michaelsu51216
Registered
Heard alot of bad feedback about this joint but its literally the only joint option predator produces now, is it worth paying to have it switched to a radial?
Uniloc quick release joint
- Thread starter michaelsu51216
- Start date
Theres nothing wrong with the joint. IMO, no, its not worth changing.
I would recommend joint protectors with the uniloc for the reason of keeping dirt/debris out of the joint.
When people have problems with them, its usually crud in there.
It's the best joint for dampening feedback to the butt. There's a thread somewhere that shows an X-Ray of this joint which reveals little bondage between the two pieces. Also every shaft you buy will cost more, so the cost also depends on the life of the butt. Personally I think the Uni-Loc QR is a bad choice because it adds far too much invariable weight to the center of the stick.
I tell people who are new to Pool who Cue that has a Unilock, use a dry Q-Tipos to keep it clean, and troble free.
Never put oil on a Uni-Lock, as it may never open again.
Never put oil on a Uni-Lock, as it may never open again.
I have a +10 year old P2 with a uniloc joint and a 5 year old Ikon with a uniloc joint. All I do is wipe down my cues, joints, and joint caps with a clean cloth (t-shirt) after play and have never had an issue. No locking or coming loose. Maybe once a year I’ll use a qtip with 90% rubbing alcohol to clean in between the threads. Pretty sure this is on the maintenance section of preds/uniloc website. Even then I’ve only down this maybe 3-4 times in the existence of my cues and have never had a problem.
See above.
My 10 year old Mighty Lucasi Cocobolo cue with uniloc has never given me any problems.
My personal opinion is as long as the shaft is tight to the butt the pin makes no difference what type it is.
Bill Stroud hall of fame cue maker invented this joint.
I think he knew a bit more about joining cues then us players.
They were really good when they were made in the US.
Now, the screws are made in Mexico.
They are no longer as polished as the original ones.
Sometimes the brass insert will have chip offs.
My late mentor had a brand new shaft lock up on a cue one time. It would not come off. Luckily it had a little movement so he dropped some oil in the gap.
After a day, it finally un-joined.
The joint itself is fine. Very convenient and it is absolutely the straightest joint there is. It does get loose during play after a while but it's a good habit to tighten your cue while thinking on a shot anyway.
Now, the screws are made in Mexico.
They are no longer as polished as the original ones.
Sometimes the brass insert will have chip offs.
My late mentor had a brand new shaft lock up on a cue one time. It would not come off. Luckily it had a little movement so he dropped some oil in the gap.
After a day, it finally un-joined.
The joint itself is fine. Very convenient and it is absolutely the straightest joint there is. It does get loose during play after a while but it's a good habit to tighten your cue while thinking on a shot anyway.
N
Strait is strait. The unlock is no straiter than any other pin joint setup. And besides Mezz has the best joints in the United And wavy joint systems.
Personally don't care for unblock quick release. They do come loose its happened to me a few times and i almost never play with a quick release cue. Never has happened to me with a regular radial three eightsx10. Five 16x14. United or wavy.
What is it a turn and a half? Threads need about three full turns to be secure.
Not as polished? Get some mcquires fine cut cleaner buffing compound from Walmart or harbor freight. And polish it...makes an old cues clearcoat look new too....works good on cars (its intended purpose). Also polishes Silver or stainless jewelry.
Strait is strait. The unlock is no straiter than any other pin joint setup. And besides Mezz has the best joints in the United And wavy joint systems.
Personally don't care for unblock quick release. They do come loose its happened to me a few times and i almost never play with a quick release cue. Never has happened to me with a regular radial three eightsx10. Five 16x14. United or wavy.
What is it a turn and a half? Threads need about three full turns to be secure.
Clear coat polisher won't polish those screws.
You need metal polisher and a buffer.
No such thing as best joints..
Straight is straight.
Last edited:
Not only does predator make their high end Panteras in a radial joint but they also started making their P3's in both Uniloc and Uniloc Radial so that you have an option. I have the new Bacote P3 in radial. Also, all their new Sneaky Petes are exclusively radial joints. I'm not going to go on an anti-Uniloc diatribe, but I have to re-tighten my BK Rush every once in a while. So much so, that I have got into the habit of tightening the cue before every break.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
Likely just oxidation or dirt.
Use metal polish compounds for metal. Things like black emery, white diamond, tripoli, etc..
I have a Predator Uni-Loc on a player, (Throne), and my current breaker a BK3.
Never had to clean the player and it worked flawlessly for the year I used it.
The BK3 does loosen up though so I'm in the habit of checking before I break.
I've played with almost all of the other popular joints and never had any preference.
Never had to clean the player and it worked flawlessly for the year I used it.
The BK3 does loosen up though so I'm in the habit of checking before I break.
I've played with almost all of the other popular joints and never had any preference.
Let's see pictures of the.polished Uniloc quick release screws you've installed.
