What makes two piece cues better?

PariahZero

PariahZero

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My wife knows I love playing pool, and gifted me with a table (out of the blue.) Suddenly I’m caring more about my game.

I know nearly nothing about wood or cues in general. I’ve always used house cues, and never played for anything but fun.

I’ve always wondered what makes a two-piece cue “better” than a one piece cue.

I know there’s the portability side to it, but aside from that, what makes a two piece better? Is there something about the joint that improves it, or is it just easier to make a great two piece cue than a one piece?
 
tsp&b

tsp&b

Well-known member
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Two piece cue originally came into existence simply because they were much easier to carry than a long single piece cue. There are many who would tell you that the best cue is a one piece cue. If fact many world class Snooker players use only one piece cues.
 
T

The_JV

'AZB_Combat Certified'
Because of this particular forum, I'd also add that they are likely easier to ship to customers... ;)
 
Island Drive

Island Drive

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Also, probably easier to keep the wood perfectly straight, as temp. time and humidity always impact wood and it's movement. Reason why great cue makers age there woods years before they cut em down. When wood is cut down, it will move/flex and change. When shafts are turned from blanks to play, it's never done all at once. Each piece is cut then let stand, then cut then again stand till the final cut.

Buy yeah, carrying something 60'' OD with case is awkward.
 
cueman

cueman

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The two piece cue is easier to carry. Easier to custom balance. Less likely to warp. Offers a much wider range of wood and material options. The hit can be adjusted more.
 
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thoffen

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I'm not really getting why a 2 piece cue would be less likely to warp. I'm not sure why you'd be obligated to do a traditional full splice and lose any of the aforementioned potential advantages of a 2 piece cue apart from portability. Of course, you couldn't exchange the shaft so there's something.
 
cueman

cueman

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thoffen said:
I'm not really getting why a 2 piece cue would be less likely to warp. I'm not sure why you'd be obligated to do a traditional full splice and lose any of the aforementioned potential advantages of a 2 piece cue apart from portability. Of course, you couldn't exchange the shaft so there's something.
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The longer a piece of wood is the more likely it is to warp. The shaft portion of a full spliced bar cue is several inches longer than a normal shaft. A true one piece cue made from one piece of wood will be even more likely to warp. They are also less likely to be kept in a case which also makes them more likely to warp.
 
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thoffen

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cueman said:
The longer a piece of wood is the more likely it is to warp. The shaft portion of a full spliced bar cue is several inches longer than a normal shaft. A true one piece cue made from one piece of wood will be even more likely to warp. They are also less likely to be kept in a case which also makes them more likely to warp.
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Ok. I think it's just perspective on the question. Yeah if you do what is typically done (full splice bar cue construction), poor storage conditions), that makes sense.

But if the question is constructing a cue any way you want just make one have a joint in the middle you can unscrew and the other not, there really isn't any reason you can't make the shaft the same length, etc.
 
iusedtoberich

iusedtoberich

AzB Silver Member
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thoffen said:
Ok. I think it's just perspective on the question. Yeah if you do what is typically done (full splice bar cue construction), poor storage conditions), that makes sense.

But if the question is constructing a cue any way you want just make one have a joint in the middle you can unscrew and the other not, there really isn't any reason you can't make the shaft the same length, etc.
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Well if you make them the same as a 2 piece with a joint, and then glue the joint shut, yes, you'd be correct:)

One of the mass production brands in the 90's did this. I think it was cue-tech, but not 100%. One of the top guns in the local hall loved the hit of this "one piece house cue". A bunch of us drove to buy one when there were still brick and mortar dealers. He picked his favorite one from a big bucked of them. We took it back to the pool room, and all of us held on to a portion and were able to twist it apart with tremendous effort. I think we may have had to wrap it with rubber bands to get more grip. Its been 20 years... Once apart, the player used it for quite a while as a 2 piece cue putting it in his case.
 
iusedtoberich

iusedtoberich

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PariahZero said:
My wife knows I love playing pool, and gifted me with a table (out of the blue.) Suddenly I’m caring more about my game.

I know nearly nothing about wood or cues in general. I’ve always used house cues, and never played for anything but fun.

I’ve always wondered what makes a two-piece cue “better” than a one piece cue.

I know there’s the portability side to it, but aside from that, what makes a two piece better? Is there something about the joint that improves it, or is it just easier to make a great two piece cue than a one piece?
Click to expand...

In general cues around the $100 range and up will be catered more towards the serious player (even if they are a beginner, as long as they want to become much better). The shaft portion that slides in your bridge hand will be much smoother, so it slides easier. Its taper will be more gradual, again so it slides easier between your fingers. The fit and finish will be much nicer. And the wood will always be maple. (some really cheap cues use ramin wood or something similar). All of these things will make the cue feel better in your hands.

All of these things "could" also be present on a 1 piece house cue. But since the target market for a 1 piece house cue is causal players that don't care about most of these things, they are generally not.
 
T

thoffen

AzB Silver Member
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iusedtoberich said:
Well if you make them the same as a 2 piece with a joint, and then glue the joint shut, yes, you'd be correct:)

One of the mass production brands in the 90's did this. I think it was cue-tech, but not 100%. One of the top guns in the local hall loved the hit of this "one piece house cue". A bunch of us drove to buy one when there were still brick and mortar dealers. He picked his favorite one from a big bucked of them. We took it back to the pool room, and all of us held on to a portion and were able to twist it apart with tremendous effort. I think we may have had to wrap it with rubber bands to get more grip. Its been 20 years... Once apart, the player used it for quite a while as a 2 piece cue putting it in his case.
Click to expand...

Or some other way. Most 2-piece butts have at least 1 internal joint. There are a lot of ways to do that. Like I said, matter of perspective. If there was a sizable market for 1-piece cues other than bar / home table cues, they wouldn't all be made the way those bar cues are.
 
J

JerseyBill

AzB Silver Member
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PariahZero said:
My wife knows I love playing pool, and gifted me with a table (out of the blue.) Suddenly I’m caring more about my game.

I know nearly nothing about wood or cues in general. I’ve always used house cues, and never played for anything but fun.

I’ve always wondered what makes a two-piece cue “better” than a one piece cue.

I know there’s the portability side to it, but aside from that, what makes a two piece better? Is there something about the joint that improves it, or is it just easier to make a great two piece cue than a one piece?
Click to expand...
it's just the obvious. I actually like the hit of a one piece better. BUT, you can't fit it in your car as easily or in a locker at the local pool hall or in a protective case that's left accidentally in the trunk during cold or warm weather.
 
3kushn

3kushn

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cueman said:
The longer a piece of wood is the more likely it is to warp. The shaft portion of a full spliced bar cue is several inches longer than a normal shaft. A true one piece cue made from one piece of wood will be even more likely to warp. They are also less likely to be kept in a case which also makes them more likely to warp.
Click to expand...

Just curious, What's the idea behind Snooker cues of say 58" OAL and the joint at 16" from end of butt?
 
cueman

cueman

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3kushn said:
Just curious, What's the idea behind Snooker cues of say 58" OAL and the joint at 16" from end of butt?
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3/4 Cues as they are called allow you to build the shaft one piece and the short section of heavier weight wood for the handle area without any other splices or internal joints needed like you have with normal two piece cues.
 
3kushn

3kushn

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cueman said:
3/4 Cues as they are called allow you to build the shaft one piece and the short section of heavier weight wood for the handle area without any other splices or internal joints needed like you have with normal two piece cues.
Click to expand...

Guess I was asking about length of wood piece & warping.
Not trying to argue or pickin nits. Just trying to learn.
 
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