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victorl
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08-02-2015, 05:55 PM

Maybe he was trying to make it LD??
Could be a new way to reduce the front end mass without changing to a lighter ferrule and thinner taper. Or not.
  
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08-02-2015, 06:01 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by cesarmorales View Post
I posted this issue in the ask the cue maker section and pretty much got the opinion that this was not the way to replace a ferrule. So, as players, what do you think is a fair way to deal with this issue.

The shaft can not be replaced because it goes to a custom cue from a famous cue maker who is dead. I don't play with shafts that are smaller than 13mm.

Story is, I took this shaft in to have the ferrule replace and it is at this point now.
You don't take shafts from cues with famous makers who are now dead to someone who doesn't have solid credentials to do a simple ferrule replacement.

This is what you did (or so you say) and now you're screwed. Who is really to blame?

No sympathy here.

JC


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Last edited by JC; 08-02-2015 at 06:06 PM.
  
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08-02-2015, 06:12 PM

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Originally Posted by stick130 View Post
Glue expands
Very few glues expand. Polyurethane glues such as gorilla glue are about the only ones...and they don't really expand, they foam. Epoxies, superglues, casting urethanes (which I have used successfully for adhesives) and PVA glues all shrink.
  
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Dan_B
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08-04-2015, 07:52 AM

If you havenít done anything yet, I can do an extended acrylic ferrule and get that 1Ē back.
Send it in, Iíll fix it. Send it back, if you like, send me $50.
extended ferrule
  
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08-04-2015, 07:55 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by cesarmorales View Post
I don't play with shafts that are smaller than 13mm.
You do now.

Only way to fix this is have a good repair guy take down the rest of the shaft to match it. You can take it off but you cant put it on.

That shit is absurd.


-H

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08-04-2015, 07:56 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan_B View Post
If you haven’t done anything yet, I can do an extended acrylic ferrule and get that 1” back.
Send it in, I’ll fix it. Send it back, if you like, send me $50.
extended ferrule
Wait... this is a thing?

That looks ridiculous.

Edit to add: But I guess it's better then the original posters shaft now...


-H

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Last edited by Icon of Sin; 08-04-2015 at 08:10 AM.
  
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Celophanewrap
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08-04-2015, 08:03 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan_B View Post
If you haven’t done anything yet, I can do an extended acrylic ferrule and get that 1” back.
Send it in, I’ll fix it. Send it back, if you like, send me $50.
extended ferrule
Just curious, why the "hour glass" shape? What happens if you take the taper all the way out?

If you had an extended acrylic ferrule, couldn't you extend the tenon and put on a maple sleeve and a short ferrule?

Last edited by Celophanewrap; 08-04-2015 at 08:06 AM.
  
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08-04-2015, 08:24 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Celophanewrap View Post
Just curious, why the "hour glass" shape? What happens if you take the taper all the way out?

If you had an extended acrylic ferrule, couldn't you extend the tenon and put on a maple sleeve and a short ferrule?
These particular ferrules are an attempt to get the sight somewhat on a perpendicular plane to the shooters line of sight, is, what creates the form. The acrylic is solid chunks of material, so there isnít any limitation on how or what shape it is turned too. However, when working with this material, when turning, caution needs to be used, side stencil strength has its limits.

...on the second ? Doing the joint work is not an issue, getting the similar wood grain and natural color is a hill, then getting sheen/finish match starts another issue.

Last edited by Dan_B; 08-04-2015 at 08:35 AM.
  
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Bob Jewett
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08-04-2015, 08:26 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by cesarmorales View Post
As far as due diligence, this shop has done the best work in town over the last number of years. This time a different person worked on the shaft. I figured if he worked there, he knew what he was doing.

The person that did this to my shaft is a person I have known for about 40 years. I thought we were friends, hahaha. First question I will ask him when we talk again is if something happened where he does not like me anymore, hahaha

I figure the answer is to cut down the shaved part of the shaft and put on a ferrule.
Then remove the ring work from the joint of the shaft and put in a spacer. I have seen nice cues with a different wood used on the first inch or two between the joint ring and the shaft wood. The cue has an ebony forearm so an ebony spacer would actually look very nice. Then we can only hope it plays as well as it did before.

What do you think about that idea?

