Critical skills for cue repairs and building (newbie)

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
For a first ferrule change it's not to bad. Looks like you had some issues with facing. Maybe your having runout issues?
Also make sure your ferrule is nice and flat. It also looks like you have sanded the ferrule a bit much. Make sure your shaft is spinning nice and true, so you can turn down the ferrule as close to the shaft diameter you can. If you want to use Ivorine, LBM or other ferrules with big pores, seal the ferrule with CA before sanding. When trimming the tip make sure you don't trim it so it gets a taper, like the one in the picture. I prefer to use a freshly sharpened HSS parting tool and trim it as close to flush with the ferrule as possible. Another tip is to get a set of quality magnifying glasses. I use a Optivisor #5 what a difference it makes for precision jobs. Use a longer setting epoxy, BSI medium cure gives better results than the 5minutes one. I prefer to use the West G/flex.
 

BarenbruggeCues

Unregistered User
Silver Member
566Yl2X.jpg



Thread your ferrules and pitch the epoxy. Nothing wrong with the material you just need to learn how to work it. My go to ferrule material. Practice makes perfect....after about 50 more you'll be headed down the right path. Buy a box of cheap lepros and after you get thru the box take a picture and post it side by side with your first one. You then decide if you need to buy another box and give it another go.
 

conetip

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Another thing to try is changing a tip, and not polishing or touching the ferrule. This skill will become handy for changing tips on carbon cues.
Another learning exercise is to turn a piece of material like Brass or Aluminum. Then get a marker pen, and coat it evenly with the marker pen. Then practice cutting the marker pen and not cutting any more than the very high spots from the turned bar. It will show the marker pen still in the valleys of the previously turned piece and you will see just a glitter from the brass or al bar that was previously turned. With practice you can cut the marker pen and not cut the bar. A useful skill in picking up the diameter of something. A sharpie marker is about 0.01mm thick, about 1/2 a thou in inches.
 

L I F D 1

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
566Yl2X.jpg

Thread your ferrules and pitch the epoxy. Nothing wrong with the material you just need to learn how to work it. My go to ferrule material. Practice makes perfect....after about 50 more you'll be headed down the right path. Buy a box of cheap lepros and after you get thru the box take a picture and post it side by side with your first one. You then decide if you need to buy another box and give it another go.
Nicely Done.
Great thread by the way, Thanks Local Artist, kudos
 

rhinobywilhite

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Start to replace ferrules and also consider making some joint protectors.

The joint protectors will give you drilling and threading practice as well as turning and finishing a piece. You can the sell some JP's and get more cash to toss at your new hobby!
 

shakes

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thread your ferrules and pitch the epoxy. Nothing wrong with the material you just need to learn how to work it. My go to ferrule material. Practice makes perfect....after about 50 more you'll be headed down the right path. Buy a box of cheap lepros and after you get thru the box take a picture and post it side by side with your first one. You then decide if you need to buy another box and give it another go.

I thread my ferrules and I still use epoxy. What are you using as your glue? Looks like it might be wood glue?

Thank you for sharing!
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
I thread my ferrules and I still use epoxy. What are you using as your glue? Looks like it might be wood glue?

Thank you for sharing!

Any weather proof wood glue would do if you thread the ferrule and tenon correctly.
 

whammo57

Kim Walker
Silver Member
I have replaced dozens of cracked ferrules that were put on with wood glue........ the glue bond just does not hold with wood glue......... because FERRULES ARE NOT WOOD.... use epoxy.............


Kim
 

BarenbruggeCues

Unregistered User
Silver Member
I have replaced dozens of cracked ferrules that were put on with wood glue........ the glue bond just does not hold with wood glue......... because FERRULES ARE NOT WOOD.... use epoxy.............


Kim

What does the glue have to do with a ferrule cracking?
25 yrs plus of installing ferrules NOT using epoxy. If there were a problem I believe I would have heard about it by now.
I play and break with the same cue for over 10 yrs now. Same original non epoxied ferrule holding up just fine.
Get your information straight before you start spreading your bullshit half truths about what will or will not work.
 
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Coos Cues

Coos Cues
What does the glue have to do with a ferrule cracking?
25 yrs plus of installing ferrules NOT using epoxy. If there were a problem I believe I would have heard about it by now.
I play and break with the same cue for over 10 yrs now. Same original non epoxied ferrule holding up just fine.
Get your information straight before you start spreading your bullshit half truths about what will or will not work.

Dave how much clearance do you use between the ferule and the tenon when you glue them on? Do you use a slip fit or a thread?
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
I have replaced dozens of cracked ferrules that were put on with wood glue........ the glue bond just does not hold with wood glue......... because FERRULES ARE NOT WOOD.... use epoxy.............


Kim

BS!
Hammered on nylon ferrules will break no matter what glue you use .
Picture attached is mason micarta ferrule that is already down to 11.75mm. Has been on the field for more than the decade. Has gone through 3 owners . Recently converted to a break shaft by a local repairman who installed that clear hard tip and proceeded to sand it to a taper .
But, the ferrule shows no separation from the bottom or cracks.
I'd like to see press-fit ferrules with epoxy do as well as that.
The epoxy does not make the ferrule stronger.
Some wood glue actually have better bond than quick dry epoxy to WOOD.
And some glue are actually designed for MELAMINE bonding to wood . Or formica to wood .
I've tested ( and by accident ) my glue by removing machining the threaded ferrule out. Within minutes, the material inside the threads are so glued, you'd need ice pick to part them out.
 

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Ssonerai

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
And some glue are actually designed for MELAMINE bonding to wood . Or formica to wood

To add a little to that....

My primary business for the past 4+ decades has been niche scale millwork & installation. That means constant gluing and clamping.

Waaay back in the early daze we had a lot of scrap MDF, plywood, and formica laying around. So before cleaning it into the dumpster, I made a bunch of formica face cauls for the glue rack. Couldn't imagine glue sticking to the shiny face.

Wrong.
Worked good the first use. By the second use, anything with a little Elmers or Titebond glue on the face stuck as tight to the "good" face of the formica as it did to any other wood.

(Formica is melamine face on craft paper laminate)

smt
 
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