You mean Rudolf Walter Wanderone Jr., the fake fats, or the character in The Hustler?
Oiling cue tip
- Thread starter michaelsu51216
- Start date
Oh for fooks sake.
Google petroleum products on leather.
Don’t do it. Just because someone swears by it does not make it a good thing to do. Petroleum products on leather is a bad idea.
There are stupid motherfuggers who shoot WD40 into their joints to cure arthritis. There are also those who inject silicone into their dicks to make them bigger.
They all swear by it. Right up until they don’t. :thumbup:
Google petroleum products on leather.
Don’t do it. Just because someone swears by it does not make it a good thing to do. Petroleum products on leather is a bad idea.
There are stupid motherfuggers who shoot WD40 into their joints to cure arthritis. There are also those who inject silicone into their dicks to make them bigger.
They all swear by it. Right up until they don’t. :thumbup:
"Oil" doesn't mean just petroleum. Could be vegetable oil, animal oil etc. You think your skin oil is petroleum based? Ha, stop drinking the STP!
In this thread, sewing machine oil (HawaiianEye has talked about this before), WD40 etc have been discussed.
They are petroleum based.
If you want to act like you know what you are talking about, you might want to actually know first, before your mouth gets ahead of reality.
I'll say I know what I'm talking about.
I've done it hundreds of times on my Le Pro tips and it didn't screw up the tips. I've used sewing machine oil, vegetable oil, and baby oil. I've never done it on my new laminated tips...never needed to.
Nobody is soaking the tip in oil over night or saturating the tip. It's putting a drop of oil on it.
Believe what you want to be believe or do what you want to do. I've put it on a tip and then played with the tip not too long afterward. I just made sure the first layer of chalk was really thick. After a few minutes of shooting, everything was fine.
I know reality.
Don't talk about something if you've never done it.
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I dont need to jump off a bridge to know its a stupid thing to do.
Dont tout dumb/superstitious bullshit as if its the best/right thing to do. Just because Alfie Taylors brother thought it was a good idea, does not mean that it is.
Out of the many thousands if not millions of LePro tips that have been used over the years, how many people have ever put a drop or 2 of sewing machine oil on theirs? How many people have even heard of it? Other than people who are easily influenced and/or readily believe bullshitters? I would say not many.
If it was a worthwhile thing to do, dont ya think it would have caught on better by now?
I have worked with leather for a long time, decades. You dont put a petroleum based oil on leather. It deteriorates it over time.
So yeah..... youre spouting bullshit, whether you actually do this or not. You dont know what you are talking about.
Actually Natural Petroleum Jelly Does Work For Ball Mitts & Gloves
Natural petroleum jelly is recommended for use by Nokona Ball Gloves.
Nokona baseball and softball gloves are made in Nocona, Texas. The
Company has been making premium leather baseball gloves since 1934.
I have bought a dozen Nokona gloves over the past 30 years and have
treated every glove using a natural petroleum jelly based product for
literally decades. The gloves have not cracked or dried out in any way
and remain firm in the fingers with a soft palm pocket and web. This
Includes gloves and mitts and all I can say is Nokona says to use it and
it works terrific mutually preserving and protecting my kids equipment.
My son also has several Rawlings Pro Preferred gloves and mitts and
the same thing was done on those resulting in absolutely great results.
Now cue tips are an entirely different matter. Tips do not require being
periodically lubricated to maintain or improve the tip. Nope, it just needs
to be shaped and properly chalked in addition to replacement when the
leather has become worn low. Now that’s a much better question to pose
than using oil on a cue tip. Oil? Absolutely not but when do you replace a
cue tip? How low is too low? What happens to the stroke when the tip is
worn down too low? How important does the hardness become when the
tip starts getting near time to replace it? I’d think a softer tip would play or
last longer than the same tip if it was hard. What’ya you think aside from
the question about applying oil to you cue’s tip or soaking/treating the tip
before installation. It is leather that was intended to be dry & hard to start
with so let it be and pay attention to taking care of it as previously explained.
Natural petroleum jelly is recommended for use by Nokona Ball Gloves.
