Trimming down turning block for jump cue butt

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Phil Ballard

PhilEB
I bought a dried quilted maple turning block to be sent to a cue builder to have a Jump cue handle made. The piece is 12.25 x 2.5 x2.75 so I know will need to be trimmed down to to a thinner piece before being turned to the final size by a cue builder.. I have read about this on AZB in the past but can't find the thread.

Could some one tell me the ideal amount to be cut off each side each pass before drying and cutting again. I live in California where it is usually pretty dry so how much dry/wait time should I allow between passes. Also is 1.5 inches square the best finish width for a cue maker to work with for turning down on a lathe.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Phil
 
Mcues

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Phil Ballard said:
I bought a dried quilted maple turning block to be sent to a cue builder to have a Jump cue handle made. The piece is 12.25 x 2.5 x2.75 so I know will need to be trimmed down to to a thinner piece before being turned to the final size by a cue builder.. I have read about this on AZB in the past but can't find the thread.

Could some one tell me the ideal amount to be cut off each side each pass before drying and cutting again. I live in California where it is usually pretty dry so how much dry/wait time should I allow between passes. Also is 1.5 inches square the best finish width for a cue maker to work with for turning down on a lathe.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Phil
Click to expand...

Cut the piece down to a 1 1/2 " square and give it to your cuemaker.

Mario
 
S

Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'd ask the Cue maker.
Unless you are very comfortable reading wood.
It is possible that one side, one corner, or even a center cut would yield the best blank.
Sometimes even a diagonal cut to avoid inclusions on one corner, that are opposite of a knot or deffects on an diagonal opposite corner. These are extremes, but if you have "extra" material, then think of how any succeeding cuts will improve the actual blank.

Unless you want to saw clear veneers or material of a given size off one side for other use & inlays. Then you have to think about optimizing both.

smt
 
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Phil Ballard

PhilEB
Regarding the HW core, do you feel that the quilted Maple likely will warp or is it your fear the the wood is too light to use for a jumping cue butt?
 
Last edited:
JoeyInCali

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
It's going to be a jump handle.
They are like 1 1/8 at the bottom plus a knob.
It has to be lightweight.
You can cut your piece down to 1 3/8 square .
Your make will drill it and core it.
He can use maple or balsa even.
 
GBCues

GBCues

Damn, still .002 TIR!
Gold Member
Silver Member
I'm sure your cuemaker has the ability to trim down blanks to the size that is best for him to continue. He also probably has a better eye for which sides to trim from experience. The trimmed out pieces can be used for points or inlays or returned to you, if that is what you want.
 
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Phil Ballard

PhilEB
JoeyInCali said:
It's going to be a jump handle.
They are like 1 1/8 at the bottom plus a knob.
It has to be lightweight.
You can cut your piece down to 1 3/8 square .
Your make will drill it and core it.
He can use maple or balsa even.
Click to expand...
My cue maker told me that since it is a jump handle it won't need to be cored. He knows it is quilted maple but has not seen the piece yet. Should I be concerned?

I live it Camarillo and go to the OC a lot. Do you do custom cues?
 
JoeyInCali

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
Phil Ballard said:
My cue maker told me that since it is a jump handle it won't need to be cored. He knows it is quilted maple but has not seen the piece yet. Should I be concerned?

I live it Camarillo and go to the OC a lot. Do you do custom cues?
Click to expand...

Should you be concerned? No. If it moves too much after he turns it round, he'll know what to do .

Yes. Not jump cues though.
 
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