Finishing my first cue and I need some opinions. The cue is 60” long and has a balance point of 19 7/8 from the butt end. First question, is this a good balance point? Secondly, It’s a little heavier than I wanted at 19.5 ounces I was shooting for 19 or a hair less. Should I drill a small hole in the end, maybe 1/2 diameter by a couple inches deep, to remove weight or is that a bad idea to leave a void in it? Or just leave it alone and get used to the 19.5 ounces. Thanks guys!
Weight removal and balance
- Thread starter Mike81
- Start date
Several ways to attack it......
I'd start at the other end with pin selection and lighten it that way.
It'll also move your balance point back closer to 19 which IMO would be closer in the range you're looking for.
Balance point is a suggestive argument tho......
I'd start at the other end with pin selection and lighten it that way.
It'll also move your balance point back closer to 19 which IMO would be closer in the range you're looking for.
Balance point is a suggestive argument tho......
the reason I used brass and not g-10 was because when I initially cut the threads in the shaft, like a dumbass I used an n drill and it wandered slightly at the beginning of the hole. So I had to bore the hole straight. Removed just enough to get the bore true but opened it up to around .312 and after that the screws I had were a little on the loosed side and I can’t stand a loose fitting joint. So I machined my own screw with a slightly bigger minor diameter. Will it cause any difference in the hit of the cue drilling a hole that deep in the butt? Thanks again guys
I have drilled 3/8 11 SS screw that weigh less than an ounce for this purpose.
Drilled brass would be too soft.
You can redo that hole.
Plug it up with a 1/2 13 phenolic and install screw again.
Drilled brass would be too soft.
You can redo that hole.
Plug it up with a 1/2 13 phenolic and install screw again.
Good point Mario!Sometimes you have to give up the idea of perfection and adjust to as close as you can get
Mario( whos' brain needs adjustment)
I may do just that if I can’t get used to the weight. Brass is soft, that is why I only drilled 3/4 deep on both ends. Still full thickness at the possible stress points. Would using the phenolic insert change the way the cue feels?
I doubt a world champion can even tell the screw is encased in phenolic.
Sometimes you have to give up the idea of perfection and adjust to as close as you can get
Mario( whos' brain needs adjustment)
Next cue...........
This thought crossed my mind because i could add wieght I bathe future if needed.
That equates to approximately 19.2 balance point for a 58" cue. That is rather forward balanced. Woods with light weight woods and a largish metal bolt in the butt are often 18" balance point. 18.5"-18.75" is fairly neutral. 19" is forward balanced.
Perceptions can vary based on where the hand grip is, and where weight spikes are in the cue.
Thank you!
If you didn't wax the threads or otherwise contaminate it yet.....
Put it back dead centered in the lathe, and squirt a healthy slug of the cheap, thin super glue in, use a wood splint to make sure it goes all the way to the bottom of the hole. The glue should be put in after the cue is in the lathe and aligned, so as not to have the glue setting on one side while that task is completed and indicated.
Put a plastic container on the toolslide that can surround the end of the cue, or put a plastic sheet/apron on the lathe and up the wall, stand clear, and turn the lathe on to a moderate speed. Just let it run for 15 mins or so, it takes a largish slug of cyano a while to harden. However long you let it run, i still would not touch it for an hour. Check with a splint if the glue near the bottom is hard or still gooey.
Verify the shaft is as centered as you expect, take a skim cut to bore it on center, and tap it again using wax. Live tapping is possible, but riskier unless you are dead confident of picking up the original lead.
So far i only use G10 pins, & do this on most of my shafts, just for the extra wear resistance. Might be superstition, might be useful.
smt
Thank you for the tip, I actually did this exact thing and ran the tap through and it helped quite a bit. The pin was still a hair loose so I just decided on machining a screw. I do believe it will help the wood threads resist wear longer as you stated as they seem to have nice coating on themIf you didn't wax the threads or otherwise contaminate it yet.....
Put it back dead centered in the lathe, and squirt a healthy slug of the cheap, thin super glue in, use a wood splint to make sure it goes all the way to the bottom of the hole. The glue should be put in after the cue is in the lathe and aligned, so as not to have the glue setting on one side while that task is completed and indicated.
Put a plastic container on the toolslide that can surround the end of the cue, or put a plastic sheet/apron on the lathe and up the wall, stand clear, and turn the lathe on to a moderate speed. Just let it run for 15 mins or so, it takes a largish slug of cyano a while to harden. However long you let it run, i still would not touch it for an hour. Check with a splint if the glue near the bottom is hard or still gooey.
Verify the shaft is as centered as you expect, take a skim cut to bore it on center, and tap it again using wax. Live tapping is possible, but riskier unless you are dead confident of picking up the original lead.
So far i only use G10 pins, & do this on most of my shafts, just for the extra wear resistance. Might be superstition, might be useful.
smt
One more thing... if I remove weight by drilling a 1/2 hole by 6 inches deep like Chris suggested to get down to 19 ounces, obviously that will move the balance point forward more than it already is, which is 19 7/8 from the end, will that be to much forward balance? I guess my question is would I be sacrificing playability for a half ounce of weight. I know it’s personal preference but what do you pro cue makers suggest on this? Thanks again!!!!