Trapped on the end
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skipbales
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Trapped on the end - 12-05-2018, 03:46 PM

I regularly trap myself on the end rail. After the break I roll down for position on a ball along the foot rail. The ball is a few inches off the rail and a 6-10" from the pocket and I get either straight in or with a slight angle away from the rail. I am usually trying for a back cut angle or a steeper into the end rail angle and get too straight.

I don't have enough angle to comfortably get out for position. I try to cheat the pocket and come off the rail with running English but often rattle the object ball in the attempt.

Here is what I have tried.

1. The natural thing seems to me to be high running English. I have missed the shot, followed the ball into the pocket, and every result you can imagine, including occasionally getting slightly out of the corner but with no accuracy and unless I have an insurance ball I am looking at a tough shot.

2. High reverse. Cue ball rattles back and forth in the corner and dies.

3. Center or low reverse. This works but I have to hit so hard I rattle the object ball a lot or only rebound a few inches.

4. Draw. This is the most reliable but very limited. I have to draw back off the side rail and try to spin up table. This is a difficult shot to control and often I have traffic which prevents it.

5. Low running English - This seems counter intuitive but may actually be the correct way to get to the rail and spin out of the corner. I have had some limited success with this.

If I could decide on the best course of action I could work on one shot instead of 5. How do the pros escape this too straight and little room situation.

If the ball is close to the rail I go rail first but if it is 3-4 inches off the rail I don't like that option.
  
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Bob Jewett
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12-05-2018, 04:42 PM

If it's straight in you first need to work on your draw shot with side spin. Next, work on cheating the pocket and spinning two rails out of the corner with running follow.

If it is not straight in, it depends on which side the cue ball is on. If you are closer to the end rail than for a straight in, I think the choices are many and easy. I think that was the side you usually try for if I understood your post.

If the cue ball is slightly more away from the rail than for a straight in, I think you have to be able to play the running follow consistently and confidently. If you want to get fancy, jack up and bounce off the nose of the cushion. This can actually be controlled with practice ... and it's fun.

A problem with drawing the cue ball is that you can draw straight into the corner pocket if the draw takes before the cue ball gets to the cushion. You can avoid that by jacking up just a little so the cue ball does a very small jump to the cushion and then when the draw takes it will pull the cue ball away from the pocket. You can get about the same action by playing with very little draw and much harder.

Lastly, you could work on your post-collision masse.


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12-05-2018, 04:50 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Jewett View Post
If it's straight in you first need to work on your draw shot with side spin. Next, work on cheating the pocket and spinning two rails out of the corner with running follow.

If it is not straight in, it depends on which side the cue ball is on. If you are closer to the end rail than for a straight in, I think the choices are many and easy. I think that was the side you usually try for if I understood your post.

If the cue ball is slightly more away from the rail than for a straight in, I think you have to be able to play the running follow consistently and confidently. If you want to get fancy, jack up and bounce off the nose of the cushion. This can actually be controlled with practice ... and it's fun.

A problem with drawing the cue ball is that you can draw straight into the corner pocket if the draw takes before the cue ball gets to the cushion. You can avoid that by jacking up just a little so the cue ball does a very small jump to the cushion and then when the draw takes it will pull the cue ball away from the pocket. You can get about the same action by playing with very little draw and much harder.

Lastly, you could work on your post-collision masse.
Thank you for the help. Yes the Draw with up table spin is the most reliable but hard to control precisely.
Yes I am trying for closer to the end rail. The worst is when I am slightly farther out but not enough to have real angle. That is even worse than totally straight in.

On the spin out of the corner with the pocket cheat, that is the shot I am looking for . High running scratches and brings the cue ball forward into the pocket and the tight corner. Center doesn't reach the rail well. This is why I was wondering about low running. For the spin out is it high, center or low?
  
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12-05-2018, 06:43 PM

the more practical answer is learn to play into the rail with enough force to not leave yourself straight in....
the rail first option at close distance isnt so hard if you practice it
it will save you when needed
jmho
  
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12-15-2018, 06:24 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by bbb View Post
the more practical answer is learn to play into the rail with enough force to not leave yourself straight in....
the rail first option at close distance isnt so hard if you practice it
it will save you when needed
jmho
Good advice. I am working on that. It is tough to get the speed exact when coming up and down full table. I am lucky to get "about" where I want to be, even if a little too straight.

I did have a break through. I had an almost straight in shot with just a touch of angle towards the rail and I experimented with all the ways to get out and found I was trying to go forward too often when draw was a lot easier. I put just enough draw on to get me to the rail and the spin took off and brought me out to the middle. This was especially helpful when I was close to the pocket. Trying to get into the rail with top spin near the pocket had me scratching or catching the corners. The draw seemed "illogical" to me as it was a much longer distance but the spin added so much speed it was not as hard a shot as I expected. I had to adjust my aim quite a bit to keep from over cutting the ball but once I got the hang of it things went well.

So it seems to me: If there is a slight angle to the rail go back, if there is a slight angle away from the rail go forward and if it is dead straight use the side of the pocket necessary to get that slight towards the rail angle and go back, instead of trying to use the other side of the pocket and go forward.

As always I appreciate all the input from everyone and wish you all a Merry Christmas and great 2019.
  
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12-15-2018, 08:42 AM

Just to preface what I'm about to say: All of my suggestions --- I have tested extensively and have used in competition.

I'm sure you remember the big debate about to drop or not to drop your elbow. Many have resolved it in their mind that it's okay to do after the tip impacts the cue ball. I disagree. There are certain shots where it helps to drop your elbow prior to impact. Why? An absolutely level cue at impact helps the shot. This is one of those cases.

When the cb and ob are along the rail and there's hardly any angle to work with and you will have to cheat the pocket to avoid a scratch, having a perfectly level cue at impact helps to pocket the ball with high accuracy and allows you to use enough side spin to avoid the scratch.

It has become one of my favorite shots because my confidence level in success is high. You just have to practice allowing your elbow to drop prior to impact. It works.


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