Refelt or get a new table?
- Thread starter crobwin
- Start date
Does anyone have any recommendations? I can re-felt it myself but will it eventually wear down like this again if I use Simonis HC? What is special about HC? I was looking for a new diamond pro but people say to stick to this table and get it done right. If it's new bumpers and the shims were added what else could have caused this by normal playing? I should have kept the old bumpers. 
If KingCobra can't help you, then you can always ship the rails to Mark Gregory or JZMechanix
That table does look a little tired, you can go wrong with a Diamond. Keep your eyes open for a used one and then jump on it. New is better if you have the money
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perfectpocketz
Banned
Does anyone have any recommendations? I can re-felt it myself but will it eventually wear down like this again if I use Simonis HC? What is special about HC? I was looking for a new diamond pro but people say to stick to this table and get it done right. If it's new bumpers and the shims were added what else could have caused this by normal playing? I should have kept the old bumpers.
If your wanting the rails done the right way...ship them to me and the table will play better then any you can buy.
People offering rail work on AZ will just patch over the same shit job you already have for less money.
Glen can do what I do with rails....but I'm going to do some things different.
I'll cut the rail liner off where the Formica meets the cloth.....and build a new liner with my specs.....remember.....I'm the one that started cutting the linnners off and changing the cushion specs for better playability.
I'm sorry to say this....but this is what has had me pissed for the last 6 yrs....listening to guys tell everyone how great they are at rail work....and then see the kind of work I see people send back to the customers.
I've had so many calls after the fact of them sending the rails to this guy or that guy....and say I knew I should have spent a little more and sent them to you.
Then its to late....the customers not going to spend the money again....so he lives with what he's got....or sells the table.
And trust me....don't listen to all the PM bullsshit....that's just a the way to land a job they can't do right.
Sorry...don't men to go off....but it really gets me hot....all the customers want is a great playing table and believe the guy telling them bullshit....a lot of knowledge goes into making rails play a certain way....the right way...not just have the ball bouce.
All the mechanics are the same....just trying to make what they can.....I won't even call them mechanics...more like guys trying to work on a pool table.
Everything I've said is true.....I've seen it....heard about it.....or played on it.
Putting a cloth on a table is one thing......building rails that play great is a completely different job.
Good luck with your table....I've never in my life seen corners that bad.
Mark Gregory
The cushion height might be a factor. Looks like the balls were striking higher up on the rail. I agree with a previous poster - the facings were probably too hard and/or installed at the wrong angle.
A new set of balls, which are regularly polished may help prevent this in the future as well.
Just my .02 cents.
A new set of balls, which are regularly polished may help prevent this in the future as well.
Just my .02 cents.
Steve Leistikow is a reputable mechanic in SoCal and he can do a great job on your rails. His handle on this site is Tablemechanic. I recommend sending him a PM. Just beware, if the other "mechanic" did not extend the subrails, you may need new rubber to achieve the tighter pockets you desire.
How old is the cloth? Looks like it is well worn not only on the facings
Sent from my iPhone using AzBilliards Forums
Sent from my iPhone using AzBilliards Forums
Your best bet is to send your rails to Mark Gregory at Perfectpocketz. You will get the best rails that money can buy, no question about it. If you try to save money and the table gets butchered again you end up spending way more money than if you just had Mark do the rails the first time. He may charge a little more but you get a lot more bang for your buck when Mark does your rails. Having Mark do your rails will also increase the value of your table should you ever decide to sell it.
Mark does great work, no doubt but Steve is not a hack and will do the job correctly. He's done the rails on my table and a few friend's tables. All play great with correct pocket angles and rail height. You could have Mark do the rails and undoubtedly have perfect playing rails or you can use Steve and have a very good set of rails that play the way they should minus the SoCal to Georgia and back freight.
You Crack me up you country pumpkin....LOL
perfectpocketz
Banned
Just how do I crack you up.....cause I'm the best rail guy in the country.
Maybe because I know rail work better than anyone offering it on AZ
I just never marketed myself as good as you....or maybe they would think I was a better mechanic than you.....witch I am without a doubt.
Your good at what you do...and your the BOSS.....just remember you may be the Boss on AZ.....but I'm the BOSS of BOSSES.
With love
Mark Gregory
You seem to forget how you got your calibration numbers from, as well as what tooling was required to get you there, but that's ok....you're almost as OLD as I am, so I understand your memories not being as accurate today....as when you was learning some things from me
...LOL
You also seem to forget that if it wasn't for me teaching you how to calibrate the bevel on the front of your rails with the rails BOLTED to the slate....you'd still be cutting the cushion bevel on a table saw.....OLD memories....LMAO....but go a head on, tell it like YOU remember it, but I do give you credit, you do know how to work on rails pretty damn good today, not just pay a little more attention to your cloth work....and you'll be a 100% there buddy....LMAO
If you're a better table mechanic than I am, you should have no problem answering this question. Coming straight down from the finish of the rail at the back of the feather strip Dado, if you drew a line on the bottom of the rail to match the finish line on the top of the rail....how far behind that line is the centering of the rail bolt hole to line up the rails with the Brunswick bolt hole pattern on the slate...because where that rail bolt hole determines how far in or out the rails sit on the slate....so?