do it yourself tip replacement

Loctite super glue GEL

Outsource it

Just went through it with a couple of my own cues that needed it. It had been a while since I'd replaced a tip, and I remembered it going much better previously. The glues that are out there now are better. I think I used a Special T glue that I picked up from Seyberts along with the aerosol can of drying accelerant. The glue worked perfectly and held the tip on without any clamps and waiting like I remembered from when I was younger.

The tip trimming and shaping however... what a mess. Maybe my expectations were too high after watching the youtube clips of experts with lathe's turning out amazingly shaped and trimmed tips with glossy ferrules.

I'd say find the best local pool hall and ask to see who does good tip work and have him put one on a back-up or older cue. If that comes back good, have him fix up your player. It'll be the best $30 you'll spend, and that assumes you're buying a fancy layered tip from him. If you can't find someone good locally, there are places you can send your cue in. Having a backup shaft can help in that situation.

Tip replacement

I replace my own tips and have been doing it for more than a couple of decades.

I use Locktite Gel Super Glue and it works well. I uses to use Tweetens tip glue, but it takes a long time to set up and I noticed more tips coming off as compared to the super glue. Just be careful, because if you get it on the side of the ferrule , forget truing to get it off (acetone might work...as I expect nail polish remover might work as well).

I have a tool that I bought to make sure the ferrule was flat. It clamps to the shaft. There is a flat/disk that you use to make sure the face of the ferrule is flat. I can't really describe it well...here is an image; http://www.pooldawg.com/product/cue-top-sander-machine

I don't do anything fancy for lining up the tip. I put a piece of tape around the ferrule to protect it and then tape a square piece of paper on the end of the shaft. When you put the new tip in place, wrap the paper around the new tip and ferrule...it will do a pretty good job of centering the tip.

For cutting the tip down, I use a dremel tool with the small drum sander attachment. You have to be very careful here, as you can easily damage your ferrule. I just take my time and am very careful to not move the sanding part below the the tip onto the ferrule...this sounds more difficult than it is. A lathe would probably be easier and do a better job...but I don't have one at the moment.

When I am close, I sand by hand (again, I protect the ferrule with tape...and don't sand through the tape). When it is done, I burnish the sides of the tip and shape it. For sanding by hand, the rolls of plumbers sandpaper (used to prep copper pipe before soldering) works well.

Is this something i would recommend for just anyone to replace their tips...no...too much possibility of damaging the ferrule...but i've been doing it this way for almost 30 years. As someone else said, it is better and easier to find someone who does this...but if you are a do it yourself kind of person...this way will work and give you decent results.

John

tip replacment

doing your own tips.

9 times out of 10 its going to take you forever to get the tip flush with your ferrule and then you scratch the ferrule and chalk gets into the scraches and it looks like crap.
if you plan on doing you own tips get a lathe .
there is more to cue maintance than replacing the tip still need to clean and reseal the shafts plus replace a ferrule.
i have never seen any tip replaced by hand that compairs to what a lathe will do.
MMike

Not cheap but certainly the best for home cue tip repairs. Porper Big Shaver

Porper Products Big Shaver cleans and prepares tops of cue ferrules for new cue tips, and then trims, shapes and burnishes tips. Adjusts to any thickness of tip with a control button for trimming. Shaves side of tip even with ferrule and shapes to a perfect nickel radius. The file-hard steel blade allows hundreds of trimmings before it needs to be resharpened. Extra blade included.

jbmcgee1 said:

I'd say find the best local pool hall and ask to see who does good tip work and have him put one on a back-up or older cue. If that comes back good, have him fix up your player. It'll be the best $30 you'll spend, and that assumes you're buying a fancy layered tip from him. If you can't find someone good locally, there are places you can send your cue in. Having a backup shaft can help in that situation.

Click to expand...

Great advice!

Having a pro do it is the best if that is a option for you. But, you can do it yourself and still do a great job, you just need to be aware of the dangers and know what to look out for.

I have done several for me and others and I have never had a single complaint. In fact, several of the people paid me extra because they were so happy with the result.

Once I remove the tip I use 91% rubbing alcohol to clean the ferule area and surface to be glue to. After you clean it make sure nothing else touches it....like your hands! The oil from your hands can effect the glues bond.

I use the loctite gel that others here have suggested. It sets up extremely fast and provides a perfect bond.

The next part is where most will agree that using a lathe is the smartest choice. But if you don't have access to one then you have to improvise.
So, to trim up the sides I use a razor. This takes a very steady hand allot of patience at first. I suggest doing allot of practice on house cues before trying this on any decent cue.

I use a 2 sided razor blade. I lay it flat along the ferule with the sharp edge facing the tip. I slide it along the ferule, being extremely careful not to gouge the ferule, shaving the sides of the new tip. I turn the tip after every pass and I make sure I take very small cuts. After some practice you can get quite good at it and it doesn't take too long. When my tips are done, the shape is perfect, the sides are nicely burnished and the ferule is untouched.

