GCIII Head/Foot Slate/Base Matching

does the base and slate on my GCIII have a head and foot or can i install either way? there is a penciled "H" on one end and i'm assuming that means the "head" of the table but i can't see any difference between the ends.

also: i'm really angry with myself for hurrying and chipping the foot slate when i took this table apart. i looked at it in detail yesterday and it's much worse than just a small chip out of the top. the cracks go down into the pin holes. before i screwed it up, the slate was PERFECT but now, not. i almost smashed it with a sledge and still might do that if i can't get my anger under control. i drove 400 miles round-trip to get this table. i'm severely depressed about it. i've been looking for an 8' GC for YEARS and finally found one and then promptly destroyed the slate.

nine o nine said:

If it were mine I'd lightly clamp the affected areas and weep thin CA along the crack lines. Pink lable "ZAP" glue from the hobby shop is tremendously strong for an application like this. It'll go deep into the cracks. It's worth a try. Mitch

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i was going to try to get some super-glue in there then clamp. what is "CA"?

is "ZAP" glue better than super-glue? i'll look it up...

bradsh98 said:

I agree. More clamps are better than less. Use Bondo for the missing sections, and block sand it flush.

You may want to make sure that the labeled 'Head' end is placed in it's original position, so that the screw holes line up.

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that's what i was thinking. i got the slate on but backwards but i'll flip it around because i want to make sure that the slate holes line-up. i'll check for squareness to the frame afterwards. .

ok, trying to find the ZAP glue locally but home depot doesn't carry it.

nine o nine said:

Geoff, I'm thinking clamp first because if the CA sets up deep in the cracks before clamping then there could be high spots that won't go down. The CA I think ZAP brand is the best. All hobby shops carry it. The thin has a pink lable an will wick into the tiniest spaces. Mitch

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if you clamp immediately the excess glue will squish out .

i ordered some ZAP pink glue online but might just use the cheap-ass superglue i got at walmart because i don't want to have to wait.

i "fixed" one area with JB Weld. i like JB because it's almost the exact color of the slate and dries very hard. it also sands easily and afterward you can barely see the fix.

i've calmed down and decided that smashing the slate is not prudent at this time. lol...

i threw away my 8' pro Gandy and used the slate for a patio along with the slate from a 9' Sonier Wilhelm pos that i got for free.... the 8' GCIII is a superior product. i leveled the base and just rested the slate and it's very close to being level. no crowns or depressions. this table despite my indiscretion is going to play as good as any.

thanks to all for the advice.

JB Weld Slate Fix

Here's a pic of my fixed slate using JB Weld slow cure epoxy. i like it because it dries rock hard, sands easy and is slate colored.

below are four pics of the before and after of the edge chips that i fixed.