Best Ferrule, and Uniloc arbor Question

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Yeah, but I don't have a power feed...hand job for now! DOH!!

I haven't delved into machine threading yet (correct term??)



Don't need a power feed to tap with a hand tap. I would recommend one Of Chris Hightower's videos. One of his videos shows how to use the tail stock with the tap mounted. Again difficulty may vary depending on Your lathe, and type of tail stock.
 
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Vyc

╭∩╮(︶︿&#650
Silver Member
Don't need a power feed to tap with a hand tap. I would recommend one Of Chris Hightower's videos. One of his videos shows how to use the tail stock with the tap mounted. Again difficulty may vary depending on Your lathe, and type of tail stock.

Hmmm...I have the first 3 of his DVD's...I only remember him doing "usable" threads on tenons with a hand tap. I must've missed it.
 

Cue Crazy

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hmmm...I have the first 3 of his DVD's...I only remember him doing "usable" threads on tenons with a hand tap. I must've missed it.

Been a long time since I watched them, so It's possible that I'm mistaken, but sure seemed like I saw one with him tapping forearms. I remember him talking about how It really pumps the forearms up.

Yeah, The tenon threader does male threads not female. Similar in the way It works though the tap would be mounted in the tail stock of his lathe with the set/lock down screw on It set to let the tap draw into the piece as You turn the headstock. You can do It By letting the whole tail stock slide with the tap too, but I prefer to let the quill of the tail stock (thing thing that the drill chuck mounts to) move, and I just reset/reposition the tail stock before it maxes out and tears the threads out. I do the same when backing the tap out. I prefer to turn the work piece by hand instead of powering the lathe for this operation. Much safer, and easier to control IMO.

If for some reason You back the tap all the way out and need to restart It. Turning the work piece in the opposite direction with very very lite pressure until You feel the tap drop into the threads, helps to get It lined back up, and restart the tap without chewing up or ripping the current threads out. This is all with a Hightower or Taig tail stock. A little more difficult to do what I explain with a heavy tail stock on a metal lathe, because the quill on the tail stock does not usually slide freely, most are fed by turning a handle on the back. It can still be done though. Just that I would use a different method on the metal lathe.
 

Vyc

╭∩╮(︶︿&#650
Silver Member
Been a long time since I watched them, so It's possible that I'm mistaken, but sure seemed like I saw one with him tapping forearms. I remember him talking about how It really pumps the forearms up.

Yeah, The tenon threader does male threads not female. Similar in the way It works though the tap would be mounted in the tail stock of his lathe with the set/lock down screw on It set to let the tap draw into the piece as You turn the headstock. You can do It By letting the whole tail stock slide with the tap too, but I prefer to let the quill of the tail stock (thing thing that the drill chuck mounts to) move, and I just reset/reposition the tail stock before it maxes out and tears the threads out. I do the same when backing the tap out. I prefer to turn the work piece by hand instead of powering the lathe for this operation. Much safer, and easier to control IMO.

If for some reason You back the tap all the way out and need to restart It. Turning the work piece in the opposite direction with very very lite pressure until You feel the tap drop into the threads, helps to get It lined back up, and restart the tap without chewing up or ripping the current threads out. This is all with a Hightower or Taig tail stock. A little more difficult to do what I explain with a heavy tail stock on a metal lathe, because the quill on the tail stock does not usually slide freely, most are fed by turning a handle on the back. It can still be done though. Just that I would use a different method on the metal lathe.

Thanks for this explanation....I'm gonna have to dig up my DVD's and experiment with this...I know I'm gonna need to be able do this
 

Vyc

╭∩╮(︶︿&#650
Silver Member
Update

Here's a pic of the piloted delrin sleeve I made for the DIY Uniloc arbor. It's working out well. I had an extra 3/8-10 arbor, but I don't have a 3/8-10 tap so I made the hole slightly smaller than the pin, and just slowly screwed it in back and forth (tapping it) until it went in all the way. I'll see how long this lasts before I buy a real one.
 

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john coloccia

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The original Uni-Loc set I bought from Atlas is made of Stainless Steel and Brass.

I don't know if this is considered something good or bad, but I slipped a sleeve with a little pilot hole over a customer's 3/8-10 lathe pin to where only a thread or so stuck out past the ferrule sleeve and it would spin the Uni-Loc shaft he brought in just fine.

This must be someone's lucky post as it is number 7777 for me.

Just wanted to bump this. A friend wanted me to recondition his shaft and fix his tip just before selling a cue. I really wanted to do it on my new lathe since it does such a better job than I can do by hand, but I didn't have a Uniloc pin yet (have one on order...just not in house yet).

I lucked on this post, took a couple of minutes to whip one up and it worked perfectly. Yeah, the thread's not a perfect fit, but it was good enough just for this. I didn't bother tapping mine. If I'd read down a few more posts before running off to make one, I would have seen Vyc's and done it like that. :)

Thanks, Chris!!
 
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whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
I made a universal driver ............. chuck up a piece of 3/4 delrin or wood dowel and turn a 3/4 inch long pin on the end. Make the diameter of the pin so it just fits in the shaft, Drop a rubber O ring on the pin.

Put the shaft on it and put a pressure on the tip with the tail stock to compress the O ring. It will drive the shaft for cleaning and what ever............. easy and quick to make different sizes if you need to..........

Kim
 
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