Warning, if you are not the patient, coordinated type, don't bother trying this. You will most likely damage your cue (or someone elses) . Pro's are your best bet. But not everyone has a pro in their area. I do it myself because there isn't a good one in my town.

Whats the stuff?

Not to highjack the thread but what is the liquid I see cue makers put on a shaft before the initial trimming of the tip?

Thanks in advance.

cfrandy said:

Not cheap but certainly the best for home cue tip repairs. Porper Big Shaver

Porper Products Big Shaver cleans and prepares tops of cue ferrules for new cue tips, and then trims, shapes and burnishes tips. Adjusts to any thickness of tip with a control button for trimming. Shaves side of tip even with ferrule and shapes to a perfect nickel radius. The file-hard steel blade allows hundreds of trimmings before it needs to be resharpened. Extra blade included.

Click to expand...

I must be an idiot (I know, people on here have been saying that for years). I have this tool for years and years and can't remember ever even looking for the part that cleans and prepares tops of cue ferrules for new cue tips.

Freddie <~~~ rightfully accused

PS. Here's how Mueller's describes it:

"The Big Shaver is one of the most versatile tools available on the market today. This hand-held tool will trim, shape and burnish your tip from start to finish. Adjusts to any thickness of tip with a control button for trimming. Shaves side of tip even with ferrule, but will not cut ferrule. Shapes to a perfect nickel radius. The file-hard steel blade allows you hundreds of trimmings before the blade needs to be resharpened. 3" x 3" x 1 1/2". Extra blade included.
"

Note that there's no mentioning of cleaning or preparing the top for new tips

If you can find a pin that fits your shaft you can put the pin into a electric drill. Using the drill as part of a lathe. Secure the drill to a board that is longer than your shaft. Put the shaft into the drill and make a V block at the height required. Line the block with leather and a strap to wrap over the top. after gluing your tip on you can trim it using fixture you make using a razor, you can also shape it with the razor.

This is a start. When you get the drill in place you can be creative and add what ever you feel will help. Looking around a hardware store, Harbor Freight or etc you can find a lot of things cheap that you can adapt to make a lathe good enough to replace a tip, dress, clean a shaft and etc.

Even seen someone use the rubber end of a cain attached to a bolt inserted into a chuck to use as a way to secure the shaft in the drill.


.

Not to highjack the thread but what is the liquid I see cue makers put on a shaft before the initial trimming of the tip?

Click to expand...

Water. It softens the leather a little and makes cutting easier.

http://www.seyberts.com/products/Deluxe_Tip_Replacement_Kit-984-277.html

If the link works for you, its Seyberts. Scroll down and you can view a video on tip replacement using the Porper tools featured in the cue repair kit they offer.

I have used these and a couple more of the Porper tip tools when I used to hand tip. This will give you an idea of how easy it can be
if you have a couple of basic tools in which to do it.

I did buy and try the Porper Big Shaver but it isn't necessary. I found that the cutting blade always wanted to take too big a bite from the tip right off the bat. It is a well built tool, just not what you need to do a great job.

You can purchase many or all of the smaller more efficient tools for the same or less than the Big Shaver. Other than the tool used in Seyberts kit, I also used the Porper Little Shaver and a good utility knife.

You'll notice that the Kit is on sale right now and that is a great price for all you get. For a fraction of the cost of the Big Shaver.

mortuarymike-nv said:

doing your own tips.

9 times out of 10 its going to take you forever to get the tip flush with your ferrule and then you scratch the ferrule and chalk gets into the scraches and it looks like crap.
if you plan on doing you own tips get a lathe .
there is more to cue maintance than replacing the tip still need to clean and reseal the shafts plus replace a ferrule.
i have never seen any tip replaced by hand that compairs to what a lathe will do.
MMike

Click to expand...

The most important part is facing off the ferrule and the back of the tip so that both are perfectly flat. You definitely don't want an air pocket between the tip and the ferrule. I would never attempt this without an accurate lathe and sharp tooling.

Trimming the edge of the tip flush with the ferrule is a piece of cake with a good lathe and plenty of practice. My advice is to take your cue to a professional.

Jeeeez,
Youse guys make like this is brain surgery. How many places had lathes to put tips on back in the 60s or 40s or before??

Ya glue the damn thing on, ya trim it to fit and ya shape it.
If ya can't figure it out, or if you are putting it on a collectable rather than a shooter, pay somebody.

Nuff sed

Geno did an very nice write up of doing your own tip a long time ago. In fact it was early enough that he was still using all Caps in his post

Here it is

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=181895

You may not agree with his tip choice, but he has some very good advice in there if you can get past all the yelling lol.

Woody

Keep in mind that I wouldnt do everything exactly like he said, like using the duct tape, but his suggestion of sanding the tip edge would probably put some at ease that are afraid or dont want to use a razor blade next to their ferul

Its not brain surgery Thommy. It is pretty hard to do the ferrule without some help.

Other than that, anyone can do a tip with a utility knife, sandpaper and glue.

The various tip tools offered just make your job a little easier, thats about it.

mortuarymike-nv said:

doing your own tips.

