How would you start this rack?
- Thread starter Dan White
- Start date
From there it looks like you might get a shot on the 14 to the head pocket which would simplify things.
Call safe
Make the 7. Freeze them to a shim.
Bust their stroke.
They come to the table thinking what an idiot then show you how dumb you really are by framming.
You might get to see a stick smashed on something.
That is always fun.
For the cash dog it and change the bet.
Or beat them slow.
Hate the game.
Too fun.
Get you shot.
Nick
Make the 7. Freeze them to a shim.
Bust their stroke.
They come to the table thinking what an idiot then show you how dumb you really are by framming.
You might get to see a stick smashed on something.
That is always fun.
For the cash dog it and change the bet.
Or beat them slow.
Hate the game.
Too fun.
Get you shot.
Nick
I'd be taking a real hard look at the 14,13,7 combination. The 13 going rail first to make the 7. You have a huge margin of error on this shot. Position on the next ball would be dependent on the exact cut angle of course but would most likely be the 14 in the bottom right corner. It looks good in the pic but sometimes the angles aren't how it looks when you're at the table. If I couldn't play it and get good on the 14 next choice would be play the 7 and go 1 rail intending to put the CB midway between the 13 and 2.
From there you're good on the 14,1 and 4. Preferrably the 4. From there you have multiple options
From there you're good on the 14,1 and 4. Preferrably the 4. From there you have multiple options
Roll the 7 in to where I have a choice of shooting the 4 and/or the 14 straight down the rail into the head corner pocket. Provided I get perfect on the 14, I'll then go 14, 13, 4, 1 (at an angle to go into the stack), 2 or 4 etc.
If I do not get perfect on the 14, I'll go 4, 1 (at an angle to go into the stack), 2 or 4 etc.
(All of the above assuming the 13 doesn't pass the 14 into the same head corner - if it did, I wouldn't bother getting high enough to where I have a choice of 14 and 4, but get straight in on the 13 as the 1 would then serve as insurance ball in this scenario. From the 13, I'd again go 4, 1, 2 or 4 etc.)
I guess the bottom line is that: a) I want 100% make-percentage for every shot I'm taking on, b) I want insurance (= choice) at all times, c) I want to get rid of problems early (to me, the 14 and 13 are too off-angle a combination to shoot during a Straight Pool run unless I were absolutely forced to - also, placing the cue ball perfectly on that combo, as if using ball in hand in e.g. 9-Ball, the 14 will come close to colliding with the cue ball on its way back), and d) I want insurance going into the stack and open space on the side of the rack I'm pushing potential break balls to, so I'm not forced to shoot hard and disperse the balls farther away than necessary.
Greetings from Switzerland, David.
_________________
„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti
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7 then 13 up table. Depending how I lay, the 1 in the side breaking the balls or the six in the corner next.
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The 13 doesn't go, but the 14 would if needed.
I still think my solution gives the greatest number of easy shot options after making the 7. If you go for the window to get to the 4 and miss that window, you may be left only with a funny angle on the 1 or 14. If you miss my "Option 3" bumping the 2, you are still a favorite to get another easy shot.
Of course different styles of play impact decisions like this, but then again there are situations where there is a "best" option. I just thought this was one of those situations. Maybe only Lou agrees?
Right now, the one is in a good place for a break ball for the next rack. It's really the best option right now. The 5 isn't ideal because you will be going into the center of the rack, instead of a corner area. The 15 is too close. So, I will be trying to not move that one. No need to manufacture a break ball when one is already available.
First shot is the 7. My next shot is the 14. Next is either the 13 or the 4, depending on how well I got on the 14. From the 4, I shoot the 6 in the corner and draw into the center cluster. The breakout here is a freebie. I don't need to blast them open, just move them a little to open up a ball or two. I have the 3 and the 2 as safety valves. From there, depends on just how the balls break up.
First shot is the 7. My next shot is the 14. Next is either the 13 or the 4, depending on how well I got on the 14. From the 4, I shoot the 6 in the corner and draw into the center cluster. The breakout here is a freebie. I don't need to blast them open, just move them a little to open up a ball or two. I have the 3 and the 2 as safety valves. From there, depends on just how the balls break up.
I get that one of the truism of 14.1 is to not go into balls unnecessarily. But conversely it is also a truism that going into balls at 14.1 is often a necessity.
Would I prefer to control everything and get on another ball, sure. But this spread is such a mess, with limited access to the pockets, that running into the two or six will make opening up and running the rest of the rack much more likely than even a typical break shot.
Lou Figueroa
Play the seven, then float softly possibly nudging the 13 with insurance on the 4 or 2, then depending on where cue ball takes residence i play the four ball (1st choice) and draw into the stack for secondary break shot. all the while leaving the six for possible behind the rack break shot and slowly developing the rack as to make sure and not move the 6 ball. Many good ways to clear this frame, this is the first one that jumps out at me without being at the table and the 3 ball becomes a great key ball. The other option I see is to again play the 7 and again softly float in between the 2 and six (possibly clipping the back side of six to develop the stack with insurance every where.)
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