Chucks 3-4jaws
- Thread starter GoldCrown
- Start date
Yes. 4-jaw is more accurate . I use 4 jaw for rear chuck.
And think about it. Which one would be easier to shim and zero???
If chuck one is off, you can shim it or shim number 3 if 1 needs to be pushed.
You have an index point every 90 degrees.
With a 3-jaw, you don't.
Repairs ?
What if have a shaft that wobbles and needs shimming ?
And think about it. Which one would be easier to shim and zero???
If chuck one is off, you can shim it or shim number 3 if 1 needs to be pushed.
You have an index point every 90 degrees.
With a 3-jaw, you don't.
Repairs ?
What if have a shaft that wobbles and needs shimming ?
Shimming on a four jaw chuck puts the shaft in a little bit of a bind. Where as on 3 jaws there is no binding when shimming. I had my choice on three jaw or four jaw years ago and talked extensively with the people who make them in the small version of self centering we see on cue lathes today. Once I found out the 4 jaw chucks did not have as large of a size holding range and negatives on shimming were pointed out I chose to stick with the 3 jaw version. The 4 jaw chucks were introduced for the pen makers so they could drill and turn small square stock. The 4 Jaw chuck would be hard to beat for that.
Adjust - tru 3 jaw?
I know that is not what the chucks were designed for, for metal work. But it works great for cue repair where only dialing it off center a few .001's. Some repairs, the extra jaw of a 4J is worthwhile. (Lower individual jaw pressure for 33% greater support)
I use 4J, 3 J adjust-tru USA Kalamazoo, and collets, whichever makes most sense for the task. Outboard end has a tiny bored out 4J, + a larger import 3J adjust tru, which i would not buy again, but live with since am not (yet?) in the commercial business.
smt
I know that is not what the chucks were designed for, for metal work. But it works great for cue repair where only dialing it off center a few .001's. Some repairs, the extra jaw of a 4J is worthwhile. (Lower individual jaw pressure for 33% greater support)
I use 4J, 3 J adjust-tru USA Kalamazoo, and collets, whichever makes most sense for the task. Outboard end has a tiny bored out 4J, + a larger import 3J adjust tru, which i would not buy again, but live with since am not (yet?) in the commercial business.
smt
Different chuck jaw question... I have Jet 1015VS spindle lathe and NovaG3 chuck...what jaws would I use to chuck a driver/mandrel. I'm using Cueman's pins/drivers. Can I chuck the aluminum driver in the G3 or is it strictly for chucking wood. Thanks.
I have had both variations of the taig style chucks and I prefer the 3 jaw model. I think that it would be plenty for most normal work. Slipping is more likely on the 3 jaw vs the 4 jaw chuck, so if your doing alot of heavy work like coring, 4 jaw might be the way to go :smile: