Advice for beginner cues?

[Hungarian]

So far as I know, there is no pool hall in Mountain View. Both Shoreline and California Billiards are long gone. There are a couple in Sunnyvale including a new one that used to be Santa Clara Billiards.

I was at a pool room in Mountain View roughly 10 years ago. Was that the California Billiard Club? It was a really nice place with a bunch of tables and a 12' snooker table next to a really tasty kitchen .

I just looked up pool halls in that area and I see a place in Fremont:

CALIFORNIA BILLIARDS
510-668-1670
40510 Albrae Street Fremont, CA 94538

 

[Bob Jewett]

... I just looked up pool halls in that area and I see a place in Fremont: ...

Yes, they moved. The old location in Mountain View turned into four-story apartments. The land sold for 20 or 30 million in 2014. Hard to have a pool hall in that kind of real estate market.

 

[Eric M.]

As for a break cue, here is some contrarian advice: don't get one

You're not the first to say that. I'd like to go with a softer tip on my cue. Do you think I can learn to break well with a soft tip on a 19 oz cue?
Would it make sense to have a second, heavier cue with a harder tip (not phenolic)? Of course at that point, that's a break cue without a phenolic tip, which is an option on break cues.

 

[realtor1618]

I like the Players PureX HXT cues. I had played with custom cues since the 80’s. I was practicing and I lost a tip on one of my Runde Schons I was shooting with at the time. All I had to shoot with was the PureX cue that I had bought for a break cue. They come with a Kamui Black soft tip. I already smash the break so I was looking for more control and I really broke good with it. When the tip popped off, I shot with the PureX in the meantime and was amazed at how it felt as a playing cue. I got my Schon back with a new tip but it sits in the case now. I shoot with the PureX. As for a break cue I would get a simple J&J cue 18 oz or less. It will save the pounding on the tip of your playing cue.

 

[DeeDeeCues]

You're not the first to say that. I'd like to go with a softer tip on my cue. Do you think I can learn to break well with a soft tip on a 19 oz cue?
Would it make sense to have a second, heavier cue with a harder tip (not phenolic)? Of course at that point, that's a break cue without a phenolic tip, which is an option on break cues.

You will break just as well with a softer tip.

Heavier is not necessarily better for a break cue. It all depends on your ability to accelerate the cue. If you can move a lighter cue faster, the cue likely has more energy that a heavier cue moving slower.

I break with my light cues. I've seen a lot of people change to light cues for playing and breaking after trying them.

 

[Pocket Change]

Heavier is not necessarily better for a break cue. It all depends on your ability to accelerate the cue. If you can move a lighter cue faster, the cue likely has more energy that a heavier cue moving slower.

This is where you need Dr. Dave to apply "Newton's 2nd" to pool!

For someone getting into pool with a budget, IMO a break cue is not necessary. You can use your playing cue or just grab a 21 oz.'r (or so) from the rack for now.

 

[Cue Alchemist]

just get you a players sneaky pete that will play great and break fine too

dont need to spend more than 120

keep it as simple as possible for the time being

Those sneakys are really good for the money.being new to the game, you don't need to spend a furtune. I would say 250 max, for that you can get, a real nice Schmelke (as been mentioned) and a simple J &J break cue, with a phonelic ferrule /tip combo.you get for like 80 bucks,
Keep whatever is left, for when you get really good, and you want to further your game.
You don't need expensive equipment to get good. worry about about that later. All you do need, is to work hard on your game and put in a boat load of practice. And what will probably make more of a difference. Is playing with a nice tip. A triangle, or black ultraskin if you like a layered tip. There is a good starting point.

 

[DeeDeeCues]

This is where you need Dr. Dave to apply "Newton's 2nd" to pool!

For someone getting into pool with a budget, IMO a break cue is not necessary. You can use your playing cue or just grab a 21 oz.'r (or so) from the rack for now.

It's been done a thousand times. I've done it.

 

[Eric M.]

Decided on a David Schmelke. I got an R080, 19 oz., no upgrades (Older model with some defects in the inlay, thus $150). I sort of realized most of their cues in that price range are the same, it's the aesthetics that changes, not performance. No wrap. The wrap is coming off of the Brunswick cue I have / like and that's a bit disappointing as a rewrap plus shipping both ways is more than the cue is worth! I'll skip the wrap for now. I feel like this is going to be a good starter cue that's going to last the time of my playing.

I did get a J&J break cue despite some recommendations to skip it. I wanted to try one and they were on sale for $70. If it's a waste, I'm sure I can recoup most of the cost via craigslist. If not, I've made bigger mistakes that $70.

Thanks for the help pointing me in the right direction.

Eric

 

[Chili Palmer]

Decided on a David Schmelke. I got an R080, 19 oz., no upgrades (Older model with some defects in the inlay, thus $150). I sort of realized most of their cues in that price range are the same, it's the aesthetics that changes, not performance. No wrap. The wrap is coming off of the Brunswick cue I have / like and that's a bit disappointing as a rewrap plus shipping both ways is more than the cue is worth! I'll skip the wrap for now. I feel like this is going to be a good starter cue that's going to last the time of my playing.

