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rexus31
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09-21-2019, 01:01 PM

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Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
Sure glad they don't use that method to do body repair on corvettes....LOL
Apples to oranges but thanks for your input.


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09-21-2019, 01:04 PM

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Originally Posted by xianmacx View Post
Glen, it's a plastic piece on a pool table that stays inside and gets no wear and tear. Next time a thread is started to rebuild a Corvette your comment will be very helpful.

Scott, looks great, thanks for sharing the process.
Thanks, Ian. I'm glad I was able help out a buddy in need. Although not "correct" to some, the repair is VERY sturdy and will perform nicely for the intended use. The sturdiness of the thin (think business card) cardboard allows the shape to take and stay in place. Using fiberglass mesh and resin would have made the repair more difficult, IMO.


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09-21-2019, 01:10 PM

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Originally Posted by xianmacx View Post
Glen, it's a plastic piece on a pool table that stays inside and gets no wear and tear. Next time a thread is started to rebuild a Corvette your comment will be very helpful.

Scott, looks great, thanks for sharing the process.
You know what, it's kind of like the person who spray paints his Gold Crown high gloss automotive black, then sits back looking at it thinking how beautiful it looks. Only thing is, in just a few years all that high gloss automotive black finish is going to look like shit because the paint is brittle, and won't support bonding to a structural surface that expands and contracts, so it develops spiderweb cracks all through the finish, and eventually starts peeling off. Whereas if a latex paint was used, it stretches with the wood surface, and contracts with it as well, so it never shows the same signs of the instability of an oil based paint. But, I suppose you're right, there's many ways of fixing things, I just prefer the best possible methods available so as to insure the best possible outcome.
  
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09-21-2019, 01:14 PM

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Originally Posted by rexus31 View Post
Thanks, Ian. I'm glad I was able help out a buddy in need. Although not "correct" to some, the repair is VERY sturdy and will perform nicely for the intended use. The sturdiness of the thin (think business card) cardboard allows the shape to take and stay in place. Using fiberglass mesh and resin would have made the repair more difficult, IMO.
That's why I use the fiberglass mesh to first start building out the missing area, then when its stable, cut back the excess. When done right, it's as strong as the original material, and can't ever tell it's been repaired.
  
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09-21-2019, 01:16 PM

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Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
You know what, it's kind of like the person who spray paints his Gold Crown high gloss automotive black, then sits back looking at it thinking how beautiful it looks. Only thing is, in just a few years all that high gloss automotive black finish is going to look like shit because the paint is brittle, and won't support bonding to a structural surface that expands and contracts, so it develops spiderweb cracks all through the finish, and eventually starts peeling off. Whereas if a latex paint was used, it stretches with the wood surface, and contracts with it as well, so it never shows the same signs of the instability of an oil based paint. But, I suppose you're right, there's many ways of fixing things, I just prefer the best possible methods available so as to insure the best possible outcome.
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09-21-2019, 01:19 PM

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Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
That's why I use the fiberglass mesh to first start building out the missing area, then when its stable, cut back the excess. When done right, it's as strong as the original material, and can't ever tell it's been repaired.
I hear you. This is very strong as well and once it is primed and painted, it won't be noticeable and will serve its purpose. More than one way to skin a cat I suppose. The areas in question will not even be seen once the table is assembled.


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09-21-2019, 01:26 PM

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Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
Sure glad they don't use that method to do body repair on corvettes....LOL
your are correct man.. since corvettes and pool tables are basically the same thing !! LMFAO


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09-21-2019, 01:31 PM

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Originally Posted by realkingcobra View Post
You know what, it's kind of like the person who spray paints his Gold Crown high gloss automotive black, then sits back looking at it thinking how beautiful it looks. Only thing is, in just a few years all that high gloss automotive black finish is going to look like shit because the paint is brittle, and won't support bonding to a structural surface that expands and contracts, so it develops spiderweb cracks all through the finish, and eventually starts peeling off. Whereas if a latex paint was used, it stretches with the wood surface, and contracts with it as well, so it never shows the same signs of the instability of an oil based paint. But, I suppose you're right, there's many ways of fixing things, I just prefer the best possible methods available so as to insure the best possible outcome.
Weird... my table was painted with Corvette "Electron Blue Metallic" and Lexus "Pearl White" auto paint about 12 years ago and it still looks perfect. Maybe I am just lucky? lol


