New Cue Build: Feedback requested

orion21

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So - after playing with this design for quite a while, this is what I landed on. Mike Gulyassy will be making this one. I had some questions or solicited feedback. I'm going for "classic-modern"

-I have Birdseye on the forearm but was thinking of straight grain maple instead.
-I added the dots to fill in the sleeve a little - any other ideas here? I thought they were a fairly classic item seen in old
-Any thoughts on the length of the butt cap, or ratio of forearm to handle?
-Do you think the check rings are too thick?

Any feedback is appreciated.

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Canadian cue

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Nice classic design, the only change I would go with and this is my personal taste would be to add matching rings to the joint as well.
 

orion21

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hah - so I had that modeled before this as a 4 point with rings at the joint and plain grain maple .....

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Mike made me a really nice shaft for my Schon - so my debate is to use a schon pin or his typical which is a 3/8 modified 10. I was trying to save some $. Still debating.
 

Bavafongoul

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
You Asked For Design Feedback

The wood choice requires the cue-maker to help decide since he has the two woods to closely look at.
Birdseye is my all time favorite and the right wood can be spectacular looking more so than maple.

The sleeve and butt cap are proportioned fine. Attached is a photo of the sleeve I designed for my Owen
cue. A smaller butt cap, especially when it can be ivory like mine, really looks great. I also added my initials.

The dots in the sleeve is a personal choice. If it were my cue, I’d replace the dots with small matching
diamond inlays. But I’d ask Mike to use fancy etched diamonds that I think look so much better than
solid diamond inlays. The small diamonds would also be etched. Attached is a copy of my Prewitt cue’s
sleeve that used lots of small fancy etched ivory diamonds.

The rings look alright but tightening up the spacing and making the size of the squares smaller renders it
more in line with a traditional Bushka look which I favor but it is purely a question of taste. but one thing
I would alter is the collar ring to also match the Bushka rings below.

The length of the forearm should be proportionate to the wrap and unless you specify something special,
just tell Mike what wrap you want (Cartland #9 would be my selection) and he will space proportion the 29” butt.

I think a solitary inlay sitting in a ebony point looks better when it is a propellor, fancy peacock, fancy
etched diamond and such as but a solid diamond looks like something is missing. That’s why I suggested
going with a fancy etched diamond instead and make it large but still size proportional. Mike has a keen
eye for that kind of stuff. My preference would be to also include a couple of dots to decorate the forearm
inlay and attached are some photos to illustrate. I have to switch computers to post pics so I will update this post.


Matt B.
 

orion21

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Great advice - he mentioned the more classic notched points immediately when I showed him the first design. I did try adding dots above and below the main diamonds in the forearm but then I took them back out. More to think about..........

That's 2 votes for the rings at the joint........

He put a regular white w/black Blue Mountain wrap on my Schon, and I planned on doing the same here.
 
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Bavafongoul

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Here's some photos to illustrate the suggestions I presented but cue design is always a matter of.......

"Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder."


The two sleeves on the far right are ivory and not surprisingly, are smaller than the others.
It had to be done to achieve cue weight and all of the butts in this photo weigh 14.5 ounces.

The two forearm photos of fancy etched diamonds illustrate how the size of the inlay diamonds can vary
based upon the number of dots used. One cue uses 3 dots while the other uses 5 so different size inlays.
Typically a fancy peacock inlay is enough alone but I feel that embracing it with dots looks better overall.
And as you can see, all of my cue designs have more than a single inlay in the forearm's ebony points.

My EP cue incorporates smaller fancy etched diamonds in the sleeve which is what I suggested you
consider using instead of dots and a solid diamond inlay. Personallizing your cue design is a real treat.
In any event, here's a photo of my cues I carry in a 6x12 cue case and all of them are big pin flat ivory.
I still haven't been able to come up with a favorite but I do know my Scruggs cue plays a little differently.


Matt B.
 

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  • Jerry R. Forearms.jpg
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  • Owen Forearm.jpg
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  • 6 Ivory Cues.jpg
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Mikey Town

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If this were my cue, I'd go with notched diamonds... just personal preference.

