I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong, but wasn't the AC broken for a few days during that event too?
So I weighed my set of Aramith Pro Cups against the Cyclop Balls...
- Thread starter filluptieu
- Start date
I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong, but wasn't the AC broken for a few days during that event too?
Not sure about a few days but there was a couple times it got real warm and uncomfortable.
Funny how different people can see things or have a different experience. I was there for all 12 days and only saw 2 minor kicks/skids the entire time. I bought a set and have yet to have a skid, unlike the Aramith balls.
Andrew88
New member
I think there are many companies that offering many scales on amazon and walmart that provide you more accuracy. Which help you in getting accurate measurement that you need. And these scales have accuracy up to three division.
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Not sure about a few days but there was a couple times it got real warm and uncomfortable.
Funny how different people can see things or have a different experience. I was there for all 12 days and only saw 2 minor kicks/skids the entire time. I bought a set and have yet to have a skid, unlike the Aramith balls.
True, but conditions in very dry climates like here in the high desert of Colorado change quickly/Quickly as do table play conditons when a front moves thru quickly, hell even after a cold dry snow, when it starts melting quickly, play conditions change Dramatically. Dry air when compared to damp air is like night and day when outside weather changes are coming in.
The only event I ever won when all the pros were also in attendance, as it was just after Reno, was in Palm Springs in Summer of 89. When I arrived that summer it was Well over 118 plus degrees. with a high of 123...that was back in the day when Jeff Carter was touring/playing well and had a White Toyota van to sleep in. Since it was ninety five degrees before sunup he had to rent a room
. I also remember years ago a pool room in MN, they used the Willards Ball Cleaner after EVERY use of a ball set, it was automatic. Back then williard used a Wool pad, boy did that make the Centennials Porus. After two hours of play the balls were sooooooooooooooo Dirty, I could wipe and create a noticeable clean line on em with a wet finger. These were the most porus balls I've ever played also, played once at a room with centennials that were too old/played out and lost their elasticity, boy did they play different.
Being in the the Palm Springs desert they had swamp coolers, so by noon they Ran full tilt moisture into the ballroom, conditions changed EVERY hour. It got tooooooo hot/humid in the ballroom in the finals with the crowd....I had to dbl dip my opponent, we got a fifteen minute break between matches. I ran up to my room, took a cold shower, left my hair wet, went back into the ballroom and finished my business. Moisture, dirt and four days of play, conditions are Always in constant change, but those swamp coolers when they kicked in WOW.:yikes:
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I believe the older Centennials were made by Hyatt and had a different composition than the current Centennials offered by Saluc. My understanding is they bought the equipment form Hyatt and were taught how to make the balls by former Hyatt employees; thus the comparison to the older Centennials.
True, but conditions in very dry climates like here in the high desert of Colorado change quickly/Quickly as do table play conditons when a front moves thru quickly, hell even after a cold dry snow, when it starts melting quickly, play conditions change Dramatically. Dry air when compared to damp air is like night and day when outside weather changes are coming in.
The only event I ever won when all the pros were also in attendance, as it was just after Reno, was in Palm Springs in Summer of 89. When I arrived that summer it was Well over 118 plus degrees. with a high of 123...that was back in the day when Jeff Carter was touring/playing well and had a White Toyota van to sleep in. Since it was ninety five degrees before sunup he had to rent a room
I also remember years ago a pool room in MN, they used the Willards Ball Cleaner after EVERY use of a ball set, it was automatic. Back then williard used a Wool pad, boy did that make the Centennials Porus. After two hours of play the balls were sooooooooooooooo Dirty, I could wipe and create a noticeable clean line on em with a wet finger. These were the most porus balls I've ever played also, played once at a room with centennials that were too old/played out and lost their elasticity, boy did they play different.
