Well that's a relief.
Had visions of some sort of high pressure blasting away to get the chips out or it wouldn't work. Good to hear it's not that complicated. Also the ball park lower rpms suggested (500-ish) will work well with my set up.
I have no idea how you might think of rotating the drill. You don't need to be an expert on things my papa always told me but you should know enough about it to ask good questions of those who are. Have you seen a gun drill setup?
Obviously why i'm asking here - you guys know how it works in the wood whirrled, i haven't a clue.
There's 4 working lathes here but they are all small ones. (9 - 10"), short beds except the SB 10K tiny spindle 54" bed which "just" fits a cue butt or shaft between centers. So can either make this a long term project and plane up a long bed for gun drill use with a couple Hardinge headstocks at each end, one on a sliding section. Or, short term, add to my planer tooling/set ups. If the drill does not need to rotate, then a simple pivot holder to go on the toolslide to hold the drill and align it. On the table, Hardinge headstock with chucks on both ends. Bushing holder mount in front.
Basically, went to local surplus shop to get some small tools to modify for a 2 man chainsaw I am modding to take modern chain (make a new sprocket, build new clutch parts). They had racks of gun drills. Can you say kid in a candy store?
I keep reading on here about coring work.
As a woodworker, it makes perfect sense. Just never had a set up to do it. So getting advice and working that direction.
Several people contacted me about 6 point FS rosewood/curly blank that really needs cored, so that is current initiative. Though in a long line of other projects, sigh.
Thanks for the advice!
smt