I did get a J&J break cue despite some recommendations to skip it. I wanted to try one and they were on sale for $70. If it's a waste, I'm sure I can recoup most of the cost via craigslist. If not, I've made bigger mistakes that $70.

Thanks for the help pointing me in the right direction.

Eric

Both excellent choices. Well done.

 

[Chili Palmer]

You will break just as well with a softer tip.

Heavier is not necessarily better for a break cue. It all depends on your ability to accelerate the cue. If you can move a lighter cue faster, the cue likely has more energy that a heavier cue moving slower.

I break with my light cues. I've seen a lot of people change to light cues for playing and breaking after trying them.

I played with a 20oz for years. After being out of the game for more than a decade I decided I would try a bunch of stuff to see if my taste's had changed. It seemed the lighter the cues the more I liked them. My favorite cue right now is an old bar cue I converted and it weigh's 16oz, my regular player is 17.7 oz, I use the 16 oz to break with if playing with regular cue.

 

[NevadaP]

You're not the first to say that. I'd like to go with a softer tip on my cue. Do you think I can learn to break well with a soft tip on a 19 oz cue?
Would it make sense to have a second, heavier cue with a harder tip (not phenolic)? Of course at that point, that's a break cue without a phenolic tip, which is an option on break cues.

Don't worry about a 'special cue' for breaking. The only reason I don't break with my shooting cue is that I'm concerned about mushrooming the tip sooner with the hard breaks. Just pick up any house cue with a decent tip and fairly straight and use that for your 'break cue' .

 

[measureman]

Decided on a David Schmelke. I got an R080, 19 oz., no upgrades (Older model with some defects in the inlay, thus $150). I sort of realized most of their cues in that price range are the same, it's the aesthetics that changes, not performance. No wrap. The wrap is coming off of the Brunswick cue I have / like and that's a bit disappointing as a rewrap plus shipping both ways is more than the cue is worth! I'll skip the wrap for now. I feel like this is going to be a good starter cue that's going to last the time of my playing.

I did get a J&J break cue despite some recommendations to skip it. I wanted to try one and they were on sale for $70. If it's a waste, I'm sure I can recoup most of the cost via craigslist. If not, I've made bigger mistakes that $70.

Thanks for the help pointing me in the right direction.

Eric

Which pin does the R080 have?

 

[Pocket Change]

Eric, Thanks for posting your selection. I think the Schmelke is a good choice. Please update the thread on how these cues work out for you.

 

[Eric M.]

Eric, Thanks for posting your selection. I think the Schmelke is a good choice. Please update the thread on how these cues work out for you.

Trust me, I'll be excited too! Keep in mind, this will be a beginners perspective. I'll try to keep the fact that it's a new cue from fogging my judgment ... you know, sort of how you feel your car is much faster after you wash and wax it!

 

[Eric M.]

Which pin does the R080 have?

18 thread pin. I mentioned that you guys suggested getting a common joint in case I wanted to upgrade shafts in the future. David said this is a common pin.

 

[Pocket Change]

... you know, sort of how you feel your car is much faster after you wash and wax it!

Oh yeah, that's a FACT, my car even runs smoother after a W & W

 

[measureman]

18 thread pin. I mentioned that you guys suggested getting a common joint in case I wanted to upgrade shafts in the future. David said this is a connon pin.

My Schmelke has a 3/8/10 another common pin.
The one you got has a steel collar for a firmer hit and more forward balance.
Mine has a phenolic collar with wood to wood contact for a softer hit with a neutral balance
The only reason I got this was I liked the look of the black collar better then the steel.
You made a good choice with out spending a lot of money on your first cue.
I got this one

Schmelke BW-107 Pool Cue

Schmelke M2B Bocote Pool Cues are Made in the USA - 20% OFF Sale Now. Schmelke Cues off some of the best values in billiards.

www.billiardwarehouse.com

 

[MitchAlsup]

My advice is to visit a store that sells pool cues.

As your first cue::
a) you must remember this cue will teach you how not to handle a cue by getting all dented up and banged up. Something that no amount of words can properly convey--so the first cue should cost as little as possible and you should have the expectation that it will be banged up and dented to the point of unplayability after 2 years of use.
b) you must understand that you can get used to any {cue weight, cue length, taper, cue tip, balance} So, you goal in your search is to find something that your eye likes and something that your shooting hand (the one other than the bridge hand) also likes. Nothing else maters.

After you have beaten this cue to death over 2 years and you want a new high playability cue, you will have already decided what cue you want going forward and won't need advice from us.

 

[Eric M.]

I got this one

Schmelke BW-107 Pool Cue

Schmelke M2B Bocote Pool Cues are Made in the USA - 20% OFF Sale Now. Schmelke Cues off some of the best values in billiards.

www.billiardwarehouse.com

I like the wrap on that. Hoping I won't regret going wrapless. I liked it on the old Brunswick I had .... until it stated unwrapping. Is there a glue or something I can put on that to keep it from further coming undone? It's not worth sending off for a re-wrap.