I use 12.25mm - 12.75mm shafts with either Le Pro, Triangle, or pooldawg8 milkdud tips on my McD D-1, my Pechauer Sneaky, and my Rick Howard. I shape them to a dime when new and rarely do anything but a light scuff every now and then, and I use Blue Diamond chalk lightly painted on like lipstick.Just as a point of curiosity, I wonder if there is a demonstrable concences (assuming uniform shaft diameter/player technique) re: which shape plays better...dime or nickel?
Just as a point of curiosity, I wonder if there is a demonstrable concences (assuming uniform shaft diameter/player technique) re: which shape plays better...dime or nickel?
Just as a point of curiosity, I wonder if there is a demonstrable concences (assuming uniform shaft diameter/player technique) re: which shape plays better...dime or nickel?
When you play as well as he, you can overcome such lunacy.This is a picture taken of Johann Chua' s cue tip in Japan earlier this year. I think Jeffrey Ignacio shapes his like this as well.
Just as a point of curiosity, I wonder if there is a demonstrable concences (assuming uniform shaft diameter/player technique) re: which shape plays better...dime or nickel?
This is a picture taken of Johann Chua' s cue tip in Japan earlier this year. I think Jeffrey Ignacio shapes his like this as well.
Guess I’ll toss my ‘nickel profile’ shaper. The ability to manipulate with english (IMO) would far outshadow any ‘center ball’ accuracy advantage.
That's closer to a dime shape. You can (and will) impart more english to the cue ball but it takes a more precise hit as well. The nickel radius might give you a little more power through the cue ball.
One more thing that might be of interest in looking at this photo. Believe it or not, you do not have to scuff the very top dead center of the tip at all. It can be left virtually flat and will still give you a nice solid hit. It's on the sides or edges of the cue tip that miscues happen and that is why it's so important to scuff (and chalk) that area properly. I learned this years ago from Al Romero who always had a little flat spot on the middle of his tip. He chalked it of course, but he did not rough it up there. Try it, you may like it.
I let mine settle out to the shape of a Farthing. To me, it's ideal for a tip.
All the best,
WW
That's closer to a dime shape. You can (and will) impart more english to the cue ball but it takes a more precise hit as well. The nickel radius might give you a little more power through the cue ball.
One more thing that might be of interest in looking at this photo. Believe it or not, you do not have to scuff the very top dead center of the tip at all. It can be left virtually flat and will still give you a nice solid hit. It's on the sides or edges of the cue tip that miscues happen and that is why it's so important to scuff (and chalk) that area properly. I learned this years ago from Al Romero who always had a little flat spot on the middle of his tip. He chalked it of course, but he did not rough it up there. Try it, you may like it.