So, I was going through my stash

Them are nice,Ed


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Could be katalox. I have turned a few old cues that I initially thought were purpleheart at a glance of the color, but closer inspection turns out to be katalox. I have seen bloodwood Titleists, too.

qbilder said:

Could be katalox. I have turned a few old cues that I initially thought were purpleheart at a glance of the color, but closer inspection turns out to be katalox. I have seen bloodwood Titleists, too.

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i've got an old cue butt I cut up some time ago...thought it was a light purple heart....still not quite sure or really believe it is purple heart....it smelled sorta like firecrackers when cut...more on the pink side.

any ideas?

I'd take a cue out of the bottom!

Josh

greyghost said:

i've got an old cue butt I cut up some time ago...thought it was a light purple heart....still not quite sure or really believe it is purple heart....it smelled sorta like firecrackers when cut...more on the pink side.

any ideas?

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Could be purpleheart. Could be katalox, too. Most people think of katalox being nearly black, but that's not always the case. Often it's a variation of purple, sometimes pastel pink and sometimes as purple as purpleheart. One thing always is that it's hard as a rock and pretty dense.

Nice find!

One has the aromatic kind of rosewood.

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They all smell, more or less. Cocobola (a Dalbergia = rosewood) smells like used horseblankets to me, though :grin:

African blackwood (another dalbergia = rosewood) smells pretty good. Closer to flower/actual rose smell. It's denser than the Brazilian of which Stanley tools made so many plane handles back in the days before ww2. It was also considered about the most stable. Afr. Blackwood was the primo black, hard wood for most purposes in older times until it got scarcer and more expensive. Then they started using that cheap, brash, chippy ebony as a substitute. Woodwind makers still prefer Afr. Blackwood.

Blackwood can have a reddish brown/purple cast to it until coated with anything. even oil or wax makes it almost dead black.

smt

Ssonerai said:

They all smell, more or less. Cocobola (a Dalbergia = rosewood) smells like used horseblankets to me, though :grin:



African blackwood (another dalbergia = rosewood) smells pretty good. Closer to flower/actual rose smell. It's denser than the Brazilian of which Stanley tools made so many plane handles back in the days before ww2. It was also considered about the most stable. Afr. Blackwood was the primo black, hard wood for most purposes in older times until it got scarcer and more expensive. Then they started using that cheap, brash, chippy ebony as a substitute. Woodwind makers still prefer Afr. Blackwood.



Blackwood can have a reddish brown/purple cast to it until coated with anything. even oil or wax makes it almost dead black.



smt

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I have a real nice Stanley/baileys #7 jointer/planer from 1942. Rosewood handle/s Great tool


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OMG!

Just found those laying around? LOL!

I hope you post progress on those.

Old school builds? I hope!

I am interested!

I didn't know ebony was more abundant than African Blackwood.

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Probably close, currently. Especially with the Chinese sucking up all the Dalbergias they can find while we are CITES limited.

However, through history Afr. blackwood was the preferred wood because it is more stable, turns better, and smells good to boot. Around the end of the 1800's/beginning of 1900's i believe ebony was quite a bit more available.

Wood/lumber has trade patterns (in past history) depending partly on use. Naturally where it growm, ebony was used for black, hard wood. But places like Scotland & Ireland preferred to import African blackwood for pipes because of many superior attributes. Other areas with concentrated wealth like Paris imported it for all the over the top furniture.

In the US both were imported for luxe items, but ebony was probably more accessible and cheaper at the time. Think of all the piano keys starting around 1840, until they began dying other woods in the early 1900's as even ebony began to get scarce.

Anyway, i suspect the butt you show is African blackwood, IMO the superior rosewood. Unless you like the deep red of Brazilian. Your's does not have the color (red with black marbling) of Brazilian.

When i still made planes, I used Afr. blackwood for the totes, but it got too hard to source the wider stuff, compared to ebony. the last few i made had ebony totes (handles) but it is not near the quality of blackwood. Blackwood is tough. Ebony is brittle. Another thing, Blackwood dries better, with less de-grade. I sometimes wonder if thick ebony ever stops drying, lol. These are Afr. blackwood, though a couple in the photo-within-the picture are Cocobola

JoeyInCali said:

Will likely build this one for myself.