Being in the the Palm Springs desert they had swamp coolers, so by noon they Ran full tilt moisture into the ballroom, conditions changed EVERY hour. It got tooooooo hot/humid in the ballroom in the finals with the crowd....I had to dbl dip my opponent, we got a fifteen minute break between matches. I ran up to my room, took a cold shower, left my hair wet, went back into the ballroom and finished my business. Moisture, dirt and four days of play, conditions are Always in constant change, but those swamp coolers when they kicked in WOW.:yikes:
I was at that Palm Springs tourney. The heat was crazy. You played great. Also saw a great match, 1pocket on the bar box, between Jeff Carter and Ronnie Alan. Jeff had Ronnie going nuts with his cleaver play.
Originally Posted by filluptieu View Post
"I used a digital food scale so this is the most accurate scale in the world"
I think you over-reached with the above as electronic food scales are hardly the "most accurate" scales, even a Cusinart.
What do you use to calibrate your scale periodically for the grams & ounce settings? All scales need periodic calibrating.
As power source supply diminishes gradually, like with any electronic instrument, the reading accuracy also suffers.
These electronic food scales are inexpensive (under $30) and not that accurate but good enuf for food measuring.
I employ a set of ANSI approved stainless steel weights (24 weights in grams & ounces) to calibrate my Ohaus weight scale.
In my work, I use dry & wet polymers and coagulants and accuracy is essential for waste water testing & dosage determinations.
The scale I use for work weight measures down to the hundreds of a gram weight and up to 5.5 lbs.
.
While your electronic scale is not accurate for very low weight measurements, i.e., you shouldn't get any reading if the item being
weighed was only 1/2 gram or 3/4 gram and sometimes even 1 gram. And the scale also rounds up its readings. The weight
contacts were not designed for such precision but rather for food measurement. But the good news is that as the weight increases,
the accuracy becomes reliable and is trustworthy to better than 98+% accuracy. Chances are you readings are pretty accurate since
the weights of the pool balls are individually well over 100 grams apiece.
"I used a digital food scale so this is the most accurate scale in the world"
I think you over-reached with the above as electronic food scales are hardly the "most accurate" scales, even a Cusinart.
What do you use to calibrate your scale periodically for the grams & ounce settings? All scales need periodic calibrating.
As power source supply diminishes gradually, like with any electronic instrument, the reading accuracy also suffers.
These electronic food scales are inexpensive (under $30) and not that accurate but good enuf for food measuring.
I employ a set of ANSI approved stainless steel weights (24 weights in grams & ounces) to calibrate my Ohaus weight scale.
In my work, I use dry & wet polymers and coagulants and accuracy is essential for waste water testing & dosage determinations.
The scale I use for work weight measures down to the hundreds of a gram weight and up to 5.5 lbs.
.
While your electronic scale is not accurate for very low weight measurements, i.e., you shouldn't get any reading if the item being
weighed was only 1/2 gram or 3/4 gram and sometimes even 1 gram. And the scale also rounds up its readings. The weight
contacts were not designed for such precision but rather for food measurement. But the good news is that as the weight increases,
the accuracy becomes reliable and is trustworthy to better than 98+% accuracy. Chances are you readings are pretty accurate since
the weights of the pool balls are individually well over 100 grams apiece.
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Actually, gunpowder and other ammunition components are measured in grains (not metric), of which there are 7000 in a pound. My scale is accurate to 0.05 grains, meaning you do not have to use the metric scale for genuinely accurate results. Go USA!
I'm going to ask a ridiculously stupid question from this ridiculously ancient thread but I need an answer, so I'm going to bow down to the knowledge-laden denizens of the AZ Forum.
"Which ball set is considered the Cyclops set?"
Sorry to dig up an old thread but we are in the market for a new set to play with while at Hawaiian Brian's, because all of the sets there have amazingly small/light cueballs and we are tired of playing a Billiard-related version of pinball with them. Thank you in advance for your time and information, hope everyone had a great Easter and in true pool player fashion you didn't find one egg or eat one chocolate bunny.