Also, if you were to keep the dots in the sleeve where they are, but connect them with matching veneer from the points (making them barbells), I think that would be a great look. It seems like you have two bright veneer colors in the points... you could alternate those colors (green/blue/green/blue... or whatever your colors are) in the barbells.

Always a fan of bringing the veneer colors into the butt sleeve somehow. I think cues feel more cohesive that way.

If you happen to not like barbells, disregard the entirety of this post. LOL
 

Koop

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Pretty cue. I love the veneer colors.
I would go highly figured BEM over straight grain but that's just a personal preference. Don't think you can go wrong either way
 

orion21

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So a couple updates: First couple are simply reducing the check count to 10/10 (it was 12/12 not sure why) and made the width of the ring a little thinner:

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Then I changed all the diamonds to the more classic. I left the joint ring as-is, because I feel like I'm losing some of the "modern" in my idea for "modern classic"

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Bavafongoul

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
The only tweak I'd make, but this is your design, is something I earlier suggested.
Etched diamond, fancy peacock or propellor inlays look okay alone but IMO. they'd
look better if dots were inserted above & below. You use a single etched diamond.
The sleeve already incorporates dots & diamonds as its overall theme so I believe
copying it in the ebony points is a much better balance of the cue's features. I'd go
with the 3 dot approach: 1 dot above & 2 dots below the etched diamond.....JMO.

Matt B.
 
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greyghost

Coast to Coast
Silver Member
So - after playing with this design for quite a while, this is what I landed on. Mike Gulyassy will be making this one. I had some questions or solicited feedback. I'm going for "classic-modern"



-I have Birdseye on the forearm but was thinking of straight grain maple instead.

-I added the dots to fill in the sleeve a little - any other ideas here? I thought they were a fairly classic item seen in old

-Any thoughts on the length of the butt cap, or ratio of forearm to handle?

-Do you think the check rings are too thick?



Any feedback is appreciated.



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Yes they need to be thin for the win good sir


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Jon Manning

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
It’s always fun tinkering with design and watching it all come together!
Personally, these are some of the changes I would make.
1) I love straight grain maple in the nose, providing the maker has some good old tight grain to use.
2) Would definitely go with the notched diamonds.
3) With the dots in the butt, I would either add more or make them barbells.
4) If the butt has dots so does the nose, as above so below.
5) The nickel ring at the joint would be the same thickness as used in the rest of the rings.
6) Butt should be 4” total. I would go with a 1” butt cap or change the joint and cap to .5”. But, I think it looks best when joint and butt cap are the same length, again, as above so below.

That’s what I would do anyways, really design is so subjective. Do what feels right! As a general rule, I always discuss the little shit with the maker. When you have a good maker they should steer you in the right direction especially when it comes to length and spacing issues, because for a cue to look right all the spacing need to be correct or it just won’t look right.
Wish you the best with this cue!

JCM
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Beautiful design. The width of the rings is of course what is pleasing to you. Here is one with rings .050 and one with .025. Hope it helps.

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orion21

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I think the difference is that the rings I modeled don't have anything between them and the nickel ring - but I think the nickel to nickel distance is the same as your top pic (my current model is set to .080 check ring)

This is all great feedback!
 

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Nice looking classic design, maybe choose a ring design wich isn`t that similar to the Schon stitch ring design?
 

j2pac

Marital Slow Learner.
Staff member
Moderator
Gold Member
Silver Member
So - after playing with this design for quite a while, this is what I landed on. Mike Gulyassy will be making this one. I had some questions or solicited feedback. I'm going for "classic-modern"

-I have Birdseye on the forearm but was thinking of straight grain maple instead.
-I added the dots to fill in the sleeve a little - any other ideas here? I thought they were a fairly classic item seen in old
-Any thoughts on the length of the butt cap, or ratio of forearm to handle?
-Do you think the check rings are too thick?

Any feedback is appreciated.

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Nice looking cue. Ditch the metal rings, imho. :) Good luck.
 

thoffen

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Looks great. All the options are personal preference. Had it been me, I would have wanted: Birdseye handle, +dots, notched diamonds, thinner rings, longer buttsleve (doesn't look particularly better IMO but is more fitting with a classic cue design)
 

Sealegs50

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Very nice cue. The switch to notched diamonds was a good idea, IMO. Congratulations. Have fun with it.
 
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