9 times out of 10 its going to take you forever to get the tip flush with your ferrule and then you scratch the ferrule and chalk gets into the scraches and it looks like crap.
if you plan on doing you own tips get a lathe .
there is more to cue maintance than replacing the tip still need to clean and reseal the shafts plus replace a ferrule.
i have never seen any tip replaced by hand that compairs to what a lathe will do.
MMike

Click to expand...

I disagree. It is very well possible to instal a tip with absolute perfect quality like with a lathe, but it is rather difficult and you have to work absolutely accurate. Like jwalko1 said, I personally do it in a very similar way, and I've perfected it to be 100 % as good as the best lathe installed tip. I don't want to boast ot trying to get work - i have enough. But I want to share my knowledge.

Flatening the ferrule and tip perfectly I know is the most important thing to have a durable and ever lasting glueing. For this reason I flaten the ferrule with a file (fine rasp) in the common way how you use a file. But with that usual technique you will not be able to have a perfect flat surface, it will always become some kind of a radius. The final surface I do with a drawblade, the file (but only by turning the ferrule on the file, it's the most difficult step because you must have power in your grip and feeling as well) and at the end sandpaper 80 grid. The final control i do with a straightedge.

Glueing I do with cyanacrylate gel and fixing the tip with a long clamp.

Shaping is pretty simple by using a very sharp oneside-flat knive. But here you also have to be very careful and have a defined and reliable technique. And first of all you musn't be in a hurry.

It took me nearly 1 year with several failures to be on that level now. This is why I clearly do not advise someone to use that technique. And by the way, it takes round about half an hour to instal a tip in my method, so this is nothing to earn big money with. And more than 4 tips a day I don't make because it is pretty straining.

If you don't have the habit like me to experience how far you can be perfect without special machinery and if you want to have a perfectly installed tip: Go to a proffesional that does perfect with a lathe.

Blue Hog ridr said:

Its not brain surgery Thommy. It is pretty hard to do the ferrule without some help.

Other than that, anyone can do a tip with a utility knife, sandpaper and glue.

The various tip tools offered just make your job a little easier, thats about it.

Click to expand...

having recently gone through and experienced this myself, i would say this:

IMO changing a tip on a lathe is the BEST way to do it right and accurate, all things considered.
However, to me knowing how to do it by hand/getting practice is like being a huge "Car enthusiest, and never having changed your own spark plugs or oil!

no harm in having tools to help, but very important to know the best practiced steps. I say take it on! Learn, grow, and when you can support your local cuesmith great! do so, or even buy your own lathe and take on that role yourself!

TheBook said:

If you can find a pin that fits your shaft you can put the pin into a electric drill. Using the drill as part of a lathe. Secure the drill to a board that is longer than your shaft. Put the shaft into the drill and make a V block at the height required. Line the block with leather and a strap to wrap over the top. after gluing your tip on you can trim it using fixture you make using a razor, you can also shape it with the razor.

This is a start. When you get the drill in place you can be creative and add what ever you feel will help. Looking around a hardware store, Harbor Freight or etc you can find a lot of things cheap that you can adapt to make a lathe good enough to replace a tip, dress, clean a shaft and etc.

Even seen someone use the rubber end of a cain attached to a bolt inserted into a chuck to use as a way to secure the shaft in the drill.


.

Click to expand...

You might want to try this method:

Buy (2) Ace hardware super glue gel. You can use the cap on one of those tubes to fit into your shaft hole: First put a phillips screwdriver bit in your drill and schmoosh it into the plastic cap and put the cap into your shaft hole. Some caps need a little knife trimming to fit the shaft hole exactly, but that's a piece of cake.

That loose fit allows your shaft to spin but it won't get out of control as it slips if too much pressure, etc. is applied to the shaft. It works for uni-locks as well as regular screw holes.

The Ace glue dispenses very well, doesn't dry up, and is as good as any glue I've found so far.

fwiw,

Jeff Livingston

Cornerman said:

I must be an idiot (I know, people on here have been saying that for years). I have this tool for years and years and can't remember ever even looking for the part that cleans and prepares tops of cue ferrules for new cue tips.

Freddie <~~~ rightfully accused

PS. Here's how Mueller's describes it:

"The Big Shaver is one of the most versatile tools available on the market today. This hand-held tool will trim, shape and burnish your tip from start to finish. Adjusts to any thickness of tip with a control button for trimming. Shaves side of tip even with ferrule, but will not cut ferrule. Shapes to a perfect nickel radius. The file-hard steel blade allows you hundreds of trimmings before the blade needs to be resharpened. 3" x 3" x 1 1/2". Extra blade included.
"

Note that there's no mentioning of cleaning or preparing the top for new tips

Click to expand...

I'm not fussed about this tool generally - certainly not enough to splash out £80 on it, but it does have one extremely useful feature. There's a hole for you to put the ferrule into, and you just spin the shaft between your hands, as if starting a fire, and the abrasive stuff in the hole takes the tip remnant and glue off the ferrule a treat. It's really very good.

Getting a perfectly flat ferrule is the hardest thing to do IMO. Everything else is easy.