3/8 - 10 pin

jed1894

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I tried to do a search on this thread but it kept coming up with no results.

Been hearing a lot these days about the larger pins, and how good they are. What exactly, other than the obvious, is the differencel (in feel)? Any custom cue makers switching to the fatter pins? I know that Shurtz have swithed. I have noticed that my McDermott with a 3/8 - 10 pin does feel different, but I'm not so sure that's a good thing or not. The tip is a Triangle so I'm not sure what I'm feeling.

Any thoughts....or is just another preference thing?

JED
 

worriedbeef

The Voice of Reason
Silver Member
i like the wood to wood 3/8 10 pin. feels extremely solid and somehow a touch more natural than the metal quick release joints.
 

yally

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've moved from stainles steel joints to wood to wood 3/8x10 exclusively. More lively feel.
 

cajunbarboxplyr

Beatem down wit a Varney
Silver Member
My McDermott has a 3/8x10 pin....... it was my first experince with it..I loved it............my Tice has a 3/8x10 as well...... the flat face......wood-2-wood....great feel in the hit......I myself can not stand a steel joint whatsover!! Im sure there are some steel jointed cues out there that has a remarkable hit but Ive yet to try one I liked...including schon, joss, etc...
 

jed1894

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Okay, but what about a 5/16 or other pin that connects wood-to-wood? Wouldn't that be the same? Seems that once the two pieces are connected wood-to-wood the pin would a non-issue. Or, am I missing something? Is the 3/8 pin the only that truly connects wood to wood?

JED
 

jed1894

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
jed1894 said:
Okay, but what about a 5/16 or other pin that connects wood-to-wood? Wouldn't that be the same? Seems that once the two pieces are connected wood-to-wood the pin would a non-issue. Or, am I missing something? Is the 3/8 pin the only that truly connects wood to wood?

JED

Sorry about the ignorant post. I understand that 3/8 pins are mounted differently without a brass insert. But in any event, it seems that once they're connected the wood touches.....???
 

ShootingArts

Smorg is giving St Peter the 7!
Gold Member
Silver Member
Pins

jed1894 said:
Sorry about the ignorant post. I understand that 3/8 pins are mounted differently without a brass insert. But in any event, it seems that once they're connected the wood touches.....???

JED,

I don't really know why but the cue does seem to transmit feel better with a big nonmetallic pin. I like the 3/8" G-10 and am considering having some 7/16" pins CNC'ed out of G-10 or G-11.

Hu
 

CBCornerPockeT

ABC D-Player
Flat faced?

Along these lines, I was wondering exactly what part of the joint flat-faced is referring to? Just trying to understand what makes one flat faced and one not.
 

Double-Dave

Developing cue-addict
Silver Member
CB said:
Along these lines, I was wondering exactly what part of the joint flat-faced is referring to? Just trying to understand what makes one flat faced and one not.

One some cues there is a little piece of metal/wood sticking out of the shaft,
the butt of the cue will have a hole around the pin to accomodate this piece of metal.
That would be a piloted joint.

If the shaft does not have anything sticking out (making it flat) and the butt does not have the hole then it is flat-faced.

gr. Dave
 

Fast Lenny

Faster Than You...
Silver Member
I do like the wood to wood jointed cue with a big pin for 9 ball and some games but prefer a SS jointed cue for straights and actually one hole too.I played with a guys Falcon a week ago fitted with a predator shaft,it was SS joint and the cue played great.Shane in an interview i saw is playing with a Diveney i believe with an SS joint because its what he is used to.I just think its all about preference,to me whether a cue is a player or not comes from the shaft and tip,not saying the joint doesnt have an effect but dont think it will make a cue play like a dog. :cool:
 

BlowFish

Pinoy D-Player
Silver Member
So far, my prefered pin is a G10 3/8x10. I would think that a G10 with any big pin (3/8) and threads 8, 9, 10 or 11 will still hit the same.
 

