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making pocket shelves more friendly
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nine o nine
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making pocket shelves more friendly - 06-21-2019, 01:50 AM

Our communitie's table, an 8' furniture piece, will be re-clothed soon. While the hired company's mechanic is here doing that job I want to adjust the pocket shelves...they are too deep and many balls hang in the pocket throat. The players are retired recreational guys and the pocket geometry takes much of the fun out of the game. I propose to shorten the shelf by changing the radius of the openings since the bed cloth will be off for an hour or two while the mechanic is doing the rail cloth. His company won't allow him to do this?????
I'm fully capable of doing a good job but I hope my plan is good (I was an airplane mechanic for years and have good hands with tools) and a full understanding of table geometry.
I hope to get a couple of answers from the pros on this forum. "A" is simply reshaping the pocket radius a legitimate idea rather than a whole recut of the slate? Recutting the slate is not an option. "B" Is a rasp the best tool to use followed by sanding for smoothness?
I think increasing the radius 1/4" out would make a big difference in the playability of this table.
I've measured the pocket angles and they're generally a bit off in three or four spots too but I can't talk the association into letting me mess with those.
Thanks for listening RKC, Trent, Geoff and all the other pros here for making this forum possible. Mitch
  
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bradsh98
Bradshaw Billiard Service
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06-21-2019, 06:40 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nine o nine View Post
Our communitie's table, an 8' furniture piece, will be re-clothed soon. While the hired company's mechanic is here doing that job I want to adjust the pocket shelves...they are too deep and many balls hang in the pocket throat. The players are retired recreational guys and the pocket geometry takes much of the fun out of the game. I propose to shorten the shelf by changing the radius of the openings since the bed cloth will be off for an hour or two while the mechanic is doing the rail cloth. His company won't allow him to do this?????
I'm fully capable of doing a good job but I hope my plan is good (I was an airplane mechanic for years and have good hands with tools) and a full understanding of table geometry.
I hope to get a couple of answers from the pros on this forum. "A" is simply reshaping the pocket radius a legitimate idea rather than a whole recut of the slate? Recutting the slate is not an option. "B" Is a rasp the best tool to use followed by sanding for smoothness?
I think increasing the radius 1/4" out would make a big difference in the playability of this table.
I've measured the pocket angles and they're generally a bit off in three or four spots too but I can't talk the association into letting me mess with those.
Thanks for listening RKC, Trent, Geoff and all the other pros here for making this forum possible. Mitch

Please don't mess with the slate.. The best way to adjust the pocket difficulty is by adjusting the rail angles. It will be more expensive, but you won't ruin the table. Cutting slate is always an absolute last resort.

Furniture style tables always have bucket pockets, with poor rail angles. Depending on the manufacturer, the facings may be junk. Or, there is also the possibility that the cushion ends were cut poorly, which also makes a pocket play bad.

My point is: I think that you are focused on the wrong aspect. What is the make/model? Olhausens are commonly known for difficult playing pockets. However, if you change the rail angles to 141 x 13, it really makes the table play much more forgiving, even with a tighter opening. I typically adjust all of my rails to 141. However, I may change the down draft angle, depending on the table. Brunswick Gold Crowns/Anniversaries/etc.. I almost always go with 12 down draft angle.

Also, a harder durometer facing will make the pocket play a bit more forgiving. Cushion rubber is usually somewhere in the range of 50A. I typically use 60A neoprene rubber facings. You could go harder, but I wouldn't recommend it. Some guys use 40A, but that will really make a pocket play springy.

Again, a lot of options here. But, cutting the slate is never ideal. Unless, of course, there isn't a large enough radius on the edge of the pockets, which causes ball impacts to cut through the cloth. However, you really only need about 1/4" radius.