Cheers,
Neil
"Which ball set is considered the Cyclops set?"
Sorry to dig up an old thread but we are in the market for a new set to play with while at Hawaiian Brian's, because all of the sets there have amazingly small/light cueballs and we are tired of playing a Billiard-related version of pinball with them. Thank you in advance for your time and information, hope everyone had a great Easter and in true pool player fashion you didn't find one egg or eat one chocolate bunny.
Cheers,
Neil
The Cyclop balls come in a traditional set of colors and a TV set, popularly known as the "Skittles" colored set. Both are Cyclop.
Lou Figueroa
I tip my hat to the both of you for the information on the ball set, plus not ridiculing the post for being somewhat ignorant ha ha.
Neil
Neil
I was ignorant once...and will be again I'm sure. :thumbup:
That is terrible for sets of premium balls that sell for hundreds of dollars.
If they have such a range on the weight and they cannot adjust the manufacturing to tighter tolerances then they could at least weigh each and every ball post manufacture and make "matched" sets.
If you are making a run of 200 sets than make 200 of each ball, weigh each ball, and then make a set of 167 gram balls, a set of 168 gram balls, a set of 169 grams balls, ect... There are machines in manufacturing that can do this automatically to extremely precise tolerances and auto sort things. You make a run of 200 5-balls and it will separate all of the 167 gram, 168 gram, 169 gram, and any outliers that do not meet the standards of any of the sets (in to categories, higher then 169, and lower then 167).
When the set is put together put a little sticker on the box that says (167) or (168) or (169) and that tells the person buying the $300 set of balls what the weight of each ball in the set was weighed out to be.
That would be a fair compromise to quality control and at least offer properly matched sets where each ball in a set is almost exactly the same weight (>0.5 gram differences per a ball).
TBH if they did this they would not only get props from the pool playing community for having the most accurate weight matched sets of pool balls, but they would also likely get a huge amount of hype and discussion among the pool players on which sets people thoughts were the best (167, or 168, or 169) and which people most enjoyed playing with. Real aficionados would likely grab different sets to play with and test out what they like the best and how the playing characteristics differ between the sets.
For a premium set of balls that cost a premium amount of money the above should be common practice, these already "SHOULD" be getting matched up with the weight of the set you are purchasing being advertised on the box.
Well, it can also be argued that +-1% is already much more accurate than the control on inflation pressure of NFL footballs.
How accurate does the weight have to be so that it doesn't affect play? That depends on the ability of the player. For the vast majority of pool players 1% is already overkill considering how poorly they play position if they even play position.
For players who do play position well, it can start to make a difference.
In the last article in this group http://www.sfbilliards.com/articles/2005.pdf is a discussion of how much a light/heavy cue ball can affect the distance of simple straight draw and follow. Usually those differences come from the unequal wear on the balls which is a lot more than the manufacturing errors and is the cause of this thread (small cue balls at Hawaiian Brian's).
However, I do think it would be an interesting marketing technique to offer matched balls. I have heard that for big carom tournaments Aramith does a special bounce test and selects the most elastic (low loss) balls to be special tournaments balls.
As for measuring how well balls match, I think a simple mechanical balance would work well with a small set of half-gram or tenth-gram weights to find the differences. I suppose you might even be able to see if a ball was off-center by turning it on the scale.
Is your home town Vegas? Or a similarly bone dry climate? If not, then something is different.
Is your home town pool hall a multi thousand square foot convention center with commercial air conditioning? If not, then something is different.
Does your home town pool hall recover the tables every week with brand new Simonis? If not then something is different.
Are the balls at your local pool hall brand new every week or so? If not, then something is different.
Food for thought...
KMRUNOUT
All of the Big money events starting with the Carom Room 8 Ball, will now feature The Aramith Duramith Tournament Balls. Excellent ball sets and as you noted, VERY consistent.
Ray