Tempted to use that illegal bone stuff too but, it would prevent taking it overseas someday.

Will likely just use stag.

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Want me to snatch a big tooth out one a dem ornery gators mouths fer the joey?

Cue put the chomp on a player with that mix lol


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Ssonerai said:

Probably close, currently. Especially with the Chinese sucking up all the Dalbergias they can find while we are CITES limited.

However, through history Afr. blackwood was the preferred wood because it is more stable, turns better, and smells good to boot. Around the end of the 1800's/beginning of 1900's i believe ebony was quite a bit more available.

Wood/lumber has trade patterns (in past history) depending partly on use. Naturally where it growm, ebony was used for black, hard wood. But places like Scotland & Ireland preferred to import African blackwood for pipes because of many superior attributes. Other areas with concentrated wealth like Paris imported it for all the over the top furniture.

In the US both were imported for luxe items, but ebony was probably more accessible and cheaper at the time. Think of all the piano keys starting around 1840, until they began dying other woods in the early 1900's as even ebony began to get scarce.

Anyway, i suspect the butt you show is African blackwood, IMO the superior rosewood. Unless you like the deep red of Brazilian. Your's does not have the color (red with black marbling) of Brazilian.

When i still made planes, I used Afr. blackwood for the totes, but it got too hard to source the wider stuff, compared to ebony. the last few i made had ebony totes (handles) but it is not near the quality of blackwood. Blackwood is tough. Ebony is brittle. Another thing, Blackwood dries better, with less de-grade. I sometimes wonder if thick ebony ever stops drying, lol. These are Afr. blackwood, though a couple in the photo-within-the picture are Cocobola

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Ground up or kit work? Regardless those are real fine man real fine.

My Ww2 era planes and Diston saws (same age....no rust 6 of them) I have some scales picked out to replace all the old handles.

Sure I can get through a 1x10 pine board in about 5 seconds with a skilsaw but it sure is a hell of a nice time taking a couple kerf pulls then long stroking close to 30” and cutting that board dead money in under half a minute....not much pressure just let that sharp sob eat.

You ever seen most guys chisels? They generally look like they been cutting through nails or used for lawn darts on concrete hahaha

Most woodworkers never used a scary sharp tool in their life that’s why I believe most only deal with the power tools. Same with a lot of the bits and cutting edges on those tools if your set up you can refrains them for along time instead of throwing money away buying a new blade....just don’t burn it the hell up and blow out teeth before one decides to put a proper cutting edge back on. Personally I could shave my cat with my axe lol make him look like a squirrel .

If anyone uses handsaws crosscuts can be sharpened (the way they make them now). If you have a nice stone or a lansky sharpening set I like striking flat the pink then white stones along the teeth to and fro and it really keeps those sharp and hungry. Keep them oiled and wax before use to get better glide, I like the dry wax bicycle chain lube.....I actually use that stuff on dam near any cutting tool I have power to hand tool planes to saws to waxing a screw to ease splitting if ya a poeboy......it’s a liquid and you spread it and it drys instantly.

Dry molly sprays are good for the bodies of many tools if they are iron and your bad about rust prevention like routine oiling.

Remember tools will even breakdown in a climate controlled room inside the drawer not being used. So don’t trust wd40 especially if your long term storing,rarely use that tool or just a honeydoer.

Those chain waxes are actually great for long term as it costs it very thin and won’t run or fall off. It’s not hard like some metal storage films that are used and require chemicals to remove before use


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Greyghost - pretty clear you know and appreciate good sharp hand tools too!

I did not set out to hi-jack Joe's post so will stop here with one answer.
Those were the only photos i had online with mostly clear shot of AB. Everything in the photo is my design and my build, metal, wood, blades, threaded parts etc.

Thanks for the props.

smt

JoeyInCali said:

Those planer blades should be sharp enough for tip cutting.
Send me one.

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hell in snooker theyre sharp enough for making cues lol