How To Level The Base Frame? (Gold Crown I)

jviss

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Whne one is building a Gold Crown I, how is the base frame leveled, and how level should it be?

I'm planning on tearing down and rebuilding my Gold Crown I since it was assembled so poorly by the movers, and supposed mechanics.

Once I get down to the base frame, how long a straight edge will I need for checking for high and low spots on the frame? Will I have to flatten it, using a plane, per the GC manual, or would you think that's been done already, once and for all?

What techniques should be employed to level the frame, and how picky should I be? Will I need an 8' level? Can this be done with a caprenter's level of 2', 4', 6'? Need I employ my machinist's level?

Thanks very much,

jv

p.s. what do you think those slates weigh?
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Whne one is building a Gold Crown I, how is the base frame leveled, and how level should it be?

I'm planning on tearing down and rebuilding my Gold Crown I since it was assembled so poorly by the movers, and supposed mechanics.

Once I get down to the base frame, how long a straight edge will I need for checking for high and low spots on the frame? Will I have to flatten it, using a plane, per the GC manual, or would you think that's been done already, once and for all?

What techniques should be employed to level the frame, and how picky should I be? Will I need an 8' level? Can this be done with a caprenter's level of 2', 4', 6'? Need I employ my machinist's level?

Thanks very much,

jv

p.s. what do you think those slates weigh?

I'm not a mechanic but you would want to get the frame as level as possible using a machinist's level to minimize shimming of the slates. I think each slate weighs in around 200-250 pounds.
 

jviss

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thank you for that. I am thinking I would flatten if first, i.e., take out any high spots, using a straight edge and plane, after it's "rough leveled" (i.e. using a long carpenter's level), and then get it as level as possible with the machinist's level once that's done.
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thank you for that. I am thinking I would flatten if first, i.e., take out any high spots, using a straight edge and plane, after it's "rough leveled" (i.e. using a long carpenter's level), and then get it as level as possible with the machinist's level once that's done.

Having a flat frame certainly wouldn't hurt.
 

jviss

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Having a flat frame certainly wouldn't hurt.

Yes, that is one of the steps in the Brunswick installation book. I don't know if it was ever done on mine. I have found other things that weren't done. like screwing the ball storage box into the foot rail. So, who knows?
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
...like screwing the ball storage box into the foot rail. So, who knows?

This varies based on when in the production your table was manufactured. My ball box is not screwed into the foot rail. It is fasted with the same aluminum bosses as the aprons.
 

jviss

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This varies based on when in the production your table was manufactured. My ball box is not screwed into the foot rail. It is fasted with the same aluminum bosses as the aprons.

Yea, mine isn't, it has the pilot holes for the screws, but no screw holes in the rail, and no aluminum things to secure it. It's just held in with the two wood screws going horizontally into the base frame.

How does one determine the date of manufacture? Is it stamped somewhere?
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Yea, mine isn't, it has the pilot holes for the screws, but no screw holes in the rail, and no aluminum things to secure it. It's just held in with the two wood screws going horizontally into the base frame.

How does one determine the date of manufacture? Is it stamped somewhere?

Unfortunately, it is not. Dating is just a guesstimate based on features it has/doesn't have such as metal nameplate, adjustable feet, floating nut plates in the rails vs figure 8's, shorter apron mounting bosses, etc.
 

rikdee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Yea, mine isn't, it has the pilot holes for the screws, but no screw holes in the rail, and no aluminum things to secure it. It's just held in with the two wood screws going horizontally into the base frame.

How does one determine the date of manufacture? Is it stamped somewhere?

I would definitely think that table would be early to mid 60s. My first GCI had the same design for ball storage box installation along with figure 8 nut plates, full length aluminum apron extrusions, and non-level feet. Early build for sure.
 

rexus31

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I would definitely think that table would be early to mid 60s. My first GCI had the same design for ball storage box installation along with figure 8 nut plates, full length aluminum apron extrusions, and non-level feet. Early build for sure.

I agree 100%.
 
Top