making a Sleeved joint

CavinTan

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
hi guys, do you have any insights or advice pertaining to this operation? i plan to turn down a SS joint a couple of mm and press fit a white joint over ( probably arvorin or elforyn)

would the epoxy bond the SS and plastic? also, would a press fit suffice or must the plastic be threaded on? thanks
 

cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
Cut grooves in the wood tenon and the outside of the plastic and slip fit with good epoxy will be fine,
 

captainjko

Kirk
Silver Member
Cut grooves in the wood tenon and the outside of the plastic and slip fit with good epoxy will be fine,

I think he is wanting to leave the stainless steel sleeve on the joint. Then turn it down a little in order to cover the stainless sleeve with a plastic sleeve...
 

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
sleeve

That is correct!

Your going to have to cut the stainless collar then you need an inside taper on the white sleeve to match and of course once the sleeve is on securely you can taper the outside. So you better figure out the dimensions to allow all that and end up with the original size so it matches the shaft collar.

A slow drying epoxy will hold the sleeve to the stainless.

Mario
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
Your going to have to cut the stainless collar then you need an inside taper on the white sleeve to match and of course once the sleeve is on securely you can taper the outside. So you better figure out the dimensions to allow all that and end up with the original size so it matches the shaft collar.

A slow drying epoxy will hold the sleeve to the stainless.

Mario

Sounds like a fun project.
Happy compounding!


Joey~Wonders what happens to the shafts after~
 

JC

Coos Cues
Your going to have to cut the stainless collar then you need an inside taper on the white sleeve to match and of course once the sleeve is on securely you can taper the outside. So you better figure out the dimensions to allow all that and end up with the original size so it matches the shaft collar.

A slow drying epoxy will hold the sleeve to the stainless.

Mario

Can't he cut the stainless sleeve straight eliminating the need to taper the inside of the plastic? I think that's what I would do.
 

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Can't he cut the stainless sleeve straight eliminating the need to taper the inside of the plastic? I think that's what I would do.

Sure :) just means cutting more metal maybe the collar will overheat and weakened the epoxy.

Mario
 

Hits 'em Hard

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
With all due respect guys, this is getting kind of silly.

The side wall of Schon SS joint collars is thin enough that any machining down of the side wall will cause the SS joint collar to fail. So no it’s not silly. Just because you aren’t aware of the problems that could arise, doesn’t mean the problems don’t exist. Specially considering the OP wants to sleeve over the SS with a thermoform plastic.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The side wall of Schon SS joint collars is thin enough that any machining down of the side wall will cause the SS joint collar to fail. So no it’s not silly. Just because you aren’t aware of the problems that could arise, doesn’t mean the problems don’t exist. Specially considering the OP wants to sleeve over the SS with a thermoform plastic.


Very good point. Hopefully the O. P. Is aware of what the i.d. thread is of the existing joint is. 5/8 thread or 3/4. If I didn't know, I would taper it. If I knew it was a 5/8 thread, straight cut is ok.
 
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cueman

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
Silver Member
I would cut it straight and just deal with what i have left if that is the desired approach. But I think I would just heat and remove the joint.
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It all depends on what you want for a final product.

IMG_20191022_105713.jpg
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
That's why tapering is safest unless you know what you are doing and what stainless collar you are dealing with.

Mario

The taper of stock collars is only .010" in an inch.
An average cue taper is around .014" per inch.
The wall is about .10" thick at the bottom of the threads ( .845"OD to .625" x18 ID )
He's got room for .050" thick sleeve.

But, he shouldn't take my word for it.
He should do mock-ups.
Learning by making mistakes is priceless.
 

Mcues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The taper of stock collars is only .010" in an inch.
An average cue taper is around .014" per inch.
The wall is about .10" thick at the bottom of the threads ( .845"OD to .625" x18 ID )
He's got room for .050" thick sleeve.

But, he shouldn't take my word for it.
He should do mock-ups.
Learning by making mistakes is priceless.

I have no idea what the accurate numbers of his collar are :) but I do know that lots of Adam(Helmstetter) cues show a .015 taper at the collar and 5/8 11 thread. Lots of variables including a.750 collar. If this was a job sitting in my shop the approach would depend on the make of the cue, and if in doubt, I would heat and remove the collar. This is all everyday stuff.

Mario
 
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