Nokona baseball and softball gloves are made in Nocona, Texas. The
Company has been making premium leather baseball gloves since 1934.
I have bought a dozen Nokona gloves over the past 30 years and have
treated every glove using a natural petroleum jelly based product for
literally decades. The gloves have not cracked or dried out in any way
and remain firm in the fingers with a soft palm pocket and web. This
Includes gloves and mitts and all I can say is Nokona says to use it and
it works terrific mutually preserving and protecting my kids equipment.
My son also has several Rawlings Pro Preferred gloves and mitts and
the same thing was done on those resulting in absolutely great results.
Now cue tips are an entirely different matter. Tips do not require being
periodically lubricated to maintain or improve the tip. Nope, it just needs
to be shaped and properly chalked in addition to replacement when the
leather has become worn low. Now that’s a much better question to pose
than using oil on a cue tip. Oil? Absolutely not but when do you replace a
cue tip? How low is too low? What happens to the stroke when the tip is
worn down too low? How important does the hardness become when the
tip starts getting near time to replace it? I’d think a softer tip would play or
last longer than the same tip if it was hard. What’ya you think aside from
the question about applying oil to you cue’s tip or soaking/treating the tip
before installation. It is leather that was intended to be dry & hard to start
with so let it be and pay attention to taking care of it as previously explained.
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Petroleum jelly, is not petroleum oil. There is a huge difference, in use and in chemical composition.
https://pecard.com/is-petrolatum-safe-for-leather/
BTW, neatsfoot oil, or even olive oil is better than vaseline on a ball glove.
This isnt about what a tip needs. A tip doesnt NEED a damn thing, oil or otherwise.
No, this is about a well known players brother saying he does something, and someone else repeating it ad nauseum as if it were gospel.
Kinda like the old Mutt and Jeff thing.... One lies, and the other one swears to it.
LMAO.
If you've never tried it, you're just talking out your ass.
I've done it...many times.
Whether any of the rest of the pool world knows about it isn't in the equation.
How long does it take to deteriorate it? Days, months, years?
I've done the same tip, several times, over the course of a year or two and the tip looked like brand new.
You ain't got a clue, pal.
As far as oiling your tips, good for you, if youre happy great. But you should stop recommending something provably false as a good thing to do.
You are trying anything you can to save face with these comments.
Have fun oiling your tips, youre wrong. :thumbup:
You are trying to save face after commenting on something you have never tried.
The question was asked if you could oil a tip and I answered the question with FACTS after doing it many times.
You answered with bullshit without ever trying it.
Like I said, nobody is suggesting to SOAK a tip in oil until it falls apart. Applying a drop of oil on a piece of leather is a totally different scenario.
Carry on.
You too. :thumbup:
Please don't ever put Mink Oil on your leather boots, or any of the other oils that are sold for leather products.
They are bad for your boots.
Youre a petty kind of feller arent ya?
We were talking about petroleum based products. I know that piece of info doesnt help you post something to try and make you sound right, but yeah, petroleum distillate based oils were the topic of discussion.
Mink oil, neatsfoot oil etc ARE for leather.
Sewing machine oil (which is what you have recommended several times before), WD40, other oils containing petroleum distillates ARE NOT for leather.
I can make you some flash cards if it would help. :thumbup:
I know what oil is what oil.
I'm trying to teach you something, Beavis.
I'm telling you what I've used. Singer Sewing Machine oil was the first type I ever tried because that is what was available and I used it until my little bottle dried up. I've used 3-in-1 oil, baby oil, and regular vegetable cooking oil, too.
The non-petroleum oils may be "better", but the others WORKED and I never noticed any difference in the long run.
Have you ever changed the oil in your car and gotten some oil on your shoes/boots?
Did they fall apart right away?
Do you use vegetable oil in your car?
In edit: I just remembered another oil I have used, over and over. The little bottle of whatever oil that came with my pair of hair clippers.
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Not sure what those last 3 had to do with the discussion at hand, but it was a nice way to change the subject. Refreshing.
Have you ever made a sandwich and got mustard on the counter?