Geoff Bradshaw
Bradshaw Billiard Service

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realkingcobra
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06-21-2019, 08:02 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by nine o nine View Post
Our communitie's table, an 8' furniture piece, will be re-clothed soon. While the hired company's mechanic is here doing that job I want to adjust the pocket shelves...they are too deep and many balls hang in the pocket throat. The players are retired recreational guys and the pocket geometry takes much of the fun out of the game. I propose to shorten the shelf by changing the radius of the openings since the bed cloth will be off for an hour or two while the mechanic is doing the rail cloth. His company won't allow him to do this?????
I'm fully capable of doing a good job but I hope my plan is good (I was an airplane mechanic for years and have good hands with tools) and a full understanding of table geometry.
I hope to get a couple of answers from the pros on this forum. "A" is simply reshaping the pocket radius a legitimate idea rather than a whole recut of the slate? Recutting the slate is not an option. "B" Is a rasp the best tool to use followed by sanding for smoothness?
I think increasing the radius 1/4" out would make a big difference in the playability of this table.
I've measured the pocket angles and they're generally a bit off in three or four spots too but I can't talk the association into letting me mess with those.
Thanks for listening RKC, Trent, Geoff and all the other pros here for making this forum possible. Mitch
Brad gave you some good solid advice, and I'll go a little further as well. Maybe check with an optometrist and get some pool playing glasses, being as good as I am, it's getting harder for me to see all the time. Or, you might even consider letting your grandkids shoot for you when it's your turn....LOL but my one question of concern is, do you still work on airplanes, and if so.....which ones in particular?
  
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nine o nine
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06-21-2019, 03:25 PM

I got my A+P licence in 1961. I worked mostly helping local home-builders with their projects. Did a total airframe and engine restoration on a J-3 Cub and was confident enough to teach and solo my son when he was sixteen...got my instructor's certificates too. I taught single and multi engine, instrument , single engine seaplane as well as glider. For a real job I worked in my family's paint and wallpaper store.
Started playing straight pool with friends on Wednesday eves at the Elks club then 8 ball at the local senior center.
I'm fully retired now at 76 and live in a senior community. I moved a GC III into my basement...installed the slates, bondoed the seams, leveled and shimmed, new Super speeds and 360HR all myself. Pocket angles are perfect, 5 and 5 1/2 pockets,and I get 5 length rebounds. I enjoy twice a week senior tournaments in a local pool hall with all GC III's. My pocket shelf question was for the community 8 footer. Since I don't own the table I can't do anything about the facings or bad angles and the powers that be won't pay for an overhaul.
Geoff and you have convinced me to live with the pocket rattles. Also 3 length rebounds are tough to get but ces't la vie.
  
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06-22-2019, 07:33 AM

Quote:
I got my A+P licence in 1961. I worked mostly helping local home-builders with their projects. Did a total airframe and engine restoration on a J-3 Cub and was confident enough to teach and solo my son when he was sixteen...got my instructor's certificates too. I taught single and multi engine, instrument , single engine seaplane as well as glider.
Quote:
I moved a GC III into my basemen
Why couldn't you have been my neighbor!

EAA 45 yrs, started separate flying club about 15 yrs ago with C140, pre-war J3. Used to own and make parts for C175. (Under A&P "supervision") Sonerai 2L project now. Oh, & BBC 1927 9' "Royal"project.

I'm just 10 yrs younger and starting to wonder - how do you make it in life (will to go on living ) without a shop as a person ages out. Or do you have access to some?

smt
  
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nine o nine
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06-22-2019, 11:52 AM

Well SMT, Things change as we get older. I stopped flying after tragedies. My heart went out of it after 3 seperate accidents took my good friends lives.
That happened in a two year span about 25 years ago. I've looked towards the sky since I was 3 or 4 years old. I kept looking upwards though when i got into RC modeling...Big Time! I have always been competitive so I learned enough to go to meets and sometimes win. My last endeavors were with giant scale. There's an invitational contest in Florida each spring that I competed in with the world's best. 4th place was the highest acheived and was damned proud. You can see me and my winner on Youtube...Giant Scale Waco. It's the one with a true 5 cylinder radial. It cost plenty to be in that hobby so when my disposable income dried up I turned to pool...leagues, local competitions, friends,etc. So that's where I am now. Life is good and attitude keeps it that way. Sorry to tie up this forum with my reminiscing but I'm sure that most of us have interests other than pool too. Bye
  
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Tony_in_MD
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06-22-2019, 01:14 PM

Nice plane. Good luck with your table project.


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