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09-21-2019, 01:38 PM



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09-21-2019, 02:24 PM

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Originally Posted by rexus31 View Post
Thanks for the comments everyone! I'm planning on restoring the table as I feel it warrants it. Work has begun today. Really not concerned about my time as I enjoy making old things new again and I do not plan on reselling. This one is a keeper. As for the 1 vs 2 debate, my research has indicated the following:

1. As has been already pointed out, adjustable feet were available on the 1's

2. Early 1's had the plastic nameplate but due to the fragile nature prone to cracking, the metal nameplate was introduced somewhere in the 1's production run (most likely early on).

3. Figure 8 plates were replaced later in the production run.

4. This has been a hot topic all over the forum over the years. Whether my table has Brustone or slate, I don't know. What I do know is the tack marks from the original cloth are evident in the slate backing so my best guess is original playing surface.

There's a ton of information online (some contradictory) and what I posted up above should be taken with a grain of salt because no one definitively knows the production idiosyncrasies of a 50+ year old relatively mass produced item. Who knows, I could have a Franken-Crown, but every indication points to this table being 100% original. Whether it is a 1 or 2 is open for debate.
GREAT FIND !!!!!!!!
I can verify all of this. I have a late GCI that was bought new from a Brunswick dealer for a private residence in Lake Geneva WI. in about 1970. The table was then sold to a friend in the early 80's and moved into another private residence at which time the cloth but not the cushions were replaced. I then found the table and purchased it in Jan 2012. My table has adjustable feet, does not have figure 8 nut plates, it has Brunstone, and has a metal nameplate I have since had the rails extended to tighten the pockets to 4 3/8" (was supposed to be 4 1/2" but thats OK, I wouldnt have even noticed if I didnt measure one day) and sub-rails were machined to take current Artemis cushions. I am extremely pleased with the way the table plays. I compared it to a few Diamonds in our area and it plays at about the exact same speed with about the only difference being that mine possibly banks ever so slightly longer. The only thing I may do different is change back to Superspeeds in the future. When I had my rails modified everyone was using Artemis cushions, now they seem to prefer Superspeeds for whatever reason.

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09-21-2019, 03:01 PM

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fastone371 left the ends of the legs in wood grain and painted the center section with white.
He also painted the spanner section white, but I think it would have looked better with the wood grain on the spanner.
Thanks for the mention. Mine was originally a white GCI. I sanded the rail blinds, ball box, and center of the pedestals to bare wood and stained them then repainted the white sections. Funny thing when I sanded the rail blinds, the white started to have sort of a green tint to it, I dont know if it was some primer/sealer or what but it was distinctively green. My wife and I must have bought at least a dozen cans of stain from 3 manufacturers before we found a close match to the rails. The problem is that I cant remember which shade we settled on and I may have mixed 2 together. I am an idiot, hopefully we never have to do any touch up.
  
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trentfromtoledo
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09-21-2019, 05:36 PM

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Originally Posted by rexus31 View Post
a couple of the long pieces were missing the mounting tabs; most likely broken due to improper removal.
Yeah, they were literally wired together with a piece of wire when I took the table apart. I did tell him about this before I shipped! GREAT FIX!!! I LOVE IT!

Can't wait to see the finished product, you guys are kickin ass!


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09-21-2019, 08:49 PM

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Originally Posted by trentfromtoledo View Post
Yeah, they were literally wired together with a piece of wire when I took the table apart. I did tell him about this before I shipped! GREAT FIX!!! I LOVE IT!

Can't wait to see the finished product, you guys are kickin ass!


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Thanks, Trent! Appreciate it!


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09-21-2019, 10:04 PM

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Originally Posted by poolhustler View Post
Weird... my table was painted with Corvette "Electron Blue Metallic" and Lexus "Pearl White" auto paint about 12 years ago and it still looks perfect. Maybe I am just lucky? lol
No, you just happen to live in an environment where there's very little change in the humidity levels😎
  
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09-21-2019, 10:07 PM

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your are correct man.. since corvettes and pool tables are basically the same thing !! LMFAO
Yep, both have cheap plastic parts😜
  
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