Did it stain the counter or did it wipe off?
Ever listen to Stairway to Heaven while drawing a mouse?
Was the mouse funny looking?
:thumbup:
Have fun man, its all we can do in this life.
Now, let's get on another "taboo" subject.
SILICONE.
People will tell you that you should NEVER, EVER, NEVER, EVER even touch your cue with ANY type of silicone.
I have used a silicone impregnated gun cloth on my shafts HUNDREDS of times and they haven't fallen apart. I've even used it to shine up the forearms and butts on some of my cues.
Where did I learn this? Let's guess.
In a pool hall when I was working there as a teen 50 years ago.
An old guy came in and when I was watching him and racking the table (they paid by the game and we racked the balls), I noticed he kept wiping his cue with a yellow cloth. I asked him what it was and he told me and I checked his cue out. It was slicker than goose grease, but not oily. He told me the sporting store he bought it in and I bought one. I used them for decades and had one up until a couple years ago until somebody stole my bag.
BUT NO, NO, NO.
NEVER DO THAT.
You will NEVER be able to refinish the cue again.
WELL, I've had two of them refinished twice over the years and guess, "what?"
They are still like brand new, after 40 years.
They weren't refinished because of silicone damage. They were refinished because I had a few little dings in the finish and I like my stuff looking new.
And, like with the oil for tips, I DIDN'T soak my cue in silicone...I wiped it with a silicon cloth.
My cue butts were not down to bare wood when I used the cloth on them, they had finishes on them. If you have a bare wood butt, that may make a difference, but that wasn't my case. One of my cues had a sort of oil finish on it and it was refinished with no problem by Scott of Proficient Billiards. The other cue was refinished twice, once by a local guy, and once by McDermott.
So, the moral of the story is:
Some people have done things and had no problems and other people have talked about not doing things without ever doing it to see what happens.
And, please tell me I wasn't supposed to wipe my shaft down with lighter fluid the other day.
SILICONE.
People will tell you that you should NEVER, EVER, NEVER, EVER even touch your cue with ANY type of silicone.
I have used a silicone impregnated gun cloth on my shafts HUNDREDS of times and they haven't fallen apart. I've even used it to shine up the forearms and butts on some of my cues.
Where did I learn this? Let's guess.
In a pool hall when I was working there as a teen 50 years ago.
An old guy came in and when I was watching him and racking the table (they paid by the game and we racked the balls), I noticed he kept wiping his cue with a yellow cloth. I asked him what it was and he told me and I checked his cue out. It was slicker than goose grease, but not oily. He told me the sporting store he bought it in and I bought one. I used them for decades and had one up until a couple years ago until somebody stole my bag.
BUT NO, NO, NO.
NEVER DO THAT.
You will NEVER be able to refinish the cue again.
WELL, I've had two of them refinished twice over the years and guess, "what?"
They are still like brand new, after 40 years.
They weren't refinished because of silicone damage. They were refinished because I had a few little dings in the finish and I like my stuff looking new.
And, like with the oil for tips, I DIDN'T soak my cue in silicone...I wiped it with a silicon cloth.
My cue butts were not down to bare wood when I used the cloth on them, they had finishes on them. If you have a bare wood butt, that may make a difference, but that wasn't my case. One of my cues had a sort of oil finish on it and it was refinished with no problem by Scott of Proficient Billiards. The other cue was refinished twice, once by a local guy, and once by McDermott.
So, the moral of the story is:
Some people have done things and had no problems and other people have talked about not doing things without ever doing it to see what happens.
And, please tell me I wasn't supposed to wipe my shaft down with lighter fluid the other day.
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Let's see if I can make this SIMPLE enough for you.
A tip is hard and you want a softer tip.
Option one: Scuff it up a bit and see what happens.
Result: Tip is still hard. (seek more options)
Option two: Take the tip off and replace it with another one which is never a bad idea.
Result: Maybe a softer tip.
Option three: Put a drop of oil on it and see what happens.
Result 1: Still hard or oil damaged tip (not likely). Replace tip. (See Option two)
Result 2: Tip is softened. No need to change tip. Play pool.
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