Hi, I'm sure this has been asked before but I haven't seen it in a long time. Anyways, I'm thinking about getting a table in the house. We could fit a barbox 7x3.5 in the dinning room completely fine! I play all league and tournaments on 9 footers but I hate going into the pool hall to practice all the time because of how bad the smoke is. I already have cancer, I don't need it again or worse. So do you guys think playing on a smaller table at home would be at all beneficial to my game? The way I think about it, is a 50 degree angle is the same on any table but going 3 rails for position isn't the same speed. So i'm torn to only practice on 9footers during leagues or tournaments or to be able to practice at home whenever! I would want a diamond table with tight pockets at home.
Question about table sizes to practice on.
- Thread starter stevea
- Start date
It's much easier in life to switch from large to small when it comes to a pool table. Since your on niner's for league, I'd definitely go that route.
Is it just as easy to switch from small to large? I would not be practicing a lot on a smaller table but then going to play on larger one.
I wanted a home table for some of the same reasons as you: I could not stand the smoke. I was lucky that a 9' fit in my living room. I play on it all the time, and even have a camera mounted to the wall to record practice sessions.
If you are a pool junkie you will probably use the home table all the time, regardless of its size.
Go for the biggest you can fit properly in your home. I'm of the opinion that playing is what keeps you in stroke. It doesn't matter what size the table is. The motion of the body and stroke is the same.
If you are a pool junkie you will probably use the home table all the time, regardless of its size.
Go for the biggest you can fit properly in your home. I'm of the opinion that playing is what keeps you in stroke. It doesn't matter what size the table is. The motion of the body and stroke is the same.
If you give yourself plenty of time to warm up on the bigger table you should be ok. I did it for several years when I started playing. Don't know that I'd want to now, though.
I now have a 4 x 8 so there isn't really a whole lot of difference.
You'd be surprised how the geometry/proportions of the table can affect your sight and alignment. I play on mostly 8 foots in league in orlando, and recently played in a tourney with all 9 foots. Angles may be angles, but the larger table through me off completely and I couldn't make anything. It was also my fault for not warming up properly on the larger tables.
I have a pro 8 (8.5). And honestly I feel like it is closer to a barbox than a nine footer. However it is all that would fit and I am glad to have it for practicing. If I had the room for a nine though I would definitely get one!
When I get to the point where I can break and run the majority if my racks then I will bust through a wall to make room for a nine foot diamond! Until the I will keep with the 8.5! I don't think the wall is worried!
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When I get to the point where I can break and run the majority if my racks then I will bust through a wall to make room for a nine foot diamond! Until the I will keep with the 8.5! I don't think the wall is worried!
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If it's a choice between a 7-footer and no table at all, the 7-footer should help your game more.
Tight pockets should keep you from getting lackadaisical in your shot-making. Speed and positional play is different on a big table, but not so different that practicing on the smaller table won't help your big table game.
You won't be able to practice long shots, though. If you don't get a chance to put in some big table practice from time to time, your long game probably will atrophy.
-Andrew
Tight pockets should keep you from getting lackadaisical in your shot-making. Speed and positional play is different on a big table, but not so different that practicing on the smaller table won't help your big table game.
You won't be able to practice long shots, though. If you don't get a chance to put in some big table practice from time to time, your long game probably will atrophy.
-Andrew
Steve...If you revisit the information from our lesson years ago (re-watch the dvds and re-read the workbook), you will realize that everything is there to fine-tune your stroke...which is the biggest indicator on easily switching table sizes. It shouldn't matter whether you go up or down...but it's tougher to play on the smaller table, simply because the playing area is smaller, but the balls and pockets are the same size. You end up having to have better CB control, as there are more clusters, and it's easier to scratch, as there is less rail to catch the CB. Get a Diamond Smart Table (7') and you'll get a table that plays just like a 9'! JMO Nice to catch up a little last Friday, and meet your wife! Good luck this weekend in the US Amateur! :thumbup:
Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
Any table at home would be better than none. Even if you have it to keep in stroke or to improve your stroke, it would be beneficial in that sense. You can work on simple things too like keeping your pocketing percentage high. And, if like me you have light bulb moments, and have to rush to the table to try it out at all costs (usually to find out your light bulb is faulty) then its great for that.
True, a 50 degree cut is the same on any table, but the path of the CB isn't. CB patters are different and side spin on a barbox usually finds a pocket in my case purely because I'm not used to playing on one. I recognise patterns by how the OB is related to the pocket. So if a OB is say 1ft from the short rail and 1ft from the long rail I know I have to hit the CB 'here' to get the CB to rest 'here' when going a couple of rails. But if the CB is 1ft by 1ft away from the pocket on a smaller or larger table hitting the CB in the same place doesn't get it 'here'. If that makes sense its a miracle but I tried. If you decide CB path by tracking it around the table using imaginary lines then it should make much difference.
In short, a table to practice on at hand has more ups than downs.
True, a 50 degree cut is the same on any table, but the path of the CB isn't. CB patters are different and side spin on a barbox usually finds a pocket in my case purely because I'm not used to playing on one. I recognise patterns by how the OB is related to the pocket. So if a OB is say 1ft from the short rail and 1ft from the long rail I know I have to hit the CB 'here' to get the CB to rest 'here' when going a couple of rails. But if the CB is 1ft by 1ft away from the pocket on a smaller or larger table hitting the CB in the same place doesn't get it 'here'. If that makes sense its a miracle but I tried. If you decide CB path by tracking it around the table using imaginary lines then it should make much difference.
In short, a table to practice on at hand has more ups than downs.
