Best way to roll forward just a bit on longer shots?

Black-Balled

AzB Silver Member
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This is one of those times when a rule of thumb comes in handy. The one I'm thinking of is the "1/6 follow" rule that Bob Jewett mentions occasionally: a rolling CB will follow a straight-hit OB about 1/6 of the distance the OB would travel without hitting a rail.

So in this case, if you hit the 13 ball at just pocket speed it will travel 5 diamonds and the rolling CB will travel 5/6 of a diamond. If you hit the 13 a little harder to be sure it gets to the pocket, the CB will travel a little farther.

pj
chgo

I will check your mathing when ini get home.
 

M.G.

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Punch the ball half tip above the center: stun run through.

Sorry so say, but that's not a stun-run-through. It's a normal follow shot.

Snooker players call it stun-follow.
The foundation is a stop shot...then you tweak it a bit....

I only know of stun-run-through.
But yes, your description is right: try a stop shot at 1/2 to 3/4 of the distance, then the CB starts to roll after that again.

Please use a proper instruction video for that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAL3tqqUNQw

I have started to do that more and more for these type of shots - accuracy has somewhat increased.

Cheerio,
M
 

Patrick Johnson

Fish of the Day
Silver Member
Punch the ball half tip above the center: stun run through.

Sorry so say, but that's not a stun-run-through. It's a normal follow shot.
The terminology for these things is still a little fluid, but I'd say it's all about what the CB is doing when it reaches the OB...

- if the CB is fully rolling (no sliding), it's normal follow
- if the CB is partially sliding with some forward rotation, it's stun-run-through

Both outcomes can be produced with more than one stroke speed and tip height - for instance, any hit from just above center to about 3/4 of maximum top will make the CB slide at least a little (more if hit firmly). It seems to me the stroke described above could produce a partially sliding ball at contact.

pj
chgo
 
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bbb

AzB Gold Member
Gold Member
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the way i think if it
when the power of the shot is greater than the distance the cue ball travels its stun run thru
 

mfinkelstein3

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Slight Follow

The way I shoot these shots is to aim for a stop shot. Get the speed in your arm for a dead center stop shot and then raise the butt of the cue up a little (how much depends on your stroke and the conditions), and shoot the shot. The added weight of the raised stick and/or the slight hop drifts the cue ball forward just a little.
 

BilliardsAbout

BondFanEvents.com
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Low and soft is a "drag shot" to me. Players seem to get in trouble hitting too hard, compromising the backspin or getting the opposite, draw on a shot where follow through impact is desired.
 

Black-Balled

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This is one of those times when a rule of thumb comes in handy. The one I'm thinking of is the "1/6 follow" rule that Bob Jewett mentions occasionally: a rolling CB will follow a straight-hit OB about 1/6 of the distance the OB would travel without hitting a rail.

So in this case, if you hit the 13 ball at just pocket speed it will travel 5 diamonds and the rolling CB will travel 5/6 of a diamond. If you hit the 13 a little harder to be sure it gets to the pocket, the CB will travel a little farther.

pj
chgo
I ended up with closer to 1:4, cb: ob.

It was weird, shooting an ob to the far rail. Prob a decent skill to improve upon.
 

book collector

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
If I lose , I don't ever want it to be because the table rolled off on me again.
Been there ,done that
I don't care if I miss shape by 3 table lengths, I'm not slow rollin, anything.
 

Bob Jewett

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I ended up with closer to 1:4, cb: ob.

It was weird, shooting an ob to the far rail. Prob a decent skill to improve upon.
I think the ratio will be larger if the balls are dirty and smaller if the cue ball is heavy. For short shots it's important to remember that the cue ball starts a ball back from the object ball's location.

Another related rule of thumb for one pocket is that if a ball is between the side pockets, a full-ball bank to your pocket the long way will leave the cue ball frozen to the far cushion. (But this depends a little on how springy the cushions are.)
 
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Bob Jewett

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If I lose , I don't ever want it to be because the table rolled off on me again.
Been there ,done that
I don't care if I miss shape by 3 table lengths, I'm not slow rollin, anything.
Or, it might be the object ball. I have an object ball that I can get to roll around a full-ball obscruction. You can't always blame RKC.;)
 

vinay

Registered
In the situation pictured, I prefer to use max topspin strike point with a small strike force. I find it easier to control distance with manipulation of speed, rather than a strike point.

It's a matter of personal preference of course, but I'd be wary of trying to play pocket speed from this distance. I'm going to set this situation up the next time I practice to try the various options a few times each to see which one I can do most consistently.
 

Scott Lee

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Draw-drag shots are hit at all speeds...not just "low and soft". It is a stroke shot that must be mastered at all speeds and distances to be a great player.

Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com

Low and soft is a "drag shot" to me. Players seem to get in trouble hitting too hard, compromising the backspin or getting the opposite, draw on a shot where follow through impact is desired.
 

sjm

Older and Wiser
Silver Member
Drag shot is the best option.

A drag shot is hit with backspin, but only so much that the CB makes the transition to forward rolling a couple inches before hitting OB.

Agreed. It's a shot that requires practice. Oddly enough, I've always called this stroke "drag follow" but others call it "drag draw".
 
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