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strmanglr scott
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11-13-2019, 08:11 AM

Never heard a break cue should weigh less than your player.

I have a Rage break cue, weighs 25oz. Breaks phenominal. I just pulled it up on Ozone, 30, 5 star ratings and no other ratings.

It has a weight bolt. I pulled it and played with it at the lighter weight but eventually went back to the weight bolt in.


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11-13-2019, 08:40 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrctherake View Post
To be honest, you shouldn't worry about a new cue.

I'm not perfect either but, it sounds like you need to work on your stance, grip and bridge hand etc...etc.....everything that leads to a straight stroke.

After you get ^^^^^^^^^ in check as best you can, evaluate your break again. You may find you don't need a new break cue.

Jeff
^^^^^that is the best advise you can get. So the work on your technique first. Yes, some equipment allows you to hit using slightly less power to get a nice spread which leads to a better accuracy. But still you need a good stroke to be consistenly successful on the break. Good luck)


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mikemosconi
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11-13-2019, 08:54 AM

I would say that an equipment change is the last thing someone should look for when trying to improve some part of their game- I am Not saying that an equipment change should be out of the question. However, I think for the "break" aspect of rotation games or 8 ball- the primary considerations are to pocket at least ONE object ball AND, equally important- keep that cue ball as close to the table center as possible- to give maximum ability to STAY on the table or play the best safe possible with ANY ball on the table.
Making one ball on the break and staying center table with the cue have little to do with breaking equipment in my opinion. I advise finding the right mix of stroke, speed, aiming, and body coordination including your TIMING of cue delivery to the cue ball with the CORRECT body parts in sync and RELAXED - work on all that stuff first- if you are still unhappy- try a new break equipment set up.

I know people who break way better than me and they just use a house cue- their timing and technique is just beyond my present capabilities- some of it is just natural for them- I can improve mine and learn by watching how they do it- but I am not them! A new break cue would not help me.
  
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11-13-2019, 09:14 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemosconi View Post
. I advise finding the right mix of stroke, speed, aiming, and body coordination including your TIMING of cue delivery to the cue ball with the CORRECT body parts in sync
.
I agree with that big time and feel thats why my breaking is better than ever
Timing speed aiming and body coordination


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11-13-2019, 10:18 AM

.



Wood is pretty much dead.

Just got 14mm carbon fiber in and maybe in a week or so I'll whip something up.


Carbon fiber is great and cheap. Heck, I see people selling carbon fiber blanks for only

$75 now which means they pay around $25. Probably cost around $20 to finish one off.




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11-13-2019, 10:41 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrctherake View Post
To be honest, you shouldn't worry about a new cue.

I'm not perfect either but, it sounds like you need to work on your stance, grip and bridge hand etc...etc.....everything that leads to a straight stroke.

After you get ^^^^^^^^^ in check as best you can, evaluate your break again. You may find you don't need a new break cue.

Jeff


Perhaps AK would be better served breaking wit playing cue, given his break speed and the increased control on offer?
  
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11-13-2019, 10:44 AM

I love my dymondwood jump/break by Alex Brick. It breaks and jumps fabulously. However, I am going to try carbon fiber. Gotta scratch that itch!


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11-13-2019, 11:13 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by strmanglr scott View Post
Never heard a break cue should weigh less than your player.
Breaker is 18 oz
Player is 21 oz



.

Run racks, not your mouth.

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11-13-2019, 11:43 AM

I don't find purpleheart shafts as better for breaking.

I think a 13.5mm stiff maple makes for great breaking shafts.
Don't go with a break jump.
Just get a dedicated breaker. Heavy up front and light handle.
Makes snapping a little easier.


  
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BC21
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11-13-2019, 12:24 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AkGuy View Post
What is the best wood for a break cue shaft, maple, purple heart, etc.?

How about the joint? Is the Uni Loc a good choice or another all metal joint?

Seems like every one has their preference's on weight and tip diameter.
Hard tip, light weight, and stroke speed. Put these things together with any wood type and you have a good jump cue. I once made a video using a 3/8" poplar dowel rod from Lowe's with no tip to jump balls from half inch to 5 or 6 inches away.

For short quick hops, when the obstructing ball is anywhere from about half an inch to 7 or 8 inches from the cb, and the ball or target you are jumping to hit is less than 2 feet away, then a very light jump cue works best, anywhere between about 3 to 6 oz. The cb hops up at a steep angle to clear the obstruction but has little forward momentum when it lands, so if the target is more than about 2 feet out the cb might not have enough speed to send the ob to a rail after contact.

If the obstructing ball is a more than 7 or 8 inches away from the cb, then a standard jump cue weighing around 8 to 9 oz can be used easily. This is the weight range of most jump cues. The jump portion of most jump-break cues tends to be too heavy (9oz or more) for a good short range jump cue. They work great as long as the cb isn't too close to the obstructing ball. When the cb is very close to the obstruction, a dedicated light jump cue works much better.

None of this means that one wood grain might or might not be a fraction better for jumping due to better energy transfer, but I think it's such a fine line that weight and speed trumps any wood type.


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11-13-2019, 12:47 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by KCRack'em View Post
I love my dymondwood jump/break by Alex Brick. It breaks and jumps fabulously. However, I am going to try carbon fiber. Gotta scratch that itch!
Yeah, you should sell that Brick cue to help finance the new cue. I mean, I'll take it off your hands only because it's just about worthless now and I want to help lol


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Unhappy Breaking - 11-13-2019, 02:36 PM

I have the Predator Break App on my phone, it shows I rarely hit 20 mph. Usually in the 18 mph range.
  
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11-13-2019, 02:49 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AkGuy View Post
I have the Predator Break App on my phone, it shows I rarely hit 20 mph. Usually in the 18 mph range.
So??? Hitting it flush(cue ball and headball) is way more important than speed.
  
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11-13-2019, 03:03 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanB View Post
Just don't get caught up in the hype of thinking you must have a $700 BK Rush to have a good break. Something like a purple heart or diamond wood shaft combined with a white diamond tip will perform as good as most people need
Nobody needs any certain type wood, to break well.

All they need is a stroke that is:

Accurate

&

fast


The CF stuff adds a little energy but, like you said, "it's not needed"....not in the least.

Jeff


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11-13-2019, 03:16 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by AkGuy View Post
I have the Predator Break App on my phone, it shows I rarely hit 20 mph. Usually in the 18 mph range.
Doesn't matter how fast your cb is moving if your not hitting head ball pretty square..your not gonna do well.

Back off the speed speed a tad. Learn to hit cb and head ball first.

Jeff


I knew a fellow that thought he was a good boxer because he was in a position to befriend a lot of "professional boxers". It cost him azzwhippens till he realized he wasn't what he thought/wished he was.

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