Here's the truth........practicing on a 7' table is better than not practicing so get the table. But do not believe or listen to the phooey about your skills improvement immediately transfer and instantly 100% manifest itself in your 9' table play/performance. Your practiced distance control and position play of the cue ball involves longer distances on a 9' table and cue ball energy becomes a lot more delicate. And then there's safety play on a 9' table vs. 7' which obviously involves harder shots.
But your skills will improve by practicing on a 7' table at home and with tightened pockets, that helps a lot. You just need to allow for rehearsing and practice on a 9' table at the pool hall where you play. Eventually, your transition/warm-up time will gradually reduce and your practice at home will focus on aspects of your last match that need improvement.....cut shot, banks, combo's, draw shots, stop, center ball, frozen rail, etc.
So you'll derive enormous benefits from having a 7' table instead of anguishing over not practicing or enduring some unbearable conditions at the pool hall. But it will never be as satisfying or beneficial as having a 9' table at home.....that's just the hard cold facts......so just suck it up and live with a 7' Diamond table at home and make the pockets 4 & 3/8" wide.......Oh woe is me..........If that's hard to live with, then you be crying crocodile tears.........Really now...... a 7' Diamond table is so terrible to settle upon????????
Fortunately I live in California and all of the pool halls went smoke free years ago. Now it's just loud music that's replaced smoke so I can tolerate that easily.....especially, when I like most of the music being played.
But your skills will improve by practicing on a 7' table at home and with tightened pockets, that helps a lot. You just need to allow for rehearsing and practice on a 9' table at the pool hall where you play. Eventually, your transition/warm-up time will gradually reduce and your practice at home will focus on aspects of your last match that need improvement.....cut shot, banks, combo's, draw shots, stop, center ball, frozen rail, etc.
So you'll derive enormous benefits from having a 7' table instead of anguishing over not practicing or enduring some unbearable conditions at the pool hall. But it will never be as satisfying or beneficial as having a 9' table at home.....that's just the hard cold facts......so just suck it up and live with a 7' Diamond table at home and make the pockets 4 & 3/8" wide.......Oh woe is me..........If that's hard to live with, then you be crying crocodile tears.........Really now...... a 7' Diamond table is so terrible to settle upon????????
Fortunately I live in California and all of the pool halls went smoke free years ago. Now it's just loud music that's replaced smoke so I can tolerate that easily.....especially, when I like most of the music being played.
Kinda tough to "let your stroke out" on a 7 ft table. <----- I am sure i'll get beat-up here for this. :shrug::duck:
Itsa lil tough to get the bank angles back onna 9ft table after you play a few days onna 7 ft. I never have any trouble going from a 9 to a 7 foot table. But there needs to be an adjustment made for bank angles etc going from a 7 to a 9 foot table.
I played for many years with a 7' table at the house. And though I was a big fish in a small pond, I won many 9' table tournaments. I'm of the opinion is the stroke is the stroke.
As said earlier, there are things that are easier to go from small to big table. If your stroke is good and you get a chance to get used to the table and get in stroke, it's better to have a 7' table in the house then nothing.
Freddie <~~~ anecdote but easily proven
Exactly. If you have your own table, you have plenty of opportunity to practice your stroke. The stroke is the biggest part of pool, and few give it the credit it or attention it deserves. Everything else hinges off it.
Once you have your stroke down, the biggest problem you will have going from a 7' to a 9' is remembering to leave yourself where you can reach it. That means that your pattern play will be a little different. Where you can easily play a standard pattern off a given shot on a 7' table, when you get on the 9' table and play the same pattern, all of a sudden you find it's not such an easy shot anymore. You have trouble reaching it.
As far as the added distance for speed control, I find I adjust to that very quickly and it's not a problem for me.
Dunnn51...Bank angles on a Diamond are the same, whether it is a 7', 8' or 9' table...they don't change, and therefore need no adjustment, aside from perhaps stroke speed for the long rail banks on the 9'. Going from a 9' Diamond or GC to a Valley barbox, I would agree with you, because the rail construction and quality is totally different.
Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
Scott Lee
http://poolknowledge.com
Given what you say above:
I'd rather my practice table be a 9-footer that's compromised on one or two sides than a 7-footer that is fully accessible on all sides (i.e., with 5 feet of clearance to all walls).
A 7-footer requires a minimum room size of about 13' - 14' wide and 16' - 17' long. A 9-footer could be placed in a room of that size by putting it off center, allowing a full 5 feet to the wall on one short side and one long side and less space on the other two sides. Shorter cues could be used on the two compromised sides if you wanted to actually play standard games, but the main objective would be to give yourself space for practicing any and all shots with a full cue from either a short rail or a long rail. I think that would be better for developing my 9-foot game than playing on a 7-footer.
You would then also already have the 9-foot table when you move to a house with a larger room!:smile:
[I acknowledge that some people would find this solution quite unappealing.]
Actually I agree. I have a pro 8 Gandy in my garage, and although it's mostly accessible from all sides, I generally only practice on one side. I have the table for drills and practice, not banging balls around. I've never even racked the balls on my table.
Get the 7 footer!
I have a 7 footer in my basement. My predicament is a little bit different because I could have gotten an 8 footer down there, but I would have to switch to shortie cues on two tight spots and I don't have the tolerance for that.
Having that table in my basement is one of the best things to ever happen to me. I get to enjoy and get better at my addiction without dealing with bars, bowling alleys and seedy people all the time.
I have a 7 footer in my basement. My predicament is a little bit different because I could have gotten an 8 footer down there, but I would have to switch to shortie cues on two tight spots and I don't have the tolerance for that.
Having that table in my basement is one of the best things to ever happen to me. I get to enjoy and get better at my addiction without dealing with bars, bowling alleys and seedy people all the time.
I have a 9' table at home but play league on 7's. It really helps your confindence to play on a 7' when you are used to a 9' cause you dont have a long shot from anywhere on the 7' table.