Also, I am a business owner of a number of companies. I want a chance to make things right with an unhappy customer but some customers are a##holes.

So, I came to azbilliards for a second opinion. I did not want to be an a@@hole but your comments back up my first impression. So I don't think I will be out of line asking for him to make a major effort to make this right.
One option is to just walk away and find somewhere else to get cue work done.

A second is to sit down with the owner of the shop and the guy who did the "work" and figure out what should be done. Most of that is up to the owner of the shop. I'd let him decide and depending on what that was I might go back to option 1.

You might want to keep the shaft to show to people. Or take it down in length and learn how to play 3-cushion.

I had a similar thing happen to me. I took a bunch of shafts in to be retipped. Maybe 7-8. When I picked them up, the guy who did the work was all proud because he had installed a ferrule on the shaft that had no ferrule and wasn't going to charge me for it. The owner was standing right there and probably saw the look on my face because there was no charge for any of the work. The shaft was a Balabushka and it had no ferrule for a reason.


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08-04-2015, 08:49 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan_B View Post
These particular ferrules are an attempt to get the sight somewhat on a perpendicular plane to the shooters line of sight, is, what creates the form. The acrylic is solid chunks of material, so there isnít any limitation on how or what shape it is turned too. However, when working with this material, when turning, caution needs to be used, side stencil strength has its limits.

...on the second ? Doing the joint work is not an issue, getting the similar wood grain and natural color is a hill, then getting sheen/finish match starts another issue.
Your use of the term 'stencil strength' shows you have no idea about any of the gibberish that you type.

It is called, 'Tensile' strength. It is the ability of the material to react forces in tension.
  
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08-04-2015, 08:50 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan_B View Post
These particular ferrules are an attempt to get the sight somewhat on a perpendicular plane to the shooters line of sight, is, what creates the form. The acrylic is solid chunks of material, so there isnít any limitation on how or what shape it is turned too. However, when working with this material, when turning, caution needs to be used, side stencil strength has its limits.

...on the second ? Doing the joint work is not an issue, getting the similar wood grain and natural color is a hill, then getting sheen/finish match starts another issue.
Tensile strength.
  
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08-04-2015, 08:56 AM

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Originally Posted by galipeau View Post
tensile strength.
..............ok!
  
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ferrule replacement gone wrong
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ferrule replacement gone wrong - 08-04-2015, 09:14 AM

Wow sorry this happened.

I don't think ferrule replacement is trivial at all. It takes a fair amount of knowledge and skill to match the shaft well (without removing a ton of shaft wood)

From my eyes, it looks like the cutting tool was not sharp enough. That's why the ferrule looks curved (unless an optical illusion), and the wood necks down after the ferrule.

The lathe operator probably had the tool dig into the wood after the ferrule, because the dull tool was rubbing on the ferrule instead of cutting it, and he kept increasing the cutting depth to cut the ferrule because he did not understand the root cause. A curved ferrule is a tell tale sign of this.

A sharp tool makes a WORLD of difference. I would sharpen my tool on every ferrule replacement. And even touch it up with a hone once I got to about the last .005 diameter to remove.

Last edited by iusedtoberich; 08-04-2015 at 09:27 AM.
  
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08-04-2015, 09:39 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by iusedtoberich View Post
Wow sorry this happened.

I don't think ferrule replacement is trivial at all. It takes a fair amount of knowledge and skill to match the shaft well (without removing a ton of shaft wood)

From my eyes, it looks like the cutting tool was not sharp enough. That's why the ferrule looks curved (unless an optical illusion), and the wood necks down after the ferrule.

The lathe operator probably had the tool dig into the wood after the ferrule, because the dull tool was rubbing on the ferrule instead of cutting it, and he kept increasing the cutting depth to cut the ferrule because he did not understand the root cause. A curved ferrule is a tell tale sign of this.

A sharp tool makes a WORLD of difference. I would sharpen my tool on every ferrule replacement. And even touch it up with a hone once I got to about the last .005 diameter to remove.
No, it is much more likely that the guy was using a file or sandpaper to match the diameters and burned down away from his center. There are lines in the photo indicating sandpaper or a loaded file.

The guy was simply inept.
  
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08-04-2015, 11:49 AM

You guys are still acting as if this is a real thing and not a joke.
  
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