feather stripping

SlateMate

Banned
ok, my poplar feather stripping came today but it's just a tiny bit too big. what's the easiest way to uniformly sand it to fit? should i just use a sanding block and do it by hand or is there an easier way?
 

kid

billiard mechanic
Silver Member
Planer


Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant AzBilliards Forums
 

trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
ok, my poplar feather stripping came today but it's just a tiny bit too big. what's the easiest way to uniformly sand it to fit? should i just use a sanding block and do it by hand or is there an easier way?

Curious where you got poplar ones, I have been looking for them. I can only find Basswood. Please post up a link, I would like to buy some. Thanks

Trent from Toledo
 

SlateMate

Banned
i got them at pooldawg.com. they are 1/4" which is what i thought i needed. i might just go with the rubber strips instead of buying a planer.
 

trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
not sure where it says they are poplar, did you inquire about them to the site? I already have 20 sets of basswood ones from Muellers, would like to know for sure they are poplar. Thanks

Trent from Toledo
 

JC

Coos Cues
You will spend far less time making your own than trying to reduce those.

I zip them out on my table saw in about 5 minutes give or take. Use scrap wood to test the size and when the width is right just rip them out. A couple rubs end to end to slightly round the edges with some 400 grit and you're ready.

Lots of different softwoods work well, doesn't have to be poplar.

Do not use rubber!!! It sucks eggs!!!

JC
 

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
what's the easiest way to uniformly <reduce> it to fit

The absolute easiest most uniform method is a razor sharp Stanley 60-1/2 block plane with the iron set for about a .002 cut, and the throat set tight to prevent tear-out when it encounters gnarly grain.

Just take a perfectly uniform pass on a flat surface, end to end, and the reduction is predictable and almost effortless.

OTOH I've been sharpening and using handplanes for millwork installation for 45 years. Nonetheless, it's an easy skill to learn. The hard part is learning to sharpen.

To the guy looking for poplar - heartwood(green)/sapwood(white) mixed? All same size? +/- .00x" spec @ 8%MC ? How many sets at a time? It's not easy to make straight strips - there's a fair amount of waste. But poplar is easy to work. Also, why is poplar better than basswood for the app? (I'm not a table tech)

smt
 

SlateMate

Banned
I zip them out on my table saw in about 5 minutes give or take.
yeah, i need a table saw....
what i did was sand them down on my belt sander by dragging the entire length while using uniform pressure at the sanding point. it worked very well. i have done two rails and the cloth is nice and snug. if i have a thin spot, i'll put a staple in the middle of the strip like i saw a guy do on a youtube video.
 

trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
The absolute easiest most uniform method is a razor sharp Stanley 60-1/2 block plane with the iron set for about a .002 cut, and the throat set tight to prevent tear-out when it encounters gnarly grain.

Just take a perfectly uniform pass on a flat surface, end to end, and the reduction is predictable and almost effortless.

OTOH I've been sharpening and using handplanes for millwork installation for 45 years. Nonetheless, it's an easy skill to learn. The hard part is learning to sharpen.

To the guy looking for poplar - heartwood(green)/sapwood(white) mixed? All same size? +/- .00x" spec @ 8%MC ? How many sets at a time? It's not easy to make straight strips - there's a fair amount of waste. But poplar is easy to work. Also, why is poplar better than basswood for the app? (I'm not a table tech)

smt

I would buy half dozen sets to start. I use the basswood ones with no problem, but, I have been told by a handful of good mechanics that the poplar ones are the best, they dont break when you pull them out? Always willing to try new things and not one site that sells them has poplar ones. I suspect the pool dawg ones are basswood until I saw some sort of proof they were poplar. You gonna make me some? :)

Trent from Toledo
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
ok, my poplar feather stripping came today but it's just a tiny bit too big. what's the easiest way to uniformly sand it to fit? should i just use a sanding block and do it by hand or is there an easier way?

Hand held block plane, only take off a paper thickness per pass, shave the wood with grain, not against it.
 

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You gonna make me some?

I'll give it some thought and send a PM next time i'm working poplar.
Not sure i would consider it less delicate than basswood, though. I think with any of these soft hardwoods, the type or grain used would make more difference than the actual species of wood.

smt
 

trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
I'll give it some thought and send a PM next time i'm working poplar.
Not sure i would consider it less delicate than basswood, though. I think with any of these soft hardwoods, the type or grain used would make more difference than the actual species of wood.

smt


I appreciate it, thanks !

Trent from Toledo

p.s. The rounded bottoms makes me wonder how they are made?
 

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
p.s. The rounded bottoms makes me wonder how they are made?

Must be a shaper op. (I did not register that on the example i saw on Slate's link, will have to look at some more).

On high volume (thousands of feet) these would probably be run in a small 4 or 5 head moulder. On small volume ( hundreds of ft) they would probably be run on BS, TS, + shaper or planer for sizing, maybe widebelt sander for finish width, depending what tolerances need held. In a shaper sizing op, a rounding head/knife could just be substituted for a square cutter.

Do you have a link to the product you prefer?

smt
 

trentfromtoledo

8onthebreaktoledo
Silver Member
Must be a shaper op. (I did not register that on the example i saw on Slate's link, will have to look at some more).

On high volume (thousands of feet) these would probably be run in a small 4 or 5 head moulder. On small volume ( hundreds of ft) they would probably be run on BS, TS, + shaper or planer for sizing, maybe widebelt sander for finish width, depending what tolerances need held. In a shaper sizing op, a rounding head/knife could just be substituted for a square cutter.

Do you have a link to the product you prefer?

smt

No I dont. The ones that used to come factory on brunswicks have a very defined rounded bottom.

The ones I have from Muellers have tapered sides and semi rounded bottoms. Hope this helps and I appreciate your time.

Trent from Toledo
 
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