Gold Crown Barn Find

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Understood... thanks for clarifying that your original comment was in fact wrong.

Wrong?...LOL go take a look at some of the Gabriel's tables in California, the rail skirts and leg pedestals all have spider web cracks in the finish, because they're made out of MDF and not Maple hardwood, like the rail skirts on your table is made from.
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Second table owner here: some behind Rexus but that gives me the advantage of learning from his progress.

Biggest hurdle at the moment is getting a decent paint finish on the base. 4 coats and sanding between gets old.

Had the corner castings, feet, and trim powder coated (discovered an issue with one casting). One corner had been used as a sawhorse it looks like and they cut into a pocket! Didn’t notice (doh)! and now I have to find and buy another and have it coated at the same vendor.

Have repaired the ball box.

Bought a set of wings from Trent, and Rexus did a nice job repairing a few issues with them — see above.

Bought a few misc parts from classic Billiards, muellers and a local nut and bolt store.

Buffed out the formica and pulled cloth and staples from all the rails. Very pleased with the results,

Scored a sweet replica Brunswick sticker from Rexus. Love that detail! Even though nobody will ever see it lol.

Brother is going to give the paint a go this week. Wish me luck. Maybe I’ll catch Rexus soon!

Also looking for a triangle rack, along with the corner pocket casting.

It's a marathon, not a sprint. You're doing great and the table will be done soon enough.

Did you mean you need a triangle rack holder of the actual rack?
 

strmanglr scott

All about Focus
Silver Member
Wrong?...LOL go take a look at some of the Gabriel's tables in California, the rail skirts and leg pedestals all have spider web cracks in the finish, because they're made out of MDF and not Maple hardwood, like the rail skirts on your table is made from.

MDF is more stable as for expansion, contraction and warping than solid wood. MDF, not particle board.
 

poolhustler

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Wrong?...LOL go take a look at some of the Gabriel's tables in California, the rail skirts and leg pedestals all have spider web cracks in the finish, because they're made out of MDF and not Maple hardwood, like the rail skirts on your table is made from.

Ohhh my bad … I thought this was a GC restoration thread. Didn't realize it changed to a Gabriel's table restoration thread. Thanks for clarifying Glen .. LOL
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Skirt Repair Completed

Pocket and I wrapped up the repair on his skirts yesterday. Using the mating pieces as a guide, we drilled the mounting holes. We test fit the pieces together and they are a perfect fit. Not RKC approved but effective nevertheless.

48782116042_0b6c2e82fd_c.jpg


48781582758_70a92f174f_c.jpg


We are both going with nylon fasteners (5/16"-18x3/4") to secure the corners. They work great.

48782115952_16372d0ecf_c.jpg
 
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realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Ohhh my bad … I thought this was a GC restoration thread. Didn't realize it changed to a Gabriel's table restoration thread. Thanks for clarifying Glen .. LOL

Look it up yourself😎

1. Alligatoring Paint

This occurs when*oil-based paints*have gone beyond their usable lives. As oil-based paints age, they become harder and more brittle.

This makes for a great hard finish on trim, windows and doors, but eventually they become too brittle to keep up with the constant expansion and contraction of wood. Soon, the paint starts cracking in a way that looks like a subway map of Manhattan
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Raffi (pocket) and I wrapped up the repair on his skirts yesterday. Using the mating pieces as a guide, we drilled the mounting holes. We test fit the pieces together and they are a perfect fit. Not RKC approved but effective nevertheless.

48782116042_0b6c2e82fd_c.jpg


48781582758_70a92f174f_c.jpg


We are both going with nylon fasteners (5/16"-18x3/4") to secure the corners. They work great.

48782115952_16372d0ecf_c.jpg

Spring clamps work real good, are easy to remove when you need to tighten the rail bolts later on. But who knows, maybe these experts on here will think rail bolts on a GC1 never come loose. But when you're putting the table together, take a look at the access to each rail bolt so you can see how ti get to it later on.
 

realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
Thanks. What's the torque spec for the rail bolts?

Depends on the rail bolt anchors Steve rebuilds your rails with, but at least 12ftlbs for the factory anchors, and up to 15ft lbs for the threaded inserts Diamond uses.

Over tightening the rail bolts is what causes so many problems with the factory Brunswick capture nut used in the rails. You have a 1/4" thick nut, with 3 threads used to hold a 3/8"ths thick bolt tight. Because only a few threads are actually holding the rail bolt tight, over tightening them stretches the threads on the bolt. That's what happens when you got to take out the rail bolt and it locks up in place and won't back out, or when installing it, the threads no longer line up in the capture nut. Everyone just assumes the bolt was installed cross threaded, but it's not, the threads no longer match up.

The inserts we use in the Diamond rails have 1 1/8" inch of threads to tighten the bolts with, there is no thread stress with that much thread surface contact.
 
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rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Depends on the rail bolt anchors Steve rebuilds your rails with, but at least 12ftlbs for the factory anchors, and up to 15ft lbs for the threaded inserts Diamond uses.

Over tightening the rail bolts is what causes so many problems with the factory Brunswick capture nut used in the rails. You have a 1/4" thick nut, with 3 threads used to hold a 3/8"ths thick bolt tight. Because only a few threads are actually holding the rail bolt tight, over tightening them stretches the threads on the bolt. That's what happens when you got to take out the rail bolt and it locks up in place and won't back out, or when installing it, the threads no longer line up in the capture nut. Everyone just assumes the bolt was installed cross threaded, but it's not, the threads no longer match up.

The inserts we use in the Diamond rails have 1 1/8" inch of threads to tighten the bolts with, there is no thread stress with that much thread surface contact.

Thanks. When we last spoke, Steve was on the fence on using threaded inserts or the OEM factory anchors.
 

Ron Padilla

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I turned wrenches all my life and there is one thing for sure and that is all bolts stretch when torqued to the mfg recommendations! At some point all bolts will fail maybe not so much in this case as that table has not been torn down very many times! But it is something to consider!


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realkingcobra

Well-known member
Silver Member
I turned wrenches all my life and there is one thing for sure and that is all bolts stretch when torqued to the mfg recommendations! At some point all bolts will fail maybe not so much in this case as that table has not been torn down very many times! But it is something to consider!


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That's why, as a table mechanic, I always carry a tap & die set with me at all times when working on pool tables.
 

Ron Padilla

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
What occurs when torquing a dry bolt to spec is that it galled the metal and makes it difficult to both remove and reinstall! It has been mentioned some where on azb about using oil and was said that, you probably wouldn’t want to do that around a pool table! However some type of dry lube would do 2 things, allow for proper torque and easy removal when it come time for disassembly! Now someone is going to ask just what could be recommended to do that with out making a mess especially around a table with cloth! And to that I would say is search out the alternatives for a dry lube!


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