Coring dowels and glue rings
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Michael Webb
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Coring dowels and glue rings - 05-26-2019, 07:37 AM

Don't work harder than you have to. Two days after I gun drill, I use a reamer which helps get the size dowell I want to use. .003 to .004 clearance. Perfect for glue.
Hope this helps.

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05-26-2019, 08:05 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Webb View Post
Don't work harder than you have to. Two days after I gun drill, I use a reamer which helps get the size dowell I want to use. .003 to .004 clearance. Perfect for glue.
Hope this helps.

Attachment 521004
Attachment 521005
Attachment 521006
Good stuff thanks!

What size ID decorative rings are you using at that Joint? Do you pre build the ring pack in a jig first so they don't fall into the tight spaced glue grooves? What type of glue are you using with the cores?

On a semi related note I'm interested in how or whether folks pre build ring packs up. I saw Bob Dz's video on youtube how he does it and it looks pretty good. I know some use the core itself as the jig and face the outer ring before attaching the parts. Maybe this should be a separate thread or has been discussed already I haven't found much in a search.

Thanks,

JC


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Michael Webb
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05-26-2019, 08:42 AM

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Originally Posted by JC View Post
Good stuff thanks!

What size ID decorative rings are you using at that Joint? Do you pre build the ring pack in a jig first so they don't fall into the tight spaced glue grooves? What type of glue are you using with the cores?

On a semi related note I'm interested in how or whether folks pre build ring packs up. I saw Bob Dz's video on youtube how he does it and it looks pretty good. I know some use the core itself as the jig and face the outer ring before attaching the parts. Maybe this should be a separate thread or has been discussed already I haven't found much in a search.

Thanks,

JC
Hi John
Two great parts about using a 7/8x9 split die as opposed to a 3/4" is, I have control over the dept of the grooves. It really doesn't take much to achieve the job. Secondly, it only takes about 5 seconds to thread the dowell whether it 15 inches for a forearm or 19 inches for a handle. I like the forearms 14 inches when cutting points so the cutter doesn't run out and I still have a cavity in the Vee groove for epoxy. It gets cut off later.
I left the glue for the core out on purpose to avoid the can of worms but with my tolerances, I can use whatever glue I choose.
Gorilla glue.... YOU DO NOT NEED WATER!
Wood has moisture, it is plenty to activate the glue.
Epoxy
I do not use 5 minute epoxy for anything. I don't like it or anything about it. That's my preference but I do not condemn those who like it. I don't judge.
I'm a West system 205, 206 and 207 guy. If I use it on cores, I mix 403 or 404 powder with it. It adds density to the epoxy which eliminates the possibility of a buzz if the wood has soft spots which can absorb the epoxy and leave a dry spot.
I don't do the ring packs. I build as I go one by one.
Hope this helps.


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Last edited by Michael Webb; 05-26-2019 at 08:45 AM.
  
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05-26-2019, 09:09 AM

Here's an example inside of Elforyn. The Threads are very visible.

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Coring
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Coring - 05-26-2019, 10:11 AM

Mike,
Thank you for sharing. I use both methods of putting together ringwork depending on the complexity of the ring pack. It's easy to build jigs to do it separately.

Mario


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05-26-2019, 11:04 AM

That's a clever way to do glue relief grooves if you dont have the machinery to cut threads



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05-26-2019, 11:15 AM

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That's a clever way to do glue relief grooves if you dont have the machinery to cut threads

As long as the dowell is supported. Meaning, use your live center in the tail stock. It's very consistant. Don't use the tailstock and let the dowell whip. You won't be happy.
YUP.... I tried.


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05-26-2019, 02:29 PM

Hi Michael,
With your resin, do you split some off and not add any filler, using that as a primer resin on the dowel and a coat through the hole. Then while that is soaking in, mix the fibre fillers and reglue using the filled glue and assembly? I was adding milled glass to my resin as a reinforcing , bonding agent. Works very well, but it does require slightly more total clearance to assemble. Another thing was to create an area of excess resin to act as a reservoir so it could draw in resin if needed.
Instead of the split die like you use, I just use a thread chaser and does the same thing. Either way, consistency I feel is really important. It eliminates a lot of variables.
Then something else comes along and you make it totally different, lol


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05-26-2019, 02:43 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by conetip View Post
Hi Michael,
With your resin, do you split some off and not add any filler, using that as a primer resin on the dowel and a coat through the hole. Then while that is soaking in, mix the fibre fillers and reglue using the filled glue and assembly? I was adding milled glass to my resin as a reinforcing , bonding agent. Works very well, but it does require slightly more total clearance to assemble. Another thing was to create an area of excess resin to act as a reservoir so it could draw in resin if needed.
Instead of the split die like you use, I just use a thread chaser and does the same thing. Either way, consistency I feel is really important. It eliminates a lot of variables.
Then something else comes along and you make it totally different, lol

Hi Neil
I mix it complete with the filler and coat both pieces well before assembly. Delrin makes for a good plunger.


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05-26-2019, 04:16 PM

Good thing I didn't turn the final size on my cores yet. I asked my tool guy if he had an over sized reamer. I'm pretty happy right now!

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05-26-2019, 07:09 PM

Thanks for sharing


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05-27-2019, 03:44 PM

Conclusion:
Today I'm doing the final turn on the cores. With the new reamer, the hole is at .756. I succeeded in dry fitting at .751 1/2.
That's not bad. 40 pieces cored.

Please, don't take my word for it. Try it.


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