass on the first 2 sides to remove any marks from the CNC cutting.
Dave
 
Michael Webb

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Dave38 said:
I have used a jointer, but found it to be a pain to keep the fence squared to the table, and it liked to chatter when doing hardwoods, a pain to re-sharped, or replace blades, not to mention more dangerous to operate. Plus my shop is small and it got cramped having both pieces of machinery. I currently use my CNC to square up 2 sides, then drum sand the 2 opposite sides and then a quick pass on the first 2 sides to remove any marks from the CNC cutting.
Dave
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Yes Sir;
Jointers using knives are a real pain in the pooper to align.
Thanks Dave
 
S

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It's possible to have both in one machine. :)

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Power feed swings out of the way to use as a hand feed jointer with fence.

Bottom line, though, jointers and jointer-like machines are designed to make one surface dead flat (when set up and dialed in correctly); not necessarily 2 surfaces parallel. Then the work goes into some sort of planer, widebelt sander, or other surfacer to make the second side parallel with the first.

Thanks for the IGage info - was not familiar with them. Have been interested in getting less than machine tool price DRO for my shaft profiler. Unfortunately IGage list the longer versions as being "out of stock" :frown: Also, ideally, I'd like 40" - 42" which is the top rail capacity on my machine (for other uses) so if there are other inexpensive/reasonably accurate options, would be glad to hear.

smt
 
Michael Webb

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Ssonerai said:
It's possible to have both in one machine. :)

smt_bentarch7.jpg


smt_bentarch6.jpg


Power feed swings out of the way to use as a hand feed jointer with fence.

Bottom line, though, jointers and jointer-like machines are designed to make one surface dead flat (when set up and dialed in correctly); not necessarily 2 surfaces parallel. Then the work goes into some sort of planer, widebelt sander, or other surfacer to make the second side parallel with the first.

Thanks for the IGage info - was not familiar with them. Have been interested in getting less than machine tool price DRO for my shaft profiler. Unfortunately IGage list the longer versions as being "out of stock" :frown: Also, ideally, I'd like 40" - 42" which is the top rail capacity on my machine (for other uses) so if there are other inexpensive/reasonably accurate options, would be glad to hear.

smt
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That's a sexy machine. I use my jointer for 2 things. That's it. Points and veneers. I added a shelix head. Best thing I ever did.
 
S

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It's for shooting on the table behind you! :eek::D

Obviously still a slow learner on the cue making front with this level of rejects. :eek:
smt
 
str8eight

str8eight

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Why not use a table saw to do all of it?
Dave38 said:
I have used a jointer, but found it to be a pain to keep the fence squared to the table, and it liked to chatter when doing hardwoods, a pain to re-sharped, or replace blades, not to mention more dangerous to operate. Plus my shop is small and it got cramped having both pieces of machinery. I currently use my CNC to square up 2 sides, then drum sand the 2 opposite sides and then a quick pass on the first 2 sides to remove any marks from the CNC cutting.
Dave
Click to expand...

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