Cheap table in garage (my first!)

My first post after lurking for a while, whoo!

So I finally broke down and got a table for my garage, just so I could have the ability to shoot around and keep my form up for when I cant make it to the pool hall (I'm dual military and have a child, so not very often). It was a super cheap mizerak table off craigslist, fairly new, unfortunately with slatron as opposed to slate (when I talked to the guy he didnt understand the difference). My criteria at the time was due to my being near the end of my time in virginia the table I got had to be disposable-ish. And for $200, this is. Its an asspain to keep it level (bidding on a starret level right now on ebay), as its on the light side, and I have carpet underneath.

1. Should I cut the carpet around the legs as that might be affecting the ability of the table to stay level.

2. Does anyone know of any ways for me to possibly add some weight to a cheap table that doesn't compromise the surface - short of buying a piece of slate. Remember I want to kind of stay in "disposable territory"

Thanks to anyone who takes the time to read this long ass post.

RackemBilliards said:

Yep, me too. The screws that hold it down tend to bend the 'slatron' which is really MDF, or similar, and it's tough to get it level. You can get it pretty close, though, and it was cheap so play around and have fun. Keep that level handy, and someday you can use it on the table you really want. In the meantime, learn what you can here, and welcome to the forum!

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Aye, apparently slatron is mdf with a bit of plastic composite on top to "replicate the feel of slate". I had originally wanted to build a table, so I think Ill experiment a bit with this one on how to create a strong support system.

And yes, it is bending slightly due to its own weight (lol). I need to get under the table to see what can be done about that.

Not Dead Ted said:

You can get the desired support and weight as follows:

Build a supportive frame using 2 x 2" steel tubing 1/8" thick. Cut two pieces to run along the long axis of the table. These will support cross members of the same material that the MDF can be affixed to. I would recommend 6 of these. So, that is about 60' of steel for a 7' table. The steel runs about $2 a foot, so you wont go broke. The cross members can be joined to the longitudinals using 3/8" bolts. Because the steel is true, and won't sag or warp, this frame can be 4-point leveled. So, you want to level the frame independent of the legs. The mdf can be joined to the steel using self tapping screws, such as those made by Kreg.

If you are going to play on mdf, that is how to do it right.

***Insert standard non-mechanic disclaimer here***

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This seems entirely doable and in my price range. Hell half the fun is taking something crappy and making it...less crappy. Also I laughed pretty hard at myself when I got to the mdf part. Thats what I get for the one time in my life I wasn't patient.

So I took the advice given, and kept an eye on craigslist and came up with a guy selling the 3 pieces of slate to a table he just scrapped. Going to look at them tomorrow, but providing they're in good shape Ill buy em.

Downside: The guy wasnt sure about the size but he thinks the table was 7 or 8 ft. I currently have an 8 ft.

Upside: Says the pieces are in good condition and is selling them for 30$.

Moral: I may be dissembling my table in the near future, rebuilding where feasible and replacing the slatron with slate. I might have to shrink the table a bit though. Anyone have any points that could talk me out of this?