Bill the Cat

Proud maker of CAT cues
Silver Member
Joint Pin

IMHO, I really think it's all in your head. There are so many other aspects to a cue that influence the hit (wood choice, shaft taper, tip, ferrule, stainless vs. phenolic joint, etc.) that the joint pin is of little consequence. The joint pin's purpose is to hold the cue together. I would challange anyone to hit with two similar cues that have different joint pins and tell me which is which.
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
ShootingArts said:
JED,

I don't really know why but the cue does seem to transmit feel better with a big nonmetallic pin. I like the 3/8" G-10 and am considering having some 7/16" pins CNC'ed out of G-10 or G-11.

Hu
They'd make for great A-joint screw I think.
Great wood adhesion and much less chance of ratteling compared to 3/8 ss.
 

jed1894

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Bill the Cat said:
IMHO, I really think it's all in your head. There are so many other aspects to a cue that influence the hit (wood choice, shaft taper, tip, ferrule, stainless vs. phenolic joint, etc.) that the joint pin is of little consequence. The joint pin's purpose is to hold the cue together. I would challange anyone to hit with two similar cues that have different joint pins and tell me which is which.


This what I thought too. I think I'll try the experiment on some friends.

JED
 

stikapos

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I've recently had a ss 3/8x10 pin replaced with a g10 by Varney. Very nice job, btw. I have to agree w/ Joey in Cali, the improved adhesion got rid of the buzz in the joint. I think it hits better than it did before. Also, the shaft joint hole was drilled, filled (coco) and retapped. What a difference there! No more loose pin! Practically, who knows what the impact of the pin is (other than balance) as I'm thinking that there aren't many who would build two cues exactly the same to test with different pins.

tim
 

joeboxer

WIAWSNB
Silver Member
stikapos said:
I've recently had a ss 3/8x10 pin replaced with a g10 by Varney. Very nice job, btw. I have to agree w/ Joey in Cali, the improved adhesion got rid of the buzz in the joint. I think it hits better than it did before. Also, the shaft joint hole was drilled, filled (coco) and retapped. What a difference there! No more loose pin! Practically, who knows what the impact of the pin is (other than balance) as I'm thinking that there aren't many who would build two cues exactly the same to test with different pins.

tim

Joey was talking about the A-joint, which is where the forearm is connected to the handle of the cue.
But i agree the G10 makes for a nice main joint pin also.
 

td873

C is for Cookie
Silver Member
CB said:
Along these lines, I was wondering exactly what part of the joint flat-faced is referring to? Just trying to understand what makes one flat faced and one not.
Many cue makers built 5/16X14 piloted joints with just a brass insert or a bit of wood sticking out, i.e., the pilot. These are not flat faced, since the face of the joint has a pilot (on the shaft) and a recess (on the butt)


On this shaft, the pilot is rounded, but there isn't alot of brass showing (but there is some wood showing)
Pin2_.jpg


On this shaft, more brass showing (but there is still some wood showing)
Pin4.jpg


On this shaft, there is almost NO wood showing, and only the pilot is showing
Pin1.jpg


A piloted joint:
Pin3_.jpg


Just the butt
pin5.jpg



Here are some examples of some different joints:

An example of radial flat faced joint:
radial_pin.jpg


radial_flat.jpg



An example of 5/16X14 flat faced joint:
5_16_14_flat.jpg


An example of 3/8X10 flat faced joint:
3_10_butt.jpg


3_8_10.jpg


-td
 

jed1894

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I guess it's preference at best. If not, then all custom cue makers (and some factory) would make their cues 3/8 - 10 pin.

JEd
 

Roadkill

Retired Pool Hustler
Silver Member
If you really want a flat-faced joint (which is inferior to piloted), I would probably go with a brass 3/8-11.

But don't over analyze and remember; it's not the size of the ship (pin in this case) but the motion of the ocean. In my opinion, you'd be better off playing with a house cue than many of the available low-cost production cues.
 

jed1894

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Roadkill said:
If you really want a flat-faced joint (which is inferior to piloted), I would probably go with a brass 3/8-11.

But don't over analyze and remember; it's not the size of the ship (pin in this case) but the motion of the ocean. In my opinion, you'd be better off playing with a house cue than many of the available low-cost production cues.

I agree....
 
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