how do you break in one pocket?
- Thread starter deanoc
- Start date
From on the headstring a ball’s width or two off the side rail, with maximum inside spin, aim as if to cut the head ball toward the first diamond above my pocket, just fast enough to leave the CB on the long rail 1-2 diamonds below the side pocket.
Easy peasy.
pj
chgo
Same. Let's just say I'm aiming between the 1st and second ball. If I scratch I hit too much of the 1st ball.
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Our tables roll a bit fast and the wing ball usually leaks too far over for my taste. Normally, I'll use the 14.1 style break and leave the cb uptable close to the head rail while pushing 3-4 balls over to my side.
Works well. I like that side rail break allot too.
Anybody ever kick off the foot rail freezing whitey under the rack while driving several balls over to your side uptable?
Works well. I like that side rail break allot too.
Anybody ever kick off the foot rail freezing whitey under the rack while driving several balls over to your side uptable?
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At thos time, there have been more than 13,486 games of 1p played and it is confirmed that the conventional break is best.
Nice description, fits the example above except the cue ball position. I can't break good right next to the rail like that. I prefer 2 ball widths if not more if I'm
leaking a corner ball.
The secret to the break is learning how to read the rack.
I think it’s important to read the table also.
I’ve seen players breaking to the wrong pocket and giving up the edge of the break.
What makes it the right pocket? I seriously ask this because as a southpaw I like it when
I play right handed people. But am known to change pockets just to throw the rightys off.
I don't give to much credence to the side of the table, if it rolls true there should be not
much difference.
I've played on tables where there was serious east-west drift. Not recently, though.
I break to the left pocket but I've heard I'm supposed to break to the right pocket. I suppose the advantage is that I can put my hand on the table better, but the real reason is that I used to play in a room where there was a post that made banks to the right pocket a lot harder.
If the table is great, like tournament conditions, you can break to the pocket that favors you.
But most room conditions, the table is not perfect. Tables develope their own ‘personality’,
and the table leans one way or the other. And billiard mechanics aren’t perfect either....
...sometimes a pocket plays tougher than another.
I am also over six foot, so shooting either pocket might not be such a hindrance to myself.
When it is my time to break, I tend to break to take the advantage away from a right handed player.
But back to the topic, high inside to kill the cue ball. Starting spot for the cue is about 3/4 of a diamond
on the headstring.
Aim to split the head ball and second, and adjust to hit more or less depending on
how the table is spreading...
When it is my time to break, I tend to break to take the advantage away from a right handed player.
But back to the topic, high inside to kill the cue ball. Starting spot for the cue is about 3/4 of a diamond
on the headstring.
Aim to split the head ball and second, and adjust to hit more or less depending on
how the table is spreading...
Breaking in One Pocket can be difficult but this may give you one way to start. Since I don't have a table diagram, these numbers will represent balls. The 2, 4, 7, 11 balls are on the right side as you view while breaking.
-----1
----23
---456
--7890
-12345
Lets assume you have the left pocket and are breaking from the right side. The most common break is hitting the head ball (1 ball) very thin on the right side with high, extreme left English. The cue ball then hits the 2 ball and the cue ball goes to the foot rail then rebounds to the second diamond on the long right rail.
The 10, 14, 15, etc., tend to go towards your pocket.
Now the most important part... How do you keep the 7, 11, and 12 balls from going towards the opponents (right) pocket so they have an easy return shot. Actually it's very easy ... most of the time.
Put the cue ball about one ball width from the side rail when breaking. This is the key... make sure the 3, 6, 10 balls are frozen to EACH other. If they are not request a rerack.
Try this several times as a starting point to see how it works for you. All tables play a little different but hopefully this gives you a good start.
-----1
----23
---456
--7890
-12345
Lets assume you have the left pocket and are breaking from the right side. The most common break is hitting the head ball (1 ball) very thin on the right side with high, extreme left English. The cue ball then hits the 2 ball and the cue ball goes to the foot rail then rebounds to the second diamond on the long right rail.
The 10, 14, 15, etc., tend to go towards your pocket.
Now the most important part... How do you keep the 7, 11, and 12 balls from going towards the opponents (right) pocket so they have an easy return shot. Actually it's very easy ... most of the time.
Put the cue ball about one ball width from the side rail when breaking. This is the key... make sure the 3, 6, 10 balls are frozen to EACH other. If they are not request a rerack.
Try this several times as a starting point to see how it works for you. All tables play a little different but hopefully this gives you a good start.
You already know...but
Deanoc,
If you are asking, "How do you break playing Onepocket at Ck's on Skillman & 635"?
This can be a very complicated answer.
And, you have to consider all of the information below.
1. Which table are you playing on?
2. The balls are older than dirt.
3. The balls are "out of round" with each other.
4. Therefore, They don't rack tight.
5. Therefore, They don't break apart with consistency.
6. Some tables there actually have different size corner pockets.
7. Some tables the banks roll in toward the pocket...while the other side rolls out, away from the pocket, especially when the ball is slowing down.
I think you already knew all of that.
And you play enough one pocket to know how to break.
But, to those who are reading this, who don't know.
These are several reasons why your traditional break isn't working from poolroom to poolroom.
Ok....I'll add 3 more reasons just to make it an even 10.
8. Is it raining outside?....This will make a difference, especially in the south.
9. If you are using all in "Inside English" that you can...you better not miss the head ball and hit the 2nd ball full...or it will look like you are breaking 8 ball.
10. Finally, I would learn at least 3 different breaks and use the one that works at the poolroom you are in right now.
We all know the break is important...But, "How do you get out of the Break" is more important...….no more free tips from me today...it's to cold and rainy.
Play good people,
Karate-
Deanoc,
If you are asking, "How do you break playing Onepocket at Ck's on Skillman & 635"?
This can be a very complicated answer.
And, you have to consider all of the information below.
1. Which table are you playing on?
2. The balls are older than dirt.
3. The balls are "out of round" with each other.
4. Therefore, They don't rack tight.
5. Therefore, They don't break apart with consistency.
6. Some tables there actually have different size corner pockets.
7. Some tables the banks roll in toward the pocket...while the other side rolls out, away from the pocket, especially when the ball is slowing down.
I think you already knew all of that.
And you play enough one pocket to know how to break.
But, to those who are reading this, who don't know.
These are several reasons why your traditional break isn't working from poolroom to poolroom.
Ok....I'll add 3 more reasons just to make it an even 10.
8. Is it raining outside?....This will make a difference, especially in the south.
9. If you are using all in "Inside English" that you can...you better not miss the head ball and hit the 2nd ball full...or it will look like you are breaking 8 ball.
10. Finally, I would learn at least 3 different breaks and use the one that works at the poolroom you are in right now.
We all know the break is important...But, "How do you get out of the Break" is more important...….no more free tips from me today...it's to cold and rainy.
Play good people,
Karate-
Here's how that looks. This is a good outcome for a few reasons:
1. cue ball close to side rail, restricting opponent's cueing, good position on rail for maximum protection from rack
2. no balls "leaked" toward opponent's pocket (it's pretty rare that none even move that way)
3. balls on both sides of your pocket (one a dead combo) make opponent's safeties harder
4. no easy banks for opponent
I'd be real happy with this break